I previously posted about a product called Duxxbak which is a waterproof composite decking product and I have concerns about how it would hold up. Now I am noticing there are aluminum decking providers so I got a quote from one of them and amazingly, the price is about the same. 

https://www.nexaninc.com

The product is called lockdry waterproof decking

they make a plain aluminum or powder coated product that is either a solid color or a wood grain. 


I would have guessed the aluminum solution would have been considerably more expensive. In the end, the composite deck companies are double the cost of standard 2x4 pressure treated and this aluminum appears to be the same cost as composite. My application is for decks at a mountain/lakehouse that is in a high moisture environment.

My local Home Depot has a Bluebird 4" wood chipper to rent for $112 per day, but how fast will that work?
The branches I have to shred are up to 2-3" at some points, but mostly 2" and smaller.

I can get a 6" chipper from Arts for $240 per day, compared to HD's 6" for $299 per day.
I would expect that to perform better and probably take less of my time.

I don't have a lot to do, but at some point saving $128 isn't going to be worth the extra time I'm thinking a lessor powered chipper is going to cost me.

Have you used this 4" chipper from Home Depot before? Is it significantly slower than using a 6" chipper?

thanks

Hi woodnetter, today I finished a saw wich I started in Octobre 2024

Fine joiner Saw ultimate edition in nickel silver.







Take Care
Pedder

I am building a bed out of cherry that I have asked a few questions about in this forum. I made a mistake in that I asked what kind of wood she wanted it built from before discussing the final color. Now that most of the pieces were cut out she chose a rather dark stain called American walnut.  Lesson learned - final color determined before cutting any wood. I am using a quality brand and type of stain that I have had good results with in the past. It is not big box store stuff. 

I am having a lot of blotchiness. I read a few things and one suggestion was to sand to a finer grit. I sanded to 400 and I will admit it is significantly better, but still not something I can be proud of. Another thing I read suggested a preconditioner. I am willing to give that a try. I see there is something called a preconditioner at my local Menards. I do not know what it is even made from. I also thought I read about using extremely diluted shellac?  

Have any of you used a preconditioner to minimize blotchiness in cherry?  What did you use and what was the application process. 

Thanks from an extremely discourage woodworker.

I  have a bench grinder where the right side is a small belt sander. I think it can be clogged, because recently it heats up metal faster than before. I have a piece of POWERTEC sanding belt cleaner stick. Can you use that to clean metal from belts, or it can only clean sawdust? If not, how can I clean the belt on my machine?

This is that cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099WM...s_li_ss_tl

I noticed a related thread on the forum but it didn’t seem like anyone who may have used this stuff chimed in and that is what I am looking for. The product is a traditional composit deck board product that is channeled and interlocks to supposedly produce a waterproof deck. Important in my application as I want to create living space underneath.

Conceptually, the idea is great but I am concerned there isn’t enough material(due to the channeling) for the stuff to hold up over time. I am installing it at about 2600 feet in the mountains of western Maryland and it can get pretty cold. It does not get hot in the area.  I am concerned about the normal failures as I would have with any pvc or composite decking product. .(cracking, bowing, expanding/contracting)

Does anyone have any personal experience with this stuff?

"If it were not for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all."  A brand-new flush trim bit lost about a fourth of the carbide, a pattern slipped, tear-out, and the list goes on.  I've only used "stainable" filler before.

The hickory dining table will not be stained; what wood filler do you recommend?

I find that I need something to break down plywood stock. Is there any type of track that is 8 ft long which I could use with my circular saw.

I have been using an 8 ft long piece of Hardie board because it is the only thing I have that has a good straight edge. Is there any thing better? I’ve seen some KREG stuff but it was shorter than 8 ft and it seemed expensive For what it was.

Thanks

I am looking for a SIMPLE furniture design computer program.  A free2D program  would be great.

I just finished this small TV console for my daughter (she needed/asked for it for her apartment).

Dimensions: 53”L x 15”D x 24”H
Case, Base and Top: Afromosia
Door and End Panels: Black Limba
 
The case work was a bit trickier that I had anticipated – but got thru it. Also, took a bit of tweaking to get the sliding doors just right - not too loose; but not too tight (they needed to slide with ease, but not like a race track!). I also incorporated a “floating” top for the piece which I folded back on itself (i.e., bookmatched) from 8/4 stock. I have really come to like working with Afromosia - some call it the poor man’s Teak (although it isn’t that inexpensive – but clearly not a pricey as Teak). Easy to work with, very stable and finishes nicely. The Black Limba panels add a little character.
 
Now I just have to figure out how to get the dang thing to NY! (I live in the SF Bay Area).