Project from LOML.  This pair of hinges goes on a round folding table that the top folds into different "pie pieces".  

Obviously it's a concealed hinge, but that's about all I can deduce.  Woodworker's Hardware didn't have a match.  This isn't really a cabinet door hinge, but I suppose if you had a cabinet door that you needed to open a full 180 with a concealed hinge, it would do it.

One of the hinges has become very hard to function.  I believe it was bent and now is really stiff if it bends at all.  

No brand name, maker mark, number, or any identifying charateristic can be found on them anywhere.

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I was having trouble raising a burr on any of my scrapers so I got a Union Accu-burr.  It works great on all of my scrapers other than the sandvik.  Now I'm wondering if they understood the assignment, it must be hardened. There are so many posts about how to raise a burr that any info about this scraper is lost in the noise.  Anyone have a scraper like that?

I saw this project by Michael Pekovitch in the latest FWW and thought it would be a good opportunity to see if the vertical fence I had installed in my CNC would work for cutting the dovetails. Pekovitch used butternut and ash, finished with shellac. I used white oak and walnut, and Osmo Oil for the finish.



Turns out, the CNC could create "hand cut" dovetails very close to those Pekovitch cut by hand. The tail boards were cut with the stock flat on the table, in the normal manner. The pin board, however, was cut with the stock cut vertically so that the bit could create the required tapers for the pins. The beauty of this approach is that straight bits can be used for both the tail and pin boards. That also allows you to create any shape and size of dovetail desired, limited only by the length of the bit. Spacing is whatever you want.




I used the CNC to cut the tail and pin boards, as well as the handle.




By using a small radius bit to cut the corners of the tails, the result looks pretty close to hand cut dovetails. Accuracy and precision are assured, too.





Nice little project. Now that I've used the CNC to create some dovetails, I'm looking forward to incorporating them into a larger project.

John

I have a set of Katana Ogee cutters for sale. The have a 3/4 spindle hole and the 3/4 -12 reducer sleeves are included. A job didn't work out and the only time they saw use use in set up and trial cut.

Asking $115 plus shipping.

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/b...94262.html

Give yourself a Christmas gift - this is a project for your 2025 pleasure. The machine was disassembled several years ago. Some parts were refinished and some were not. Something got in the way (can’t remember what) and it went on the back burner. I now have way too many projects and this is one I will likely never use so it’s time it moved to another home.

I believe all parts are present and accounted for but its been awhile so not positive that is true – there may be some missing hardware. The pedestal and grinder have been completed. Tables, water pans and trunions still require work. The grinder is a model CJ23-505 with a serial number of 35-9458 which puts it as a 1946 build. It is a single phase, ½ HP, 3450 RPM 110 volt machine. The switch is not original. It came with a drum switch on the pedestal and I modified the drum switch to fit in the face of the grinder. It operates in both forward and reverse. The grinder has new bearings and power cord and runs fine. I fabricated new brake shoes for it.

I have a Ward Master #7 for sale, It was made for Montgomery Wards by Stanley. The only difference between the Stanley and this one is it doesn't have Bailey on the casting and the writing on the lever cap is different. A while ago I decided to collect Keen Kutter planes, and this one was my #7 user before I got my 2 K7s.

If you have been around for a while you will know I used to precision grind plane for sale and for other people. I like my tools to not only be functionable, but to look nice too. really smooth bottom help reduce friction and reduces friction in use.

The plane has been precision ground and was flat within .001 when I ground it. And I doubt very much has changed. It has been stripped and repainted. Again I like nice looking tools. The knob and tote are original and made of Rose Wood. It has a solid fully machined face on the frog. the fit between both the body and the frog is machined to a much closer fit than newer models, This makes it easier to adjust the blade side to side so it doesn't cut a taper.

I like to show the plane completely disassembled so one can be sure that every thing is as should be when it arrives.

If you are in the market for a #7, don't let the wards lever cap fool you. You can't buy a better plane than this without spending some serious money by buying new. And I wouldn't have spent at least 5 hours regrinding for myself if it  wasn't what I am saying it is. 

 Asking $135 plus shipping.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

Hi All,

Quick question.  Does anyone here have the ability/interest in mixing up some custom resin for pen blanks?  Or, know of a business who does?  I don't have the ability, but I have the need for some pens that use two distinct/specific colors.

Thanks in advance!
Kevin

A little help, please.  I am in the process of selling off the contents of my woodworking shop and am grouping items by area.  In the turning area I can identify most things but I have a number of faceplates that I am almost sure are aircraft aluminum and are red.  Does this ring a bell with anyone?
Thanks,
Ken

The other day, while finishing up a project..was having a hard time finding the right hardware....was getting a bit too low...so..
A trip to the Hobby Lobby Store up in Lima, OH. was made...$22 and change later...hauled a bag of "goodies" back home...
Inventory?
Always in need of handles..
   
Different types of wooden knobs..
   
Or...
   
Both styles need a tenon stuck in them...<1/4" dowels work...

Pegs, anyone?
   
Fancy Brass corners?
   
Wrap the entire corner, or..
   
Just a Heart....

Hinges were about out in the shop, so..plain or fancy?
   
Or special ones?
   

Latches?  The kind that rotates?
   
Or the kind with a flip tab..
   
Like the last one I used for the Resaw Box Project....

That should do for a while...you think?