https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7378513

Hope you accept

I need to replace the receptacle under the kitchen sink. The outlet there has been divided into a switch section for a disposal and a non switched section for whatever. I see code now requires a GFCI in that location. Before I buy one, I’d like to know if there’s a special type, or can regular one be used where one section is switched and the other is continuous? With a regular outlet all you have to do is break the hot connection on the out and keep the neutral tied.

Looks like the plastic fan inside the housing shredded itself.  I stopped using it the moment the 15 little plastic blades appeared.  I have questions:
...how vital is the fan to the life of the router?
...even though I've had it 20+ yrs, it's had light usage, and it appears to have been made in USA, is it worth having it repaired?
...what router would you buy to replace it?  (I have 3 1/4 hp PC in router table, DW611PK, Makita 18V, PC 690 single speed Made in Mexico, and a 50 y/o Craftsman 1 3/4 hp)  I seldom use a router but two weeks ago, I had four of them set up and in use every day for a week.

I know a lot of you guys enjoy repairing your own tools, I have done some, but I'm not comfortable.

I do have great respect for the WoodNet community, so I eagerly await your suggestions.

I"m waiting to see if anyone responds to my siding question, so I thought I'd share something a little more humorous.

My wife has been asking for the hood to be put on the dryer vent. I said I'd do it, there's no reason to remind me every six months. So the new hood went on last weekend, after I cleared out the half built birds nest just inside.
"The dryer isn't venting right, the little door only opens halfway. I think it's still blocked up."
Reminded again this weekend; "Can you fix the dryer vent please? I can feel the humidity in the basement."

O.k., I've got some long lengths of 2" hose in the shop. Doesn't fit the Shop-vac, but I've got 3 lengths of vac hose and 6 of these wands. That should reach. There's about 20' of 4" sched. 20 pipe to an elbow aimed down to the dryer elbow. Should be easy now! (No. Not usually.)

Somehow between last week and this, the brushes on the Shop vac wore down enough to warrant getting another Shop vac. O.k., now we're ready to go. Went well. Too well? Something must be wrong, that was too easy. I checked the previously empty vac to find some, but not as much debris as I would expect, so I proceeded to replace the infamous vent hood. All was well. However; as I was packing up the two shop vacs I realized there were two wands missing. Find a flashlight, bright enough to shine 20' into the pipe. There they are. Next come the semi-rigid fiberglass snakes (the 3' sections screw together) with a hook fashioned to the end. Caught the wands on the second try. Gently pulling them out they're stuck on something. A little harder. A little more. Something moved a few inches then stopped again. Ahhh, that was... No please not.... Yep. I pulled the pipes apart in the ceiling. When I opened up the ceiling the pipes were separated by about 2" and the end of the wand was right there too. After some re-assembly, that vent hood went on for the third time.

So, in summary, that dryer vent has been there for over 20 years and it hasn't been cleaned before. If the vent hood wasn't off for almost a year, a bird wouldn't have thought it was a good place to raise its family and it still wouldn't have needed a cleaning.

What can I say? "I'm a guy. I fix things and I know stuff. You shouldn't have waited so long to remind me?" 
Yea, that'll go well!

So I've got a "roof raise" project that I've been working on (for too long). Customers wanted to change siding color from white to grey on the whole house at some point in the near future, so I put the new color on my new work. The new 28 x 38 second floor sits on a 26 x 70+ ranch so there's somewhere between 1700 and 2000 square ft. of vinyl siding to be removed. About 2/3 of that has wide clap boards underneath. The window door casings stay as I'll be putting 3/4" foam to bring it flush for siding. I asked a young guy (late 20's early 30's) if he wanted to quote to strip and load in my dumpster. I'll add that he has been charging me $32.50/Hr.. I even offered to let him do the back (about 5 square) by the hour to help him guesstimate his time. He said he just had to measure. I told him it was more important to know how much had clapboards too, and gave him some advice based on how I've done it in the past. (He did listen and genuinely thank me.) I pointed to a wall section about 12'x 9'; he said; Just vinyl, only about 10 minutes, but (he) still had to pick up and load it. I suggested I would lay out a tarp, lay 2 or 3 short ropes next to the wall, drop the vinyl siding somewhat neatly on the ropes so I could tie up a bundle to take to the dumpster. Now you still have to pull (or bang in) some nails and bring the tarp to the next section, then grab a water or take a leak, so call it 30 minutes. He agreed. How about I pay you for an hour, (for 100 sq. ft.) then I won't care how many breaks you take. Sounded really good to him! He just gave me a quote of $5000! That's more than double what I expected.

Question is, how do I diplomatically tell him he's out of his f-ing mind? I think we're too far apart for him to save face. He's over $250/sq. and I esimated $200/sq. including the mat'ls and labor for foam board or Typar and taped joints. That's based on $100/Hr. + overhead+ 15% for me doing something that doesn't require my experience or desire to do.

There's a saying that goes something like "Diplomacy is telling someone to go to hell in a manner that they'll actually look forward to making the trip."

Pulled up carpet and the tack strips, despite my best efforts there are multiple divots where the tacks were. I know best and easy don't go together often but looking for a filler that might be both or at least some ideas on best way to fill. Thanks.

Good afternoon - I"m looking for some hands experienced folks who can compare the Incra 1000SE to the Jessum 07150 miter gauges.  If one had both and wanted to slim the herd which one should he keep?

Rick

I have a shop with a metal roof that has black algae on it I was wondering what is the best way to clean it.

UPDATE: I changed course on this.  Please see new thread “finger pull dimensions”.

Thx


I added a more legible attachment/diagram.

I’ve resurrected a long dormant project and realize i made a calculation error  that now requires a creative solution. I have an idea but want to get the forum opinion on whether the aesthetics  check out.

The project consists of (4) oak plywood boxes  that will be fastened together to creat a built-in credenza that sits on the floor below an existing built-in book shelf system. The credenza will consist of (2) bookshelf boxes and (2) drawer boxes with inset drawers …. which is where the mistake occurred.

 Originally the drawer fronts were going to be oak ply with 3/4” square edging to finish the ply edges. Midstream,  I decided to simplify the front building and I purchased and cut solid oak boards.

 The inside height of the box’s are 23.5”. 

Box #2 is loaded  with (2) file drawers requiring (3) reveal / gaps between drawers and the carcass.. The drawer front board is 11.25” x 2 drawers = 22.5 leaving 1”  divided by 3 reveals = a bit more that 5/16” per reveal.

Box #3 is loaded with (1) file drawer and (2) smaller drawers. The file drawer front is 11.25 x 1, small drawer front is 5.5” x 2 = 22.25, leaving 1.25” divided by 4 reveals = .3125 = 5/16

i was originally planning on 1/8” reveals .

I see 2 solutions (see crude, not to scale diagram attached):

A. Simply Make up for the short fall by adding a strip of oak board to the top of each drawer front that  would be uniform thickness for all file drawers. At minimum it would be about  5/16 but could be more if aesthetic call for it (and I would rip the existing front slab to accommodate).


B. Integrate an oak drawer pull across the entire width of each drawer that sits proud of the top of the front (and makes up the shortfall).   See cross sections diagram. This would replace the original plan for shop-made oak pulls that would have been roughly 1/3 the width iof the drawer, centered and located in the typical vertical position.

Appreciate any thoughts about A or B or perhaps something else.

Thanks for looking.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

of making a bowl, vase or box anyway you wish to make it and post it here on this like.

I am glad I am finally back after doing some major upgrades in the shop in the last 8 months and I feel the GREAT NEED to turn again.  For me I want to make something eye catching and then donate it to a worth cause to action off.

What do you think everyone?   Maybe even find a cause to let time auction them?