about 13 months ago

   

   

   

   

   

I think I added all the angles.  They made the dovetail saw with my favorite wood of Masur Birch which if I could buy it I would get a lot of it.  But then price and scarcity of it makes it cost prohibitive.

I think they did a fantastic Job

On my post of what kind of table saw do you have, the discussion kind of drifted toward how to use a slider and its many uses verses a table.  I will be specific, Dereck, Has a Hammer K3. As I under stand it things are done differently on a slider than regular table saw. From some of the pictures I did see some advantage on one over another.

I will be very interested in seeing what people have to say about the advantages of one over the other. For me the limiting decision is cost. Originally I thought footprint would also be an issue but maybe it isn't.

I look forward to the discussions.

Tom

I am making a media center with framed glass doors.  The glass size for the largest door will be 13"x52".  I will use tempered glass.  The door frames will be 2" wide by 7/8" thick cherry.  My question is what should be the thickness of the tempered glass?  I've done a fair amount of searching and it seems that 1/8" tempered glass is recommended for a glass cabinet door of this size  I'd just like to check this out with the experts here to make sure I don't need to go thicker.  I'd like to use 1/8" to keep the weight down but only if it is safe.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/d/s...09360.html


I’m giving away a Powermatic 66 table saw that needs repairs. It’s a 5hp 3ph machine. No fence, but it does come with a fused disconnect.

In addition to the rusty table, the worm gear that controls blade height is completely worn out. The segment gear it meshes with has some wear too. This could be fixed for $100-$200, or the motor could be pulled and used on another project. I was going to fix it, but ended up buying a running unit instead. I just don’t have the time or space to mess with this one anymore.

I’m located in Santa Rosa near Montgomery Village. Include a phone number and preferred time for pickup in your email if you want a response. Come prepared to move a 500lb machine.

I am refurbishing an old Sears-Roebuck/Belsaw planer. I checked the flatness of the flatbed/table and it's not perfectly flat.
I used a steel ruler as a straight edge (azzuming that it's straight enough for the task), resting it on the table in various directions, and I can see daylight under the edge.
Using feeler gauges it seems to be out of perfect flat between .0004 and .0006 across the width of 12.3” and up to .011 across the length of 18”.
Would you consider that flat enough for a planer, or should I seriously consider having this surface ground to get it flat or flatter?

    The books that I am selling are a fantastic resource for both hand and machine wood working.  They are also very collectable. Only 2 are reprint.
 
1.  Elementry Turning by Frank Seldon  1907. 197 pgs.    $10.00
2.  Short Cuts in Carpentry by. Albert Fair. 1908. 91 pls.  $15.00
3.  Wood Working Machinery. Reprint of the 1880 Edition Soft cover  361 pls. $10.00
4.  Exercises in Wood-Working. by Ivin Sickels. 1889  158 pls.  $15.00
5.  Principles of Wood Working. by. Herman Hjorth. 1948. 445 pls. $15.00
6.  Pattern Making. by James Ritchey  1940  233 pls.  $15.00
7.  Pattern Making. by  James Ritchey  1911  141 pls.  $15.00
8.  The Star Toy Maker. by  Jack Read. 1907  Reprint Soft cover. 64 pls.  $5.00

Priced as is or if you buy the lot $80.00.  Individual books price + shipping (book rate)
PM with questions.
These books were great bedside readers also.

Now that the Project for June has been completed....
   
And serving a purpose...the towel is to protect the finish from the hard plastic wheels that the A/C Unit rolls around on...
   
Also hides the fact there IS a drawer there...

Anyway...I still have about 10' of 1 x 6 Soft Maple leftover...and..these 3 planks of Ash..
   
Yes, there are 3 planks/slabs sitting there...
   
Appears to be Bandsaw Milled from the same section of a log...one right after another...
   
Even the knot lines up...Slab #3 is a wee bit better...
   
However, I do NOT do Live Edge work...so, I might be removing the bark parts...maybe trim the ends a bit..
   
And see about working with Flat Sawn Lumber...
   
Cathedrals?   

Stay tuned...

I was answering a reply from Dereck about no one mentioning owning a slider. And I got to thinking about peoples work shops. 

How many of you have a decided space for a shop? And if so how big is it. 

Right now I am sharing a space with my wife's car in a one stall garage. And to be truthful it is more trouble than it is worth and it certainly limits what I can have to work with. How do you cope? Until recently My shop was in the back of my building and it was 45ft by 45 ft. Before that I always had a shop in the basement and never had to move machinery. Now I am learning how the other half lives.

I am sure a lot of people would like to hear about your shops and how you deal with all the obstacles. I would imagine that space is why so many router tables are incorporated with the table saw. They show up quite often in my post about what kind do table saw do you own.

Tom

The last years I've branched out into making other tools. Chisel of several different types, awls, dovetail makers, but most recently I've introduced cabinet makers turn screws. Parrallel tips made to fit mil spec slotted screws quite well. Largest fits #10, medium size fits #8, smallestl fits #4 and #6 screws.

Ron