I am having a problem with my paint gun taking a long time to begin spraying.

I have a Graco 3-stage HVLP system from probably sometime in the nineties.  I am no expert at spraying.  I am just a hobbyist who uses it a half dozen time per year.  I have found one precatalyzed lacquer finish that works well for me and I use the system for exclusively for that one finish.  Recently it started requiring me to hold the trigger for close to 30 seconds before it will start spraying, but once it gets going everything is fine and back to normal.  I should probably add that I might not have to hold the trigger for that long, it might just need to have the turbine on for that long.  It just works out that I don't turn the turbine on until I am ready to spray so the trigger typically gets pulled within a few seconds of turning it on.  If I am spraying multiple things and I set the gun aside to move items around and leave the turbine on, then it will spray immediately for the second item.

I have cleaned the gun thoroughly.  I have replaced the gasket between the cup and the gun.  I am certain that the curved tube from the gun to the cup is completely clear and I believe that is where the air comes from to pressurize the cup and force the finish up into the gun.  I have snugged up the packing around the needle.  My best guess is that it is taking that long to pressurize the cup, but I don't know where else to look.  Or maybe the problem has nothing to do with pressure to the cup and I am looking completely in the wrong places.  Anyone got any advice?

   

   

Making a bowl with some rotten ***** Willow that was stabilized with cactus juice and then cast in Alumilite Clear slow resin.

Happy New Year.  I hope you all have a healthy and happy 2025.  

I haven't gone to bring it home yet, so I hope there are no disappointing surprises when I see it in the flesh, but I bought this Dewalt GA medium arm saw yesterday for $300.  





3 HP, single phase.  The crosscut capacity is over 24", which is why I wanted it.  It is going to replace the big heavy tablesaw sled I now use for cutting wide parts.  Of course, it will do all the other things RAS's are so good at.  And with its nearly 4-1/2" depth of cut it might replace my chopsaw for vertical miters.  

John

Did woodworking for years and posted here quite a bit years ago, but never in woodturning.  Sold my shop in 2018 and have done nothing productive except travel ever since.  Always wanted to do round stuff but wife had me doing so much flatwork I never got around to it until now.  New lathe planned after taking a turning class at Rockler as a Christmas present.  So, recommendations wanted for carbide turning tools, to be applied vigorously to wood this spring.  Or anything else knowledgeable people want to share.  Thinking of the variable speed Jet for a lathe.

BUCKTOOL 1HP 6.5AMP Wall-mount Dust Collector with Remote Control, with POWERTEC 70334 Dust Filter Bag for Wall Mount Dust Collectors, 1 Micron

New price $223.58 Selling for $130
Items are new in unopened box/bag.

From the web site

TEFC Induction Motor: Benefited from the Totally Enclosed, Fan-Cooled cover design and advantage of the induction motor, our motor is significantly more durable, lower noise, and maintenance-free than the brushless motor, if you are not an occasional user, and want a shop dust collector for woodworking, this is the one for you

POWERFUL MOTOR: The dust collector is equipped with a 1HP powerful induction motor with 6.5AMP 550CFM airflow, the steel impeller supply 550 CFM airflow

TWO WAYS TO USE: Our dust collector can be mounted on the wall and it has wheels with a brake for easy movement and fix position

BETTER WITH 2 MICRON DUST BAG: To ensure a better experience, we suggest matching with our 2-micron filter bag when you use this dust collector

INCLUDED REMOTE CONTROL: This updated dust collector has a 49 FT remote control so that you can control your dust collector more conveniently and improve your work efficiency


Included Powertec 1 micron filter bag

INCLUDES: 1-Micron Filter Bag 14” in diameter and 24” long with a 5-1/2” diameter x 4" long neck (Measured in inflated condition.)

FUNCTION: Serves as a premium replacement bag with an upgraded design, along with similar size and capacity specifications as the OEM dust collector bag for the POWERTEC DC5370 Wall Mounted Top Dust Collector

Features: A 1 micron filter bag (collecting 99% of fine dust particles); a clear window to check dust levels; and a bottom zipper for easier dust disposal.

QUALITY: Made with an ultra-thick, polyester felt material that’s able to withstand dry heat applications, along with everyday wear and tear

COMPATIBILITY: Designed to work as a top dust filter bag for most popular power tool dust collection systems such as Grizzly, Shop Fox, Rockler, Delta, and Wen (Work with the models having an opening from 5" to 6")

This will be too expensive to ship so pick up in Fort Wayne only.

For some reason pics aren't displaying. Amazon links are
Bucktool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LKD...UTF8&psc=1
Powertec https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BD7Z...UTF8&psc=1

Although he had a "blended" shop with both power tools and hand tools (and is much more widely known for his Habitat work), I thought it appropriate to note his recent passing, and remind everyone that he made a lot of furniture in his time, and knew a lot of famous WWers, like Maloof and Frid. A few links:

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/wn201.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z20TKseN-1I

Annapolis Graduate, Submarine Officer, Governor, President, Nobel Prize Winner, Habitat Champion, Peanut Farmer, Woodworker and simply a good man. RIP Jimmy. . . .

The tip first. For many years I have used a scribble of candle wax on the soles of my hand planes, and it has always been like changing up a gear. That is not the tip. A few months ago I decided to try an oiled rag in a can, ala Paul Sellers. No actual can, but a plastic jar, and a rolled up microfibre cloth with mineral oil. I like this! It is going up another gear. That is not the tip. For the past month I have been building bedside tables (three of them), with quite a bit of dovetailing. When chopping dovetails the chisel life is extended with a rub over the oiler. What I can add is that the mineral oil does not affect the glue adhesion. That is still not the tip! Okay, so here is the tip: I decided to wipe the teeth of the dovetail saw and crosscut saw on the oiler .... man, what a surprise ... the saws slid through the wood effortlessly. And less effort also translates to greater accuracy. 



The saws are both thin plate saws, one 16 tpi rip and the other 15 tpi crosscut, both of which I made. 

Now for the tool. It is cheap, $20, the Compass Rose Vise Block.  Quick to set up and easy to use. Self-explanatory ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

I have .LEESON electric motor that I replaced the bearings on. 5hp single phase as I put it back together I noticed that the rear bearing looks like it is not seated fully. After doing some research I found out that the shaft has to move that is way they put the wavy washer in both ends. But it seems to me mine is a little more it’s about a 1/8 to 1/16 inch. Is this normal?

I have a Delta DJ20 Joiner I would like to sell.  I am the second owner, had it about 12 years but it is too big for my new shop and I rarely use it as the type of projects I do has changed over the years. The knob to loosen the fence is gone, I intended to make one for it but never got around to it.  Also has the guard, rabbeting ledge, some spare knives and a jointer pal jig.  I think it's obvious, but pickup is required.

$550 with the mobile base included.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
           

I know most plane makers made many different models or revisions to their planes over time. Often referred to types. Stanley types are the best documented so it would seem most collatable. And it seems to be a very important topic here on this forum.

I hate to pop a lot of people's bubble, but I really do not care what type it is, nor do I want to spend the time trying to decide if the front knob is correct for that particular type of plane. 4, 5,a nd 6s go around here at flea markets for between $1 and $30 so there is no real collectors value. Notice I said around here, It could be different depending on what part of the country you love in. So let me be clear I could care less as to what type my plane is. I have some Stanley's but my collection is Keen Kutter K series planes which were not typed

I want to pick up my plane and use it to cut shavings and in the heat of using it, the type doesn't enter in. How ever there are a few things I look for. and a study of what type doesn't enter in. First thing I look for is if it has a frog adjusting screw or not. If it has one, it means it has machined seats. If no screw just keep walking unless you like the looks of the knob and tote and the price justifies new wood for your plane. A lot of really cheap planed have a cast surface on both the frog and plane body. Next I look to see if it has a keyhole lever cap or a Kidney hole lever cap. If it has a keyhole lever cap it means that it is an older model or lower numbered type and if the asking price is reasonable it is worth taking a good hard look at it. Getting to this point shouldn't take more than 15 seconds. If the lever cap operated like it should, the chip breaker isn't all pitted up and the over all condition of the plane plane is in good shape, and right price, buy it. It could be sold by the time if or when you come back.

If it has a frog adjusting screw and a kidney hole shaped lever cap it is still worth a look see. Usually it has a frog that doesn't fit as tightly at the toe of the frog. The frog can get slightly twisted making it harder to adjust the blade so it cuts flat accosted the blade. There is a clip that screws to the frog. It allows for the frog to be moved. Rotating it slightly can center the toe of the frog central to the body. Then adjusting the blade side to side is much easier. In my opinion the rest of the planes condition and price make it a keeper or a walk away.

Personally I prefer to have two of each size. One with a slightly cambered blade and one just sharpened straight a crossed. No one has ever proved that a flat bottom or a corrugated bottom is the best so I have the cambered blade in the flat bottom, so I know what I have when I pick it up. No real reason for this it just happened and I stayed with it. I mean for $15 each I can afford one of each. My 5s and 6s are my main work horses. Since My 6s do most of the jointer work I use my 7 or 8 for a final couple of strokes only and the 8 is the least used.


Tom