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Paving Question - crokett™ - 07-14-2025
My driveway is a steep hill. It's currently gravel. Heavy rains wash it out. We are considering having the steepest part of it paved. Currently we would not pave the parking area at the top or a section at the bottom that transitions to a flatter section. It is not practical to pave the entire private road as it is 3/10 mile long. My question is whether there will be issues at the top and bottom where it transitions from the paved to the unpaved sections.
if it matters the grade is steep. I don't know how steep, but lets say at least 30%, but not more than 40%?
RE: Paving Question - Roly - 07-14-2025
(07-14-2025, 09:34 AM)crokett™ Wrote: My driveway is a steep hill. It's currently gravel. Heavy rains wash it out. We are considering having the steepest part of it paved. Currently we would not pave the parking area at the top or a section at the bottom that transitions to a flatter section. It is not practical to pave the entire private road as it is 3/10 mile long. My question is whether there will be issues at the top and bottom where it transitions from the paved to the unpaved sections.
if it matters the grade is steep. I don't know how steep, but lets say at least 30%, but not more than 40%?
Could you install a concrete apron on both ends of drive with a rabbit in the concrete so the paving sits on the rabbit and supports the edge of the asphalt ? Have about an 18" width on the concrete and a rabbit about the size of a 2X4. With the top of the concrete the same elevation as the finished paving to take any impact away from the edge. Roly
RE: Paving Question - fixtureman - 07-14-2025
There shoild be no problem with that. Back in the 70's most of the county and township roads only paved in front of houses so there was less dust.
RE: Paving Question - crokett™ - 07-15-2025
(07-14-2025, 03:25 PM)Roly Wrote: Could you install a concrete apron on both ends of drive with a rabbit in the concrete so the paving sits on the rabbit and supports the edge of the asphalt ? Have about an 18" width on the concrete and a rabbit about the size of a 2X4. With the top of the concrete the same elevation as the finished paving to take any impact away from the edge. Roly
Probably. I am going to talk to some paving companies and see what they say.
RE: Paving Question - JosephP - 07-15-2025
How long is the steep section? If you fix the washout, does it still need paved? To fix the washout problem:
Can you get the water off of the driveway before it gets to the steep section?
Add a box culvert or 2 in the middle of the steep section.
2 things cause wash: volume and velocity. Reduce those and you can keep more gravel.
RE: Paving Question - branchacctg - 07-15-2025
When we lived in the country in Illinois and had a long somewhat steep driveway, we were advised to order what was called "roadmix" for the driveway. Supposedly as it wore down, it formed a concrete-like base to which you added the future rounds of "roadmix". Don't know if this helps any, but thought I would mention it.
RE: Paving Question - blackhat - 07-16-2025
What is the chance of the asphalt section turning to a skating rink?
RE: Paving Question - R Clark - 07-17-2025
I have a 500' driveway; the upper half is level while the lower half slopes, becoming rather steep near the bottom. The steepest part is about 30%, I think.
I've thought about paving, but it's cost prohibitive, particularly since it would have be able to withstand truck traffic like our propane delivery and the dump truck, which is about 40-50K# by the time they get to us on the route.
The driveway surface was gravel when we moved in; it was poorly maintained and eventually became a "mud run" to get up the hill. I brought in a driveway guy and he put down asphalt millings, the stuff you see being ground up when they're re-paving roadways. Those millings were less than half the price of crusher run limestone and the millings packed in hard. The millings also migrate less than gravel and they don't generate dust.
(branchacctg mentioned "roadmix"...I wonder if that is the same stuff as asphalt millings.)
The first rebuild of the driveway took 75 tons of material and was done in Spring 2016. I had them top it off with 90 additional tons in 2023. Last year I top-dressed the lower half with 15 tons of millings using my tractor and FEL. 15 tons of millings delivered to the spot of my choice is $400.
The asphalt millings are not as aesthetically pleasing as freshly placed crusher run, but it's the best fit for my application and it's cost effective.
RE: Paving Question - sleepy hollow - 07-17-2025
I would suggest first addressing the water runoff problem. A mini excavator can be rented for a few hundred dollars. Add some appropriate sized sharp gravel to the drainage runs (larger for steeper grade) and you might just fix your problem. My son just bought a home in middle TN. It has a long downwards sloping gravel drive with a 90 degree bend at the bottom where it turns behind the house. The garage is behind and below the main floor. I happened to visit them to see my new grandson when a mother of a rainstorm hit. We watched the driveway get washed out in two spots, one near the top and one at the bottom. If the water could have been kept off the driveway at those spots there would have been no washout.
Adding sufficient runoff control with drainage along one side at the top and both sides near the bottom would have averted the washout. I spent the next day moving the washed gravel by wheelbarrow back up to its original location. That was a good workout. My son has obtained a couple quotes for topping off the driveway and fixing the drainage. I think it is running about $4K as I recall. Driveway is about 200'. Much cheaper than paving of course. But even without the professional treatment, a $3-400 rental machine and a load of gravel would clearly address 95% of his problem.
RE: Paving Question - Roly - 07-17-2025
(07-17-2025, 06:33 AM)R Clark Wrote: I have a 500' driveway; the upper half is level while the lower half slopes, becoming rather steep near the bottom. The steepest part is about 30%, I think.No, the roadmix in my area is a mixture of various rock and sand sizes along with some cement. It will compact very good and not remain loose like minus mix or clean rock. Roly
I've thought about paving, but it's cost prohibitive, particularly since it would have be able to withstand truck traffic like our propane delivery and the dump truck, which is about 40-50K# by the time they get to us on the route.
The driveway surface was gravel when we moved in; it was poorly maintained and eventually became a "mud run" to get up the hill. I brought in a driveway guy and he put down asphalt millings, the stuff you see being ground up when they're re-paving roadways. Those millings were less than half the price of crusher run limestone and the millings packed in hard. The millings also migrate less than gravel and they don't generate dust.
(branchacctg mentioned "roadmix"...I wonder if that is the same stuff as asphalt millings.)
The first rebuild of the driveway took 75 tons of material and was done in Spring 2016. I had them top it off with 90 additional tons in 2023. Last year I top-dressed the lower half with 15 tons of millings using my tractor and FEL. 15 tons of millings delivered to the spot of my choice is $400.
The asphalt millings are not as aesthetically pleasing as freshly placed crusher run, but it's the best fit for my application and it's cost effective.