SOLD!

NEW OLD STOCK - $550 Shipped (CONUS)

Vicmarc VM100 Chuck Kit
1"-8 Adapter
2" Dovetail Jaws
Woodworm Screw
Wrenches & Insert Lever

PLUS -
1" Dovetail Jaws VMJ2590
3" Dovetail Jaws VMDJ7090
4" Dovetail Jaws VMDJ90
Extended Dovetail Jaws VMJ3590
1-3/4" Shark Jaws VMJSP4590
Step Jaws VMSJ90

The chuck and all jaws are all chrome plated. Newer versions of the jaws are cheaper black oxide.

Some model numbers have changed or been discontinued.

Everything is in pristine condition. It all looks new to me. Still in the packing grease.

Will not separate. Must buy all together.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
                               

Some years ago I made a couple of these for family, and recently got requests for other friends and family for some more  Sort of a parody on the "We Three Kings" Christmas theme - three guys on a rare 3-humped camel following a star.  From what I read, the "Magi" were not actually kings but philosophers and curious wise-guys of the sort likely akin to present-day "nerds".  Also, apparently the trek Eastward after noticing an odd confluence of stars occurred from two to four years after the Bethlehem birth but the early Christians adopted the tale to reinforce the "King of Kings" idea.

I could not find the somewhat larger "people" used before so settled for smaller ones from Hobby Lobby, which may be better suited to the concept of "wee three kings" anyway.  I had enough SYP to make two and the others are from common white pine.  Made 6.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

I have been using Hock plane blades over the past 20 years with no issues. I have a #3 that I picked up a few years ago, but set it aside and let it collect dust. A few weeks back, decided to get it in working order. Blade was pitted pretty bad so I ordered a Hock blade for it. Cleaned up the back and honed the edge. I did notice that while I was able to get it sharp, it was not getting quite as sharp as I like.  Tested it on some scrap wood. First pass worked, then subsequent passes, nothing but scrapped dust.  Inspected the edge and it was crumbled. 

I sharpened it again, but the edge crumbled. 

Ground the bevel on the Tormek and honed the edge as normal.  Again, the same problem.

Did a little more work on the back, and sharpened again. I will say that the blade was very flat to begin with so that did not take much effort.

Again, the same problem.  

Last thing I tried last night was grinding away some material on a CBN wheel. Going into the shop today to focus on that plane and see if I can get to the point of good steel on the blade. I have probably removed a touch more than 1/32” of the edge at this point. I have had this problem with a 1-1/2” Ray Iles chisel before, but never had this issue with Hock irons. 

Whats the chances that it is only the edge of the steel versus the entire blade having a bad steel/heat treatment?

I have two different sized Gerstner Tool Chests, both missing the front panel that holds in the drawers for transportation, and folds under when in use.  Neither is these chests will be overly valuable when done.  One was vinyl covered (needs new covering) the second was also missing a drawer.  Point is I don't want to spend "big bucks" on locks.  Gerstner has original ones for $75.00, which is too rich for me.

The front panels are 1/2" thick, and there isn't much room behind them.  I am looking for lower cost locks "similar" to the one pictured.  (that is not a Gerstner).  It should be kind of a dead bolt style that mortises into the panel.  I've looked on Amazon, and Van Dykes, and haven't found the right one.  I only need close, not perfect.
Got any ideas?  Maybe a sliding latch?

Thanks

   

   

   

Some years ago I switched from a Delta Unisaw to a SawStop Professional saw, and have never regretted making ti (expensive) switch. Love the SawStop. I've tripped the brake about three times. Cost of a new blade and a cartridge about $150, but that amount wouldn't even get you past the front desk at the emergency ward. 
Yesterday when ripping a short length of walnut, the saw decided to lower the blade below the table, without cutting power to the blade. Retrieved the piece I'd been ripping, tried to complete the cut, and had the same problem. Then I tried just turning on power but not running any material into the blade, and the blade slowly lowered itself below the table. Tried to raise it with the elevation whee., and the control refused to raise.  Lowered the control and then raised it and it brought the blade back up to full height. Tried it again, same thing. It took the blade about 30 to 40 seconds to lower beneath the table top. I then submitted a problem report to Saw Stop, and received a reply that they'd get back to me as soon as they could. Waiting for a reply, just for grins I decided to remove the cartridge and then reseat it. Sure enough, quick no-cost fix, let the bsaw running for several minutes, and it remained at its set height.  Forr a test I ran a 4 foot length of particle board through the saw, making half a dozen cuts, and the blade remained at the set height  I repplied to SawStop's response to my initial report, describing what I'd done, letting them know the case number could now be closed.  And now I know what to try if I ever encounter this problem again.

My wife has been on me to do something about the finish on our kitchen cabinets. Overall they are in pretty good shape but a couple of drawers and doors have some wear and tear on them. I would prefer to touch up the worn places instead of doing a total refinish but matching finish colors isn't one of my strongpoints. 

I figure I can get one of the drawers, probably the one in the picture below since it's the worst, and see if I can match the color adequately. If not, then I guess a total refinish would be in order.

Anyone have any thoughts or experience doing this?

TIA!

   

   

Hi,

I built the Martin House a few years ago.  Well....I should call it the sparrows, wrens and chickadees house.  Nary a martin in site.  Oh well.


But I also looked out this AM and saw a squirrel....bastages!!....go in 1 of the holes.  How would you prevent this?


I was thinking about looking around for SS washers that have an ID that'll fit the birds, but not the rats that can get through.  McMasterCarr maybe?? (of course I'll check the Cornell School of Ornithology to get the correct ID beforehand).  Since the individual doors are curved somewhat, do they make large size washers that are slightly curved?


Anyone else built it?  If so, how are you keeping the bastages out??



(It does look much better in real life...the snap of a .jpg file seems to wash out some of the colors)

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

this one is in the upstairs bathroom.  Combination tube and shower so has a diverter.  When you try to divert water to the shower, the valve is only half closing, so water still comes out the tub spout. I think the valve needs to ber replaced.  I tried calling Kohler twice, there was a 15 minute hold both times.  I have a vague memory of replacing o rings or something in in this shower a few years ago.    So, replace just the valve or replace the entire valve body, fixture, etc?  If I replace everything I assume I will have to go in through the wall on the other side again?

I posted this design quite a while ago (probably more than a year ago) and got a lot of good advice that I implemented.  I am now finally in the process of building it.  I am wondering what would be the best mechanism for joining the head board and foot board panel assemblies to the legs/posts.  

I built John Teneyck's horizontal router mortiser and am thinking that loose tenons is my best option, but wondering if I am overlooking something that might be better. 

The wood is cherry.  The legs/posts are 3/4" boards glued into a 3 1/2" square using a lock miter bit.  I have machined the leg/post boards but have not glued them up yet so I can still add something to the inside of the post if needed (like maybe a threaded insert or something). 

I do not own a Domino.

If I did loose tenons would 1/4" (easiest) be enough or should I go 3/8" (requires an additional set up step and extra pass or buy a new 3/8" bit).  Also would you only put loose tenons in the top and bottom rail, or would you put a couple in the outside stiles of the panel assembly?

How would you attach the panel assembly to the posts?  Thanks in advance for the advice.

   

   

edited with new picture for clarification

Have a 24 yr old Burnham oil fired boiler. Last week it decided to stop working.  My “go to guy” (he is the go to guy in this county) discovered a bad slider joint on the backside of the circuit board which had opened the neutral. We soldered a jumper wire on the circuit board and got the furnace running. This same thing had happened about 8 years ago discovered & fixed it the same way. Eventually replacing the original board when we got a replacement (current board now)
My problem is the T&P valve is leaking. He got a 30 PSI relief valve to me and I replaced the old one. It leaks, since I noticed the PSI on the furnace going above 30psi. Think before hand it ran around 20+psi, Temp is 170 F. 

I would call him , but tomorrow he has shoulder surgery, last Thursday his mother passed away with funeral last Monday. He got me the relief valve Monday night. Just not going to bother him— small rural town where everyone helps everyone. Wife and I spent most of day helping serve luncheon at her funeral.

Need some ideas as to what to do. 

Thanks for any help.
 Don C.