Probably one of the most beautiful pieces I have made. 9 by 3.5in vase made from a Blue berry bush root and Alumilite clear slow resin. Finished with Acks wood paste and General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish

Someone suggested to me that I look into a soft start attachment for my heat pump to make it easier on the generator.   From looking into it it seems that it slowly ramps things up so there is not a surge when the heat pump starts.    Is it worth doing?  Would it affect anything under normal operation?  I am comfortable around electricity, less so on the control side of a heat pump.  It seems that looking this would be installed on the run windings and run capacitor.  How complicated would it be for me to install?

Photos in the link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iVmpMXyutkD7QELx7

Veritas Large Shoulder Plane, has a PMV-11 blade, I used it a couple times on a couple tenon pieces and it's sat in my cabinet. I have the original box some place as well. Asking $220 + Free shipping to the lower 48

A 10 year old Frigidaire. Twice now the fridge has spontaneously stopped running, interior lights don’t turn on and it throws a “”SY CE” error on the control pad. That supposedly means a communication problem between the control pad and the main board. CW is either the control pad, the main board or the wiring between them is faulty.

Here’s the gremlin part: power cycle the fridge and it stays off. Even the control pad shows no sign of life. But leave it alone and eventually the fridge will start running (cooling) while the control pad remains dead. Give it a while longer and the control pad comes back to life and the interior lights miraculously work normally.

The first time this happened was in early Oct. The second end of Dec.

I’ve visually inspected the circuits and there’s nothing obviously blown or burnt.

I’ve got a new board on hand now. Next time the gremlins reappear I’ll put it in.

Gotta love intermittent electrical faults.

-Mark

Colleagues: for some reason I am looking for a Stanley #2. Or other manufacturers' equivalent. But I really do not know much about older planes.

Have any idea where I might find one? I looked on Ebay and could not discern one #2 from the others. Ball park  price range these days? Realize that some rust/corrosion can becleaned up and knick in blade can be ground/sharpened out. But a flat sole, no corroions/rust on body, blade no deep knicks, rust, etc. are what I first look for.

Thanks for any information.

The woodshop's work bench does have such a shelf..
   
Where I stash the planes that I think will come in handy during a Project.   There is a Stanley No. 6c, Type 17 that stays in the bench's tool well, but down on the shelf there is a second No. 6c...
   
A Type 9, I think...next?
   
These 2 usually sit near the Leg vise end of the shelf...A Stanley No. 3, Type 15...and a Stanley No. 4-1/2, Type 11.   Easy to grab and put right to work....I seem to grab the No.3 most of the time

Also on that shelf?
   
This is a Millers Falls No. 15, Type 3...uses a 2-1/4" wide iron...this is standing in for a Stanley No. 5-1/2, Type 11, that is taking a break, for now, it has the 2-3/8" iron.

I do have a "normal size" jack plane...
   
Not sure what Type it is..as it is an Ohio No. 0 5 Jack.....it is taking it's turn in the "Rotation"  of the rest of the jack planes...

Also tucked away on the shelf...
   
Old Heft & Hubris himself...Stanley No. 8c....

Also tucked away behind these bigger planes..
   
Millers Falls No. 8, type 2...same size as the Stanley No. 3, and about the same age...also back in a corner..
   
Is a Millers Falls No. 9, Type 3 (WW2 era) that is the same size as my Stanley No. 4 planes. 

There is one other plane that is always sitting on my bench..
   
Mutt & Jeff?   Stanley No. 60-1/2..The Cordovan Low angle Block plane...


All these planes are sitting where I can just reach down and grab whatever size I need for a task on the bench..

Anybody else keep a set pf planes handy...?

For a bunch of reasons, I need to connect my electric dryer to a fresh air input source. The dryer has the typical 4 inch exhaust coming from the dryer but I am wondering what size input duct I can get away with. it would seem reasonable that if there is a 4 inch coming out, it would require a 4 inch coming in but in my situation, it would be much easier if I could go to a 2 or 3 inch input pipe due to the location of where I need to run the input. If I go less than a 4 inch input, am I basically going to “starve” the dryer and for instance increase/double my dry time?

I’m wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and if so, how you’ve resolved it?

The Ridgid table saw, R4520, which I bought in Feb ‘24 has demonstrated its flaws.
The trunnion design, IMNSHO, is seriously stupid!
When I first started using this saw, it was smooth as silk.
The adjustments are accurate and it’s powerful enough as my TS at the smaller shop.
However, for the trunnion, they use an aluminum frame with a thin metal plate and a loose bolt to guide the vertical movement.
The plate bends; the bolt moves around and roughs up the aluminum and so, after less than 1 year use, the vertical movement needs repair—hopefully, not replacing.
I’ve removed the back, completely cleaned it, and bent the plate back. The plate is on the thin side and too flexible for its use.

I haven’t spoken to Ridgid yet although I did speak to their local service/repair center. He said the plate is discontinued. Jeez.
My problem is going to be the fact that I bought the saw from my BIL—he had it several years and never used it but it’s now out of the original warranty and I didn’t register it. If he did, which I doubt, I might get lucky.

Interestingly, if the saw blade is tilted first, the vertical movement seems unimpeded. It only seems to be a problem at 90 degrees or so.
So, it’s a big hassle but at least it’s not completely out of commission.

What is the photo size or pixel limit to post a photo in Woodnet?

I have an old Record No.53 woodworking vise that's been installed on my workbench since I made it back in 2001. Recently the screw stopped functioning properly. I found out that the pin on the back of the screw shaft had sheared clean off. Once that was gone, the retaining plate was able to fall off. I removed the screw and saw the sheared off pin Stull embedded in the end of the screw shaft. I tried punching it out, but it work not budge. I thought, "maybe the pin is tapered?", and tried to work out from the other side. But that didn't seem to budge it.

The pin is cleanly sheared so it's flush with the OD of the shaft on both sides. Otherwise, I'd measure the exposed portion to determine if it's tapered. I'm at a loss what to do. I'd like to try applying heat and then give it another shot. But I'm afraid of breaking the end of the shaft.

Any ideas?