Greetings all, after a very extended break from the shop I'm getting back into it. Because of my asthma I need a good PAPR. Because of the hardware in my neck I just cant wear the my trend anymore. The 3M just isn't in the budget. I'm not that concerned with the impact part, just the weight and airflow. I wear glasses and have a beard so that's a factor.
I know this Peek gets pretty good reviews but were talking 3M money.
https://pekesafety.com/collections/power...7249226021

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this peek system. 
https://pekesafety.com/collections/power...0112927013

Any advice or budget friendly options would be appreciated.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/o...53839.html

I have a Stanley Bailey 7C for sale.

The japanning is 95% there, there is a small section missing at the toe which can be seen in one of the photos, and also a small chip in the lever cap. The wood is rosewood and there are no cracks or anything just normal wear and tear. I showed it apart so you know everything works as it should asking $110 plus shipping. Shipping will be over $25 no thanks to postal rates going up but if there is any cost above $25 I will pay it.

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking.

Tom

Working on the set of kitchen cabinets.
Two sections they went with 1/4 sawn WO.
On the Island, they went with walnut.

I shop cut the veneer, sanded them to a hair more than 1/16"
I used Unibond 800 glue.
I used 7 ply 1/4" plywood as the core and of course veneered both sides.
I book matched the veneer.

The oak door panels came out great, nice and flat.  With it being 1/4 sawn, that did not surprise me.
The walnut panels with highly figured front face veneer and just normal veneer on the back came out of the vacuum press looking good.
It did not take long before the walnut panels started to bow and warp.
In both the width and height the panels cup towards the figured face.

One set of panels approximately 17" wide cup enough that if you put a straight edge from side to side, there would be almost a 1/2" gap in the middle.
I tried to put a panel on a jig that bent the panel the opposite of the bow.  Left the panel in there for 2 1/2 days.
When I removed it, it was flat for about 4 hours!

Some door panels are 18" wide and 28" high.  They need to be flat!

First of all, I can not understand why this happened.  Any speculation?
All I can come up with is I should have made the veneer maybe closer to 1/32" instead of the 1/16".
Should I have used MDF instead of plywood?

Second, any good ideas that would flatten the panels permanently?

Any information or help will be greatly appreciated!

Toney

had my heater maintenance done today, they found that the outdoor unit an American Standard Gold series heat pump was drawing 134amps on startup when it should be pulling a little over 100.

They suggested a hard start be installed.


After they left, I got to thinking if its drawing that much over what it should be, isn't that indicative of some other problem?  A hard start is just masking that issue?

or is a hard start the thing to do?


it seems to work just fine.

Photos in the link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7BgNfbofLxYt79Ju8

1. Lie Nielsen No.4 Bronze with original box, used a few times in great condition no dents or dings. - Asking $460 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

2. Lie Nielsen Flat Boggs Spokeshave can't find the box, again, used a couple times no dents or dings. - Asking $140 + Free hipping to the lower 48.

3. Lie Nielsen Curved Boggs Spokeshave with original box, don't think I've ever used this. - Asking $170 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

4. Lie Nielsen Honing Guide, with Long jaws, Chisel Jaws and screwdriver, used the guide a few times but still perfect shape. - Asking $225 for all + Free shipping to the lower 48.

5. Lie Nielsen SD-4 Chip Breaker screwdriver like new. - Asking $35 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

6. IBC Pinnacle Blade for Lie Nielsen no.62 Low Angle Jack plane. Never used. - Asking $45 + Free shipping to the lower 48.

Because...this rack is not working out..
   
Except...that rack only has a single, SMALL hinge at one end ( red circled area) and...
   
You need a pair of Kevlar Gloves to reach in there and pull a plane out...

Since I went out and bought a stack of "Lumbah"..
   
Maybe I can build a box to house the 11 Mortise Chisels...and re-use the rack? 
   
First things first....this is way too long and way too FAT....too long is easy enough to fix..
   
One half will be for the 6 Skinny Mortise chisels..
   
1/4" and narrower ones.   Trim any excess off the ends.   The 5 fat chisels?
   
Did not need 6 holes...square to mark where to cut off the excess.   "Plan"?   Is to hang this rack on the inside of a case's door....so, it CAN be a bit shorter than the other one, which will get attached to the back of the case. 

That takes care of the Length problem...next up...weight watchers for Racks..
Stay tuned...

Making a 14in Hello Kitty inlay bowl from poplar and Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast resin.

I used to store them on top of a cabinet in a space below a drawer, but sometimes they'd get pushed back and I'd have to fish them out.  So I made this:

it is simply 2 pieces of scrap maple plywood, dadoed out on the inside and then sandwiched together.  You'll notice that the dadoes chipped out some of the plywood when they exit the blade.  Maybe I'll take it down and run those edges thru the TS to clean them up....someday.   Or I could cap it with some scrap cherry laying around.  But it is a shop fixture so there's that.  

There's an extra slot in case I ever make an newer insert.

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Anyone have one of the Rikon dust extractor?  I want to use one for my bandsaw.  Wondered how noisy it is and how well you think it will work for a single machine?
Thanks,
Lonnie