made this stuff for use on the lathe and even cabriole legs too.




 I would LOVE to have these in my shop for us.  He did a great job and thinking about it too.

This post is in Woodturning also

made this stuff for use on the lathe and even cabriole legs too.

I'm sure this has been asked a million times in these forums, but opinions and experiences change so with that said -

If I go with undermount slides I maximize the drawer width but lose up to 1" in height and if I go with side mount slide I lose 1" in width, but maximize the drawer height up to 1".
I have about 30 drawers and pull out shelves in my kitchen plans, so obviously, as always, I'm looking to get the best bang for the buck.

I've gone cheap on side mount slides before and wasn't happy with certain things like having to pull too hard to open a drawer and self closing mechanisms wearing out. 
I've also paid a little more for better slides a few times and was happy with those.
Unfortunately I don't remember with certainty which brands those were. It was like 7 years ago anyway.
But I also don't want to break the bank over top-priced drawer slides that I suspect are not going to add 2-3x the value for 2-3x the price.

I'll need 22" full extension with soft close and a few 24". Overtravel is nice, but not necessary. 

I'm expecting that the recommendations for undermount will be all in favor of Blum Undermount, but if you have another recommendation I'd like to hear it.
But as for side mount drawer slides, what would you recommend today? again, best quality for a mid-priced slide.
Also, where best do I go for bulk pricing. I'm not sure if 30 pairs (maybe a few more) qualifies for bulk pricing, but in case it does ...

thanks!

I am finishing a white oak dining table and want a clear satin finish. I have used Minwax Wipe-On over the years; my preferred finish. Now, wanting to buy another can of it, all that is available is called “warm satin.” There is a clear product, but it is water-based. 

I’ve not noticed “warm” on the product used previously. Does that mean it is tinted? Or does warm mean something else?

Has anyone used the water-based?  Wouldn’t that raise the grain on wood sanded to 220?

Thanks. 
Peter

After making the first Ohio State University segment bowl (video in card and description below), I decided to make a slightly more intricate version of it. The 11.5x 3in OSU bowl 2.0 is made up of 4 rings from Poplar, Padauk and Wenge. The base features a Padauk "O" with Wenge boarders inlayed into the Poplar. After sanding sealer, the bowl was final finished with Waterlox Gloss.

Selling a group of 5 Veritas Power Tenon Cutters.  Sizes are 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1-1/2" and 2".  Most were only used for a few test cuts, blades are still sharp.  Great condition on all of them.  These sell new together on Lee Valley for $639.  Will sell all 5 for $210 plus shipping from Arizona (85383).  

Pics:  https://imgur.com/a/CN9YQ9Z

Can take/send more pics, if needed.

about 13 months ago

   

   

   

   

   

I think I added all the angles.  They made the dovetail saw with my favorite wood of Masur Birch which if I could buy it I would get a lot of it.  But then price and scarcity of it makes it cost prohibitive.

I think they did a fantastic Job

On my post of what kind of table saw do you have, the discussion kind of drifted toward how to use a slider and its many uses verses a table.  I will be specific, Dereck, Has a Hammer K3. As I under stand it things are done differently on a slider than regular table saw. From some of the pictures I did see some advantage on one over another.

I will be very interested in seeing what people have to say about the advantages of one over the other. For me the limiting decision is cost. Originally I thought footprint would also be an issue but maybe it isn't.

I look forward to the discussions.

Tom

I am making a media center with framed glass doors.  The glass size for the largest door will be 13"x52".  I will use tempered glass.  The door frames will be 2" wide by 7/8" thick cherry.  My question is what should be the thickness of the tempered glass?  I've done a fair amount of searching and it seems that 1/8" tempered glass is recommended for a glass cabinet door of this size  I'd just like to check this out with the experts here to make sure I don't need to go thicker.  I'd like to use 1/8" to keep the weight down but only if it is safe.