I have a Karcher G3100XH that has developed a symptom of alternating high and low pressure.
I checked the inlet screen and it's clean. The water supply and hose hasn't changed since the last time it was working with no issues, so it shouldn't be a water supply issue.
I ran the thing without the wand and exit hose attached and it seems to have constant pressure as it shoots the water through the outlet.
I tried the wand with and without a spray head on it. Still has the issue.
I tried using a different wand, that one is from a pw that is rated for lower pressure and it worked with constant pressure, but I wasn't getting as much pressure and eventually the water was coming out of the seems of the wand, but it retained constant pressure. Using it on this pressure washer may have toasted that thing but I got the job done. 

It seems crazy to think that it's not the wand, but I'm not convinced yet as the other wand, allowing less pressure, could be holding back whatever is the issue in the pump that's causing high/low pressure whereas the wand that intended for this machine is not and so maybe there's a pressure regulator thingamjiggy (apologies for getting technical there) in there that's not handling the full allowable pressure of the rest of the system.

I called Karcher and all they did was give me the number to a service shop where I can pay someone to fix it. I need to save $ for my upcoming kitchen remodel project where I can so I need to replace whatever part I need on this thing to myself.

I've been watching a few YT videos, but so far I'm not finding my exact scenario on my model pw. It's a gas powered pressure washer and the videos I'm finding are on the electric models. I don't know if that makes a difference in the pump style.

Anyway, any ideas on what I need to do to fix this?
thanks

We have a light in a stairway- it works when it wants to, no rhyme or reason.
It is controlled with two switches, all new wiring.
The light was bought off Amazon so the quality isn’t the best.
It u I s difficult to get to the fixity, but I did v pull it and checked the connections a while ago.
There is a junction box in the attic I can get to.
My plan is to connect something at the junction box to see if the issue goes away or not.
My suspicion is the issue is in the fixture.
any thoughts?

Have you ever used the box store hardwood cabinet plywoods for kitchen cabinet boxes? How did that turn out?

I remodeled my kitchen in my previous house back in 2018 using better grade hardwood cabinet plywood from places like Hyde Park Lumber and Paxton Lumber (both around Cincinnati, OH).
Back then the cost per sheet (49x97) was a god $80 or so. Now that same stuff runs from about $115-200 per sheet depending on what you want.
Now in my current house of three years I'm getting ready build a new kitchen again.
My income hasn't gone up 25-100% in the past 7 years, so those box store prices look appealing, but I think I'm just gunna bite it and pay the extra for what I know has (better have) the best quality.

Your thoughts?

Apparently lamello has continued to advance the biscuit joiner market.

Not far from me there is a zeta p2 available for a little over $1000

I sold my biscuit joiner after I got a domino. But the Zeta p2 also does these interesting joints for locking hardware.

I don’t think the zeta p2 is worth buying since I already have a domino but I’m open to opinion.

I'm in the process of refurbishing an ol' Sears n Roebuck (Belsaw) planer.
I'm going to need a knife gauge for this thing when I get it running. Any recommendations?
thanks

I recently noticed some serious rot in the molding on a rear window.

   

This window is only four years old, having been installed during a kitchen remodel.  Apparently my contractor took a shortcut in wrapping the vinyl edging around the wooden molding, allowing water in.

         
(both views from above, looking down the side of the window)

I will cut the rotted molding out to replace it, but am wondering what I can do to prevent water from impinging in the future.  Lots of silicone caulk seems like a poor solution, both design-wise and for effectiveness.  Maybe run a 1" eave, vinyl, tin or copper, across the top of the window?  The current vinyl edging isn't just short on that left end, it's also composed of two pieces jointed together in the middle of the top run.

   

Lastly, should I replace the one piece of molding with wood, or is there a better material to use, with which I should re-do all four sides?

   

Greg

Building a serving tray featuring my aunt and uncles vacation home in Fanny Bay, Vancouver Island.
The 11 by 22.5in tray is made from a piece of Honey Locust I had milled from a large tree branch I cut down. On one side, the island surrounded by the text "Vancouver Island" and "Fanny Bay". On the other, their house in a fashion to match a wall hanging quilt my mom made. All cut out using my FoxAlien 4040 XE-PRO CNC Router. The cutouts were filled with Alumilite Clear cast. The tray also features a midnight blue, black and purple river on the live edge bottom of the board which was poured with Aluimilite Deep Pour Resin. After sanding the tray was finished with Myland's sanding sealer and final finish of lacquer.

Very nice HD4 bundle. Includes: HD 4 CNC with Controller, LED pendant,  aluminum gantry cross brace, water cooled spindle with VFD, Dust boot, Next wave spoil board, 7 watt laser, touch plate. Ready to carve. Local pick up only. Located in Nashville, IL $1,299 OBO NEW Price $1,000

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Watching various "news" reports, there was numerous mentions of a "simple wooden casket".  Maybe that is how they describe it, but it wasn't ornate, but I didn't think it looked "simple".  Multiple angles with interlocking joints, I could see a lot of craftsmanship in it.  Some people didn't get credit for a beautiful piece of woodworking.

        I'll be replacing the cedar siding that was applied when the huse was built 53 years ago that's showing signs of age. Being wood, it's also been walking the nails out with expansion and contraction from weather conditions. I plan to have the new siding extended over several feet of concrete block foundation.  This will require two inch firring strips applied to the blocks with styrofoam backing between the firing strips spaced sixteen inches apart. The siding company has recommended use of pressure treated lumber for the firring strips. 
I'd purchased some "3/4 X 4 treated material, cut to four foot lengths and planed to half inch thickness. I ran a zig-zag bead of Liquid Nails adhesive between the thin material and 2X4. Applied two F-style clamps and ran about a dozen screws for evan clamping pressure, and let them cure for two days. Today I removed the clamps and started removing the screws. And as soon as I removed the first screw the 1/2" material started to curl away from the 2X4.  The thinner material let go of the 2X4 as soon as the last screw was removed. Some of the Liquid Nails stayed with the 2X4, the rest came with the 1/2" material. Much of the adhesive could be removed by fingers, a small amount required a scraper. The adhesive that came free on its own left nothing behind other than a shadow from the moisture.
Now I'm wondering if the lack of adhesive is typical of pressure treated lumber, or simply that  it's high moisture content. I could go with Titebond water proof  glue between the two layers of treated lumber. I'm concerned, however, about the bond between lumber and the cement blocks. The plans are for a good bead of adhesive and two Tapcon screws. The longest firring strip will be about three feet. Liquid Nails seems to be the flavor offered by most retailers, but is there a different adhesive that would be preferred. I'd like the firring strips-to-blocks to be a permanent marriage.