Brand new RAS 115 sander with an assortment of Rubin Discs and a Scotch Brite  pad. 

Got it for a crown molding coping job and we ended up using 5/4 flat stock with butt joints.  Missed 30 day rtn window and forgot I had it actually.   Just turned up during a organization binge.

A used one ( not lightly either) just sold on fleabay a week ago for over $700 !   A new one sold November for $1395 !     Also in Nov. was a mint, but barely used one that fetched $1030.   Even the rode hard/put up wet versions are commanding $700.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4...&LH_Sold=1

I'll entertain offers and prefer local pickup.  I will take it to a shipper of your choice, but you'll have to pay in advance and deal with UPS/FedEx yourself for packing / insurance and delivery.   Pretty sure I have a fitted box for the systainer, but it should be double boxed, padded , ect….

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https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/zip/d/s...09659.html

What is the earliest reference to the spindle roughing gouge?  I'm looking for a magazine article, a textbook or a catalog cut. Include anything that recommends using a gouge ground straight across for roughing.

I was deeply saddened to learn that Bob Flexner, author of "Understanding Wood Finishing" and other books and videos, passed away on Dec. 29th, 2024.
I learned about it from the newspaper this morning. I live in Norman, Oklahoma, as did Bob, and the Norman Transcript had his obituary this morning. Here is a link:
https://obituaries.normantranscript.com/...1092531559
I had met Bob and knew him slightly. I don’t remember exactly when we were introduced, but it was after his book came out. I think we were introduced by a mutual acquaintance.
When I met him, I was in charge of the Exhibits Construction Shop for the Sam Noble Museum of Natural History in Norman. One of my responsibilities was to design and build conservation-grade exhibit cases for the Museum, which was going to be moving into a new building. I had a lot of questions about finishes and finishing, and Bob helped answer them. He was always very free with his time and knowledge.
I would also see him around town occasionally. Bob was a lover of classical music, as am I, and we used to see each other at concerts in Norman, put on by the University of Oklahoma.
I was able to attend the  International Woodworking Fair (IWF) in Atlanta on two occasions. Both times, Bob and I ran into each other. He joked about living in the same town, but having to go to IWF to see each other!
I’ve always appreciated Bob’s books. He did a great service to the woodworking community by researching and de-mythologizing wood finishing.By explaining the “why” as well as the “how” of finishes and finishing techniques, he helped us understand finishing.
He will be greatly missed by the woodworking community and all who knew him.

Rick W

[font="Times New Roman", serif]Does anyone know anything, history of this lathe?[/font][font="Times New Roman", serif] Laguna REVO 12|16 Midi Lathe[/font][font="Times New Roman", serif] I’m thinking of buying it for home hobby work. I’m going to add the [/font][font="Times New Roman", serif]Laguna 20" Extension as well as the 16 in outboard attachment. Thanks all for your input and help. [/font]

Hey there, 
I am tiling a shower that is exactly 36"x48".  The tiles that I am using are 23.62 inches long.  With a 1/16" grout line between them, there would be a 0.35" gap between the tile and the side walls. The tiles are also 0.35" so with a 0.25" bed of thinset the tiles on the side walls would be proud of the back wall by 0.25".  Is this enough overlap?
The other option is to tile the side walls first.  I know that this is undesirable for the grout line layout.  My tile and grout are both shades of white so I don't think that it would be glaring. 
Thanks for your input.

I tried to reply to a post in tools above and could not. I waited a few hours and came back to find that same post already had 3 other replies and still won't take mine. Here's the message i get:
   

There is a lot of dust separator up grades on YouTube lately. It is probably because I watch them, when they appear but I am not sure.  One was complaining that he got tired of having to empty the plastic bag, so he  put on  an after market cyclone separator, which dropped the chips into a plastic bucket.  My dust collector  separates the chips from the fine dust and I do have to empty the bag ever so often. If the same amount of work is collected from each, wouldn't the ( bags-buckets ) need to be emptied just as often. What am I missing? Other than adding the cost of the cyclone separator, the bucket and all to other expense of making the change over.

The exhaust is then sent to a big pleated filter and the fine dust is dropped into a bucket. The argument is, it can capture finer partials ( hazardous to your health ) and improves air flow. But when the filter fills up it reduced airflow. When my shop vac, which has a pleated filter fills up with fine dust I loose suctions. And I have to clean the filter.  please read the rest before jumping in.

The bag on my dust collector is maybe 5 micron but as the holes in the bag are filled up it becomes a finer filter, where is the trade of or what is the difference? Next , Yes I do have to hit the bag loosen the particles ang get them to drop into the bag. but the pelted filter can also fill up and need to be cleaned. Where or what is the trade off? The dust drops down into my plastic bag or it drops into a bucket. So the only difference I see is the added expense of a pelted filter, added parts needed and a bucket and the time spent installing it.

Some dust collectors have the pelted filter and an arm that will help keep the filter clean. It is a great upgrade from what I have, but I do not see that feature on the other up grades. 

Before you jump all over me. Fact, no one will ever be able to collect all the dust, fine or not so fine, produced in the shop. An air cleaner really has a place when it come to fine airborne dust. I consider it a different problem it should be address in a different post altogether.

I have a trash can separator hooked to my two planners. It is by the planners and the dust collector in in the basement. It is easier to empty the can than it is to go up and down the stairs dragging the chips up the stairs. And the 20 trash can separator works just fine for the purpose. 

Tom

Whether I empty to barrel or the plastic bag the process is the same. Whether or not I shake out my upper bag or clean a pelted filter. it still should be done when the large partials are removed. All I see is a lot of added expense, with out much, if any, gain.

Or am I missing anything?

Tom

Our pastor's wife has requested a Hickory Trestle Dinning Table; she likes the color of hickory.  Finding hickory in our area is no problem...except for anything larger than 8/4.

I need a source for 5" x 5" and 4" x 4" hickory

or

a substitute for hickory that beams are available.

Yes, we are considering glue ups, but prefer solid beams.

I look forward to your suggestions.

Have a 46 gallon tank tucked away under the stairwell that is not easy to get to. 10 years old. The tank. Not me. Anyway have not flushed regularly and thought it was time as it's not working very well at all.
Can only get a trickle out of the hose attached to the drain. 
Going to put  a new tank in but have to get this one out and it is obviously too heavy with water in it. Trying not to make a mess. Only room for one person. About 8 feet is what I need to move it to get it out of the closet.
Have seen where folks have used a washing machine hose because they have two female ends. Then I'll attach enough hose to get outside and blow some compressed air to try to open things up. Other ideas? You think this could work?
We still have some hot water so going to have the new heater ready to go before I try this. 
Regular flushing next time.
Appreciate any ideas. Thanks!