Watching various "news" reports, there was numerous mentions of a "simple wooden casket".  Maybe that is how they describe it, but it wasn't ornate, but I didn't think it looked "simple".  Multiple angles with interlocking joints, I could see a lot of craftsmanship in it.  Some people didn't get credit for a beautiful piece of woodworking.

        I'll be replacing the cedar siding that was applied when the huse was built 53 years ago that's showing signs of age. Being wood, it's also been walking the nails out with expansion and contraction from weather conditions. I plan to have the new siding extended over several feet of concrete block foundation.  This will require two inch firring strips applied to the blocks with styrofoam backing between the firing strips spaced sixteen inches apart. The siding company has recommended use of pressure treated lumber for the firring strips. 
I'd purchased some "3/4 X 4 treated material, cut to four foot lengths and planed to half inch thickness. I ran a zig-zag bead of Liquid Nails adhesive between the thin material and 2X4. Applied two F-style clamps and ran about a dozen screws for evan clamping pressure, and let them cure for two days. Today I removed the clamps and started removing the screws. And as soon as I removed the first screw the 1/2" material started to curl away from the 2X4.  The thinner material let go of the 2X4 as soon as the last screw was removed. Some of the Liquid Nails stayed with the 2X4, the rest came with the 1/2" material. Much of the adhesive could be removed by fingers, a small amount required a scraper. The adhesive that came free on its own left nothing behind other than a shadow from the moisture.
Now I'm wondering if the lack of adhesive is typical of pressure treated lumber, or simply that  it's high moisture content. I could go with Titebond water proof  glue between the two layers of treated lumber. I'm concerned, however, about the bond between lumber and the cement blocks. The plans are for a good bead of adhesive and two Tapcon screws. The longest firring strip will be about three feet. Liquid Nails seems to be the flavor offered by most retailers, but is there a different adhesive that would be preferred. I'd like the firring strips-to-blocks to be a permanent marriage.

Back ground: Several days ago, I asked for suggestions on wood filler for hickory.  

Many times, it is annoying when someone posts a question, and the responses do not answer the question.  I had a serious question.  No one told me what I wanted to hear!!!!

Thank you "Gary G" and "fredhargis" for giving me the right answers even though they were the very last thing I wanted to hear.  (For those who don't remember...the answer was dutchman.)

WOODNET is such an amazing place, I fail to understand the loss of popularity.  Thanks to WOODNET and the honest answers of many, I truly enjoy woodworking.

I am looking for the Wide Blade Attachment for my Worksharp WS3000 sharpener.  I am hoping that a fellow Woodnet member has one that they are not using.

Thanks,  Roger

Post deleted momentarily

Not much enthusiasm here for CNC stuff, but I'll kill a few electrons anyway to show the few who do have an interest with the vacuum table prototype I made.  



It's 20 x 30 inches, and made for cheap plywood.  The grid pattern is 1 x 1", 3/16" deep.  The foam tape is just 1/4 x 1/4" weather stripping.  The hole is the port for my Fein shopvac.  It's amazing how much holding force this thing generates.  I absolutely cannot move a piece of stock that covers the top.   That might give those doing router, carving, etc work an idea on how they might hold their projects for unfettered access.  

The gasket is what seals the workpiece to the table.  For smaller work pieces, you install a gasket such that the workpiece covers the gasketed area.  



This 10 x 10" piece also is held so tightly that I can't move it.  My Fein vacuum generates about 3 psi of pressure, which means 300 lbs of force on that 10 x 10" area.  No wonder I can't move it.  



There is a size, however, where the surface area is so small that the holding force won't be enough to resist the cutting forces of the CNC bit.  For those parts, I'll have to use my prior methods of clamps or tape and CA glue.  I'm going to use this for awhile to see how well it fits my needs.  If it works as well as I hope, I'll make one, or two or three that sit side by side, to cover the entire top of my CNC.  

John

I was trying to adjust the table saw fence to get exactly the width of material to match the Leigh dovetail jig settings, getting close but not exactly what I needed. I searched for something that would help, but nothing I found was what I needed. I sent an email to SawStop, describing what I was afer. They don't offer a micro adjuster for their saw, but suggested a product made by Canyon Fire Tools 

https://canyonfiretools.com/shop/ols/pro...ter-3fadef and that looked like what I was after, so I ordered one (and discovered that I also needed to order a Mag Switch for it). Parts arrived today, installation was super simple. Mounted a dial indicator to my saw table top next to the fence and played with the adjuster's knurled knob. It does precisely what I was after, allowing an adjustment as little as 0.001 inch. 

sorry 'bout the duplicate posting, I've tried to delete the "extra" one, with no luck

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I was trying to adjust the table saw fence to get exactly the width of material to match the Leigh dovetail jig settings, getting close but not exactly what I needed. I searched for something that would help, but nothing I found was what I needed. I sent an email to SawStop, describing what I was afer. They don't offer a micro adjuster for their saw, but suggested a product made by Canyon Fire Tools 

https://canyonfiretools.com/shop/ols/pro...ter-3fadef 
and that looked like what I was after, so I ordered one (and discovered that I also needed to order a Mag Switch for it). Parts arrived today, installation was super simple. Mounted a dial indicator to my saw table top next to the fence and played with the adjuster's knurled knob. It does precisely what I was after, allowing an adjustment as little as 0.001 inch. 

Making a Dragon egg from some spalted swamp wood and Alumilite Deep Pour. The egg is finished with Waterlox Gloss.

Hey everyone. I'm liquidating most of my extra woodworking and machinist tools since I haven't done machining for my job in about 12 years. Some of these may be cross posted on other sites like Marketplace but they have occasionally been useful in my wood shop, so I'm posting here also. Prices include shipping in continental US. I'll add more items as I have time to take pictures. Thanks!
I take PayPal, check, (or cash if it's a local pickup). Located in Albion, MI.

SOLD: $30 Jacobs Keyless Chuck 3/8" Portomatic 375 with #2 Morse Taper Shank PICTURES

SOLD: $40 Jacobs 14N Ball Bearing Super Chuck with MT2 arbor and K3 Key PICTURES

Other stuff:
6x2 DMT DIA-SHARP coarse 325 mesh diamond stone. Pretty new...maybe lightly used once. $35 $25 Pictures

SOLD: Hanson 1/8" and 1/4" stamp sets. Letter and number sets new and complete. Also Young Bros 1/16" full letter/number stamp set brand new.
All together $50 Pictures

SOLD: USA made 24" combination square ruler without square head... Fits starrett or mitutoyo. I don't see brand mark but it's probably PEC. 
$50 Pictures

Stanley Bailey 5 piece Sheffield England chisel set. Brand new with minor blemishes. The big chisel will need some grinding to remove a chip. 
$50 $40 Pictures