I had this saw sitting in a drawer waiting to be finished, someday. SO Someday came and I decided to finish it up, but I already have several 16ppi dovetail saws. So this one is for sale. $300.00

20250122_144548 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
Classic style in Walnut, 16ppi dovewtail by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
Sorry for the blurry pics, but I was freezing my butt-ox standing outside taking the pics.

Oh yeah, It is 12" x 2" canted x 0.020" plate. 16 ppi x 6* rake x 0 * fleam. I am 30 minutes N.E. of St.Louis, if you feel like a road trip, conversation and a cup of Maxwell house. I may even throw in some french vanilla creamer

I haven't posted for a while as I have been busy working on this run down circa 80s shack I live in. Taking a short break and decided to get to a couple of saws that have been hiding in a drawer as well as making a couple of saws for my last customer that has been quite patient waiting for me to make him a saw or two. If I can remember how to post this stuff I will give it a whirl.
First up is a triple loop dovetail saw in resin infused birds eye maple burl. 12" x 2" canted x 0.020" at 18 ppi.
20250122_144133 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
20250122_144142 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
20250122_144206 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
2nd up is a 12" carcass saw from the same piece of wood. 12" x 3" x 0.025" 14ppi x 15* rake x 25 fleam. I made a mistake rasping and had to make the front bolt head 1/16" smaller than normal to save it.
20250122_144245 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
20250122_144251 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr
Not the best pics in the world but you get the idea. These are all from maple burls I infused a few years ago, that were sitting on a shelf patiently waiting. These will be my personal saws,( among many )

I upgraded my DW 788 scroll saw jaws with the Pegasus set. There's nothing wrong with these - I just wanted the quick release lever. 

$15 plus shipping sound reasonable?

   

Vintage/Antique LITTCO Woodworking Vise No. 165 Corner Bench Clamp-On Vise Littlestown PA

Nice old LITTCO Clamp-On corner vise. Still retains most of its original  paint. The vise opens and closes nice and smoothly with no issues at all. The Clamp-On screw also works great too.

$ 20.  plus discounted shipping

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Building a 27x55in red oak river coffee table with Alumilte deep pour resin

Pics in the link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ccrsFip13UMVNLq47

1. Knew Concepts 5" Fret saw with pack of skip tooth Pegasus blades, Asking $90 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

2. 2x Crucible card scrapers, Arno/Crucible sold burnisher, Benchcrafted carbide wider scraper. Asking $110 + Free shipping for all to lower 48.

3. Sterling Toolworks saddle tail 1:5 dovetail ratio. Asking $70 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

4. Veritas Large Router plane, comes with blade holder (no extra blades), spear point and 1/2" blade and the fence. I have the original box as well. Asking $165 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

I decided to look for an old Dewalt with 24" of crosscut capacity.  It will eliminate the need to use my giant TS sled when crosscutting panels wider than the 14" my other RAS's can muster.  With a 14" blade I'll be able to cut most molding vertically, too.  With some sage advice from Doug Tapper, I looked for a medium arm GA, and found one for a good price, but 7 hours away.  Oh well, I went 5 hours for my MiniMax J/P, what's another 2 hours.  

Last week I took my trailer to Philidelphia to get it.  It was being used in a cabinet shop for rough cutting stock, a fate many an old Dewalt is tasked with.  Great guys running this business making high end cabinetry, Philidelphia Woodworking should you care to see what they do.  The saw looked to be in as good a shape as the photos they had sent me.  3 hp, single phase motor on it.  It was the last machine in the 9000 sq ft shop.  They are moving to a new 15000 sq ft facility and won't need to saw anymore because they bought a new upcut saw with automated Tiger Stop system.  They sold the saw for $300, which I thought was a fantastic price.   

I cut the cord near the motor and pulled the motor and carriage off the arm and put that into my car.  I also blocked the arm with a piece of wood and strapped it to the table, and wrapped the arm and column with stretch wrap.  We drug it over to the loading dock and got it onto my trailer for the trip home.  Here it is just across the street from their shop.  



It was an uneventful trip home other than a couple of the new straps I bought from HF kept loosening.  After retightening them twice I took them off and replaced them with some other ones I had with me, not quite as stout but at least they stayed tight.  Once home I slid the saw off the trailer into my garage and began the disassembly process in order to get it down into my basement shop.  

I jacked the arm up off the column with a scissors jack.  


 
Once it cleared the column I lowered it as far as I could and then picked it up.  It weighed far less than I anticipated, fortunately, maybe 60 lbs.  Getting the column out of the base turned out to be the hardest challenge.  It slid easily in the base casting except for the last couple of inches.  I ended up tipping the table over, removing the column and base casting from the table, and then whacking the base casting with a rubber mallet to get it off.  



The legs are bolted to the table, which was important, because together they would be too large to fit through the doorway to my basement.  



So, it's apart and the parts are all down in my shop now ready for reassembly and then a new table.  Stay tuned. 

John

The lead screw controlling the in-out action of the ram in my vintage Delta Heavy Duty lathe is bent.

The bend is a couple of degrees off straight and it binds up tight in the ram after threading in about an inch. I think it should go in much further. I suspect some of the female threads may be galled and that led to the bending.

I plan to try carefully bending the screw back to straight in a typical 3 point bending set up with a bit of copper or aluminum pipe over the threads. Maybe a little heat too. I’ll chase the female threads with a tap.

If anyone has a better idea for straightening a 1/2-13 LH lead screw, let me know.

Can only blame this on operator-error but I do wish Delta had used a larger diameter screw with a stronger thread, like an Acme screw.

-Mark

Looking for some design direction/assistance for a console/sofa table with an top-folding leaf looking to pair with industrial cast iron legs. The table will be approx 5'-6' long, and around 12" wide (expandable to ~2'). Table top is similar in function as in the link below, except only 1 leaf not 2. I like the idea of straight/telescoping supports, but not sure how to implement and still provide adequate support. Pivoting wing-arms would work, but unlike a traditional drop leaf table, they will be visible when the expansion leaf is stored on top. I am sure there is a way to disguise them, if there are no other options...Would/could drawer slides work?
Thoughts??? 
TIA
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/ny...21379.html

Brian

Hi All! I'm building a bathroom vanity that will fit tightly between two walls. The carcass is 3/4 ply and the doors will overlay the carcass but there will be no other face frame. My concern is whether my doors will open entirely. I know they will hit the wall at 90 degrees - and before that depending on the handle. I plan to use concealed hinges. Am I correct that if I use a partial overlay hinge I can get enough room to open these doors? If absolutely necessary I can put a little filler strip between the cabinet and the wall to allow more door swing, but I'd like to avoid or at the least minimize that as much as possible. I'd appreciate some real world advice. Thank you!