Just came across this wallpaper in a Swedish home and I thought some might enjoy seeing it.

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Turning this 11 x 10 in piece of Red Cedar into a Michigan inspired wall hanging. The state and text were cut out on the FoxAlien 4040 XE-PRO. After a coat of sanding sealer so the end grain wouldn't absorb any resin or color, black Alumilite resin was poured into the cutouts with some white swirled through. After sanding from 80-1000 grit, the piece was finished with spray lacquer.

This is not strictly speaking a woodworking question and perhaps some of you that build furniture as a business might be able to help. I am building a small console for my daughter. She is in New York - I am in the SF bay area. Any thoughts on how to cost effectively ship a single piece of furniture? It is about 53”l x 24”h x 18”d. I recognize that your basic moving co. could handle but I suspect that would be quite expensive. Thanks

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/for/d/s...20898.html

Grizzly 15” planer cutter head with blades and bearings. Perfectly operable condition. This is from an older Grizzly model G-1021.

Price - FREE!!

I recently purchased a diamond sharpening plate along with some "honing fluid".  I apply a little fluid, sharpen tool, then what?  Should I rinse off the plate (if so with what)?  I watched some videos online but nobody that I saw addressed what to do after.  

Thanks for your help.

Hello All,

I am spraying a cabinet I am making for a friend with Benjamin Moore's Aura paint. Its good stuff for those who are wondering. Anyway, the color is a fairly deep blue (think the blue on the Greek flag) and all is going pretty well so far. I just finished the second coat which is all I planned to do and I noticed that the base white coat is showing in the seams where the panel meets the rails and stiles in the doors. Argh! I should have looked at the entire door!!! 

Question: Would you all paint the entire surface or just touch up the areas that need it?

I am using the R500 LVLP gun for those who are interested. I don't have too much experience (this is my 3rd or 4th time spraying) but it is going pretty well. I like the LVLP as it does not require as much umpf in terms of CFM and there is a lot less overspray. 

Once I am done painting, I plan to use a Water Based, Satin Based Top Coat. I have a 1.3mm tip as that is the smallest I have and I think its appropriate.

Thanks, Bill

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I made some inlayed boards for a person where the inlay is fairly large.  That brought up some problems that aren't an issue with small inlays.  The large flat area under the bulk of the inlay will prevent the edges from seating properly if there's too much glue, but too little glue results in unbonded areas that sound hollow when tapped.  

To make these, you create a male and a female part.  The perimeters are cut with a V-bit; I used a 90 degree bit which gives edges at 45 degrees.  Since my customer wanted the board to have the grain running at 25, I had to make a blank that had almost twice the area of the 12" square final board.  





After the parts are glued together, and allowed to dry long enough that it doesn't warp when you remove the clamps, the extra part of the male piece is sliced or planed off and then machined flush with the background.  If the board warps (much at all) it is very hard to do that w/o removing too much material in some areas.  When that happens, gaps start to appear along the joints even though the two pieces should mate perfectly over their entire mating surface. There are lots of ways to fail at this, and I found a lot of them. 

Anyway, these are what I ended up with.  Not perfect, but pretty close.  Two are cherry and maple, the other sapele and beech.  Funny how the whale of the sapele/beech board looks larger than those from cherry/maple.  



John

This segment ran recently on the nightly news magazine show "207" where they often showcase a Maine small business. Reading through the comments it is evident a lot of folks are in love with their LN tools. 

https://youtu.be/uBVdgMMPgZU?si=tQi9RClzrmnJNMox

My LN story: I have an early low angle jack that has been my go to for 15ish years. Some time ago I realized the sole wasn't flat so I drove up to Waldoboro (living in Maine has it's benefits) and spoke with one of the experts there. He offered to "square it up" if I could be without it for a few days, of course I agreed. A week or so later the plane was returned via UPS, sole ground flat and sides ground 90* to the sole. No charge. You just gotta love that company. 

Gary

Looking for a part for my Biesemeyer fence on my newer model Unisaw. Backordered in many places and roughly $30 for the "cam foot assembly" which is basically a small strip of metal so I don't understand the price unless maybe they are out of business and there is a short supply of parts.
A search of their location in Mesa, AZ indicates the business is "permanently closed"

Anyone know if they are out of business?

John

So I'm working on building a campaign style folding desk (specifically the one from Chris Schwarz's book).  For anyone unaware of the basic design, imaging a basic table (four legs and aprons).  The front two legs are attached to the front apron with typical M&T joints.  Same with the back two legs and rear apron.  The side aprons are actually four pieces (two on each side), with various hinges to allow the side aprons to fold in, which allows the base to collapse (making it easier for travel). 

I'm having ...issues... with the hinges.  Specifically with screws breaking when trying to install the hinges.  Brass hinges with brass screws (both from Lee Valley, so quality should be good).  I know brass is a bit more of a delicate metal, and I broke one screw when doing a test joint.  So I decided to run to the hardware store and buy some wood screws from there (same thread pattern), figuring that I could drill the pilot hole, use one of these screws, then back it out and use the brass one as the final (figuring this would put less stress on the weaker screw).  This has been a disaster.  I've broken three of the screws (out of 6 for the first hinge).  One of the three broke far enough down that I was effectively able to drill it out.  The other two are stuck. 

I think part of the problem is that I went with longer screws than called for (1.5" instead of 1"), figure this would hold better, and the screws end up being structural (two of the hinges are in end grain, including the first one I've been trying).  The wood is soft maple, and I'm actually using larger than typically what one would use for a pilot hole.  (I initially tried a smaller pilot hole (3/32), and when the first screw sheared I increased the size of the pilot hole.  I'm up to 1/8" and still having this issue). 

Any suggestions?  I'm about at the point where this is going to just be a desk instead of a folding desk (I've got some extra lumbar left over and could just cut out two aprons and attach them to the side via dominoes).  I could use that extra lumbar to remake the two aprons that have screws stuck in them so far, but that is an involved process and also includes roping in a friend to help (which I would prefer not to do).  I'm also not sure how much my daughter cares about the folding feature (going to ask her later today).

But this still doesn't stop the problem I'm having of shearing screws off when installing hinges.  I've had this happen before.  Any suggestions?  Better wood screw to use as the first/lead screw before using brass? (I'm sure the one I got from the hardware store isn't the best quality).  What else?  I'm driving the screws with a screwdriver and pausing every once in a while to allow heat to dissipate.