Hello Friends,
I hope you are all fairing well.
I have an Oaks Lock on the door for our Air BnB and have ordered 2 different gateways for it and neither work. I’ve ordered yet another gateway, because 2 people said that it hooks up easily with their Oaks…so we’ll see.
I’m wondering if someone might share with me what smart door lock for home they use remotely? We travel quite a bit and it would be helpful to set a new code for the door while I am out of town. Currently I need to be within 6 feet of the lock to set a new code.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

What is your current source for bandsaw blades?

Also, I'll be doing a considerable amount of re-sawing on hickory to make cabinet door panels. What blade would you recommend to use on a 14" Rikon 10-325 for that?
I've done this before on the same bandsaw about 7 years ago. I don't remember what I used, but it was probably just whatever was the cheapest 3/4" bandsaw blade I could find and I got by okay, but this time around I have probably 3x the amount of re-sawing to do.

thanks

I spoke to Steve's wife two nights ago.

Steve passed away not long after his posts about installing an elevator in his house.

I met Steve a few times, including a couple where he was gracious enough to invite folks to his shop.

Steve was well known here as a Moderator, woodworker, frequent poster, and one of the ones who made the Christmas Auctions and other charitable ventures successful.

I was pretty broken up speaking to her on the phone, and can't find the right words even now.

I did tell her that If she found herself needing ANYTHING that Steve had a strong network of friends here both locally and across the US and Canada that would find a way to help.

Once this thread has run its course, I intend to print it out and send it to Allison.

For those wishing to send cards, PM me for an address.  The cards will be forwarded from that address as mine was.

I'm about to start building a custom closet for SWMBO.  It's a very large closet, 24'x8'.  I'll be building it in 36" sections to make installation easier over time.

My question is about mounting.  The floor in the closet has carpet (that's 23 years old) and will eventually (if not now!) need to be replaced.

I want to rip up the carpeting to leave bare subfloor (plywood) so that I can place my 2x4 frame bases directly on it to shim them level.  This will allow me to leave a 3" toe kick under the units.  Once done, I want to put in vinyl tiles and maybe a long rug.

My wife hates this idea because it'll be bare subfloor for many months until the build is complete.

Then I suggested hanging them from the wall on a French cleat.

She hates this idea because she wants them on the floor.

I don't want to build them on top of the carpet because they'll likely settle independently and end up wonky.  I also don't want to have to remove them all when we decide to replace the carpet.

Give me some ammo to tell her I'm not going to start the job if the carpet is remaining.  Or tell me I'm an person and go ahead and build it as she wants.

I just need to know the best way to go.

One more box finished. This goes in the lower section of the tool box ...



Opening it up reveals ...



A Record #043 with fence and blades, and two other objects, one a small dovetailed box ...



This is 2" long x 1" wide.



Inside are blades for a marking knife, a lead sharpener, and a chunk of steel.

The latter is a blade for a profile scraper, as designed by Garrett Hack. Look at the bead made here. One is in pine, which is a real challenge, and the other is on the edge of black walnut, which is easier ...



The main difference of this tool is the 2mm thick blade made of HSS/M2...



I've not seen one this thick before. It is fantastic in its ability to control a cut both pushed forwards and pulled backwards. The ends of a bead are tricker to complete (they generally end before the edge), and here they could be done.

The scratch stock blade is HSS, and what's more, it is very hard steel! Man, making that bead was hard work! I started the cutout with a small angle grinder, and then used diamond files. Wore out a few.

The advantage of this steel is that it is pretty abrasion resistant, scraping creates heat, and heat destroys an edge. This will hold an edge very well, and sharpening it is easy-enough - just hone the bead face on 1200/3000 diamond stones. Do this before the edge rounds, and it will stay sharp.
 
Now one more detail about this blade - it is also a fantastic scraper for small sections of tear out.

The long flat side ....



One short side is curved. This enables one to get into really small areas ...



The way these are sharpened to to create a burr/hook by running it into the face of a bench grinder. This is a 180 grit CBN wheel ...



Lastly, a new leather shoulder strap for the tool box ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

One of the tools for the Tool Box is the Record #043 plough plane. This is a gem of a plane - small enough not to take up too much space, and it fights above its weight. I have the Veritas Small Plow and Combination planes, but they are too large and heavy to include in this tool box. Veritas has also brought out their version of the #043. I've only seen it in photos, and it looks really excellent. It did give me one idea for tuning up the Record.



One of the vulnerabilities of this plane is the loose blade clamp. They fall off and get lost. I have done what Veritas has done and screwed the blade clamp to the body.



This requires drilling the clamp and then tapping the body for a bolt. Note that the bolt must not be tightened up against the body. Leave the clamp slightly loose. If tight against the body, the clamp screw will likely end up off centre, and this will cant the blade. Leaving it loose allows it to rotate into square.

Add a sub-fence. Make this longer, but not too deep. A longer fence aids in registration as the blade enters and comes off the work piece. The depth of the fence is kept shallow as this is a small plough plane intended for small boards, such as boxes and small drawer sides.



There is nothing worse when a plough plane looses its setting, either the depth of cut or the fence setting. The knobs are finger tightened, and generally this is not enough as metal-on-metal ends up slipping. The knobs need to be cranked down. This is made easier if the knobs receive a slot for a screwdriver.

I've never liked the Record blades, and so decided to make new ones. In any event, I wanted metric versions: 3mm and 6mm for drawer grooves, plus a 10mm for rebates. The 3mm needed to be shaped wider at the rear to have enough clamping area. Note that the Veritas blades fit and work very well in this plane, but I planned to make my own, and for pennies.

Making the blades was quite simple - I used HSS (M2) purchased via eBay. All blades are 3mm thick and come in 8"/200mm lengths. One 6mm length creates both the 3mm and 6mm blades. 30 degree bevels ...



All blades require a relief angle, which is a slight taper away from the cutting edge. The purpose of this is to avoid the blade binding in the groove. The relief angle was made using the fixture for grinding the sides of dovetail chisels.



Here is the 3mm blade installed ...



Why a 3mm blade? Well, this is the side used for small boxes, where the box- or drawer bottom has a 3mm tongue.

I also wanted to try out an idea I had for positioning the groove, as well as when ploughing into the grain (which would typically cause tearout and a nasty looking groove). The mortise gauge I made (with the fixed blades in a cassette) has a 3mm blade ...



Here is the board scored ...



... and ploughed ...



All the blades worked well. Grooving (with the grain) is straight forward. Rebating across the grain is more of a challenge. This is facilitated by first scoring the surface with a cutting gauge.



Regards from Perth

Derek

GOOGLE PHOTOS LINK FOR PICS
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rMLQAWjC1xrY8gP16


I have a Woodworkers Supply 3/4" wood threader these are no longer sold, but Dieter Schmid has the same thing for $180 Euro (roughly $210 USD). I made a few vice screws from Ash with these and it worked wonderfully.

I also have the 1.5" 38mm version by Dieter Schmid this is the normal size for larger bench screws for a leg vise. This goes for $613 EURO (roughly $720 USD). I also hade a few leg vises using this and it worked amazing.

I'm also putting the Dieter Schmid link for comparison.
https://www.fine-tools.com/Wood-Thr...or...ads/301863


I'd like $600 + free shipping for the pair

or

$125 + free shipping for the smaller
and
$525 + free shipping for larger

In this tutorial, we go through the process of taking a freshly cut log and making a bowl. Our piece of Honey Locust will get split, rough turned, dry for a year, finish turned, sanded and then finished with food grade mineral oil to create a natural salad bowl.

While out & about looking through garage sales ( and NOT finding anything I wanted) stopped at an Antique Store, that I have never been to..just to see what they had....
Yankee Screwdriver..pass
Gooddell Pratt Co. Eggbeater..pass
Then this...
   
The other 2 items were $10 each...
   
Yeah, I thought so, too....but..
   
V & B  No. 704....Toe says it was Drop Forged....( Steel, NOT cast iron)
Very little rust, wood (Walnut) was solid, no cracks..
   
Nothing broken, nothing missing....paid the storekeeper, and went to the Chevy..

Stay tuned, for the rehab..

I have for sale an Infinity Super General 10" table saw blade.  40 tooth, ATB, .097" thin kerf design.  The blade has seen very little use and is in essentially new condition.  Asking $50 plus shipping.

Thanks!
Brian

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