The other day, while finishing up a project..was having a hard time finding the right hardware....was getting a bit too low...so..
A trip to the Hobby Lobby Store up in Lima, OH. was made...$22 and change later...hauled a bag of "goodies" back home...
Inventory?
Always in need of handles..
   
Different types of wooden knobs..
   
Or...
   
Both styles need a tenon stuck in them...<1/4" dowels work...

Pegs, anyone?
   
Fancy Brass corners?
   
Wrap the entire corner, or..
   
Just a Heart....

Hinges were about out in the shop, so..plain or fancy?
   
Or special ones?
   

Latches?  The kind that rotates?
   
Or the kind with a flip tab..
   
Like the last one I used for the Resaw Box Project....

That should do for a while...you think?

John (jteneyck) was so kind and shared with me a resaw jig he had made.

I had a LOT of veneer to make so the fact that the jig had to be readjusted after ever cut made me rethink the design. 


My version allows you to resaw up to about an 1 1/2" board without any adjustment.  I have done an 1 1/4" board and I know a thicker board could be done.

As you can see, I used extension springs and arms with a pivot point in the middle.
The larger rod you see protruding from the top is the pivot rod.  The smaller one is a stop rod for the arms.
The springs I used don't put a ton of pressure but seem to work just right IMO.  I used a threaded hook on one end of the springs so I can increase the tension a little if needed.
Of course, if determined necessary, the springs could be switched out with stronger springs.
2" wheels and then an arm that allows me to pull the rollers back to engage the piece to be resawn.  As you can see the I used chain to connect the arms with the pull back lever that is hinged.
I got the springs, rollers, chains, rods at Menards.

I cut up a BUNCH of walnut and 1/4 sawn WO and I am pretty happy with the results.

Toney

   

   

   

   

   

Been working with power tools for 30 years and just started to work with hand tools

I took a dovetailing class and did pretty well cutting dovetails there, using sharp chisels for the first time.

I'm trying to do the same at home, but my own chisels don't seem to pare well at all. I bought two Shapton glass stones (1000 and 8000 grit) and a Lee Valley side clamping honing guide.
I'm trying sharpening either a 25 degree primary bevel or a 25 and then a 30 degree micro bevel. My chisels are probably low to medium quality (Rockler Chrome vanadium set and a Stanley 1/4" not sure what
kind of metal). I really don't know if it's the medium to low quality of the chisels or my inexperience at sharpening, but paring out the sockets is no pleasure for sure.

Any advice would be great:

1) Can i get these chisels I have sharp enough, but they'll just dull faster?
2) Should I just invest in better quality chisels? The Lee Valley PM V11s are quite expensive at like $90 for one 1/4" chisel. Any recommendations on chisels with decent steel would be helpful if these Rocklers are no good.
3) Any suggestions on sharpening.

Thank you,

Dave

I am looking to pick up some spare bearings for a couple of Porter Cable 690 series routers. I would have thought that there would be some cross reference between PC part numbers and standard bearing numbers somewhere on the web. If it exists, I could not find it. Here are the two PC part numbers:

878065 fan bearing
855284 commutator bearing

I know I can take the unit apart and remove the bearings and measure them, but I'd like to have the replacements on hand before I disassemble the units.

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I want to make my next wooden handplane. I made the last one from beech, I like it, but I work with it on woods harder than it all the time, and wearing is a problem to some extent. I work with black locust most of the time. The options I have is to use black locust for the plane, or I also have osage, that is about 15% denser as I remember. I wonder if it would be a good choice though? Besides being denser, I also read shrinkage or movements are not a really big issue with that wood. But when I cut the osage tree out, the bark released some kind of gluey sap. Like the fruit. It is very heavy stuff, very sticky. I wonder if that is in the wood too, and if it makes it difficult to work with the wood itself? Or because of the sap can it irritate my skin?

I made this octagon box just for fun.  



I first was going to make it round on both the inside and out and with a threaded top, but after I saw how nice my miters were I decided to leave the outside as an octagon.  For the curious, I cut the miters on my CMS using an added 90 deg fence to assure the piece were plumb against the fence, only to find that the 22.5 deg angle was off by a fraction of a degree.  I had to disengage the preset 22.5 deg detent and tweak the angle some unknown amount until the mating pieces formed a perfect 45 degrees.  

I used my CNC to cut the ID.  At 3" thick, this was about the maximum I could put under Z-axis with a bit long enough to reach at least 1-1/2" deep.  The ID is cut just over halfway, then the box is flipped over and the other side is cut, as well as the rabbett on the bottom to receive the bottom panel.  What looks like two layers when you look inside the box is actually how the grain responded from the bit cutting in opposite directions.  That would disappear if I had been motivated enough to sand it all out, but I wasn't. 



The octagon shape pretty much nixed the idea of a threaded top.  There's just no way that the top would line up with the base when screwed on.  I could have used a round top to overcome that, but that didn't seem too appealing, so I just made a top with a shoulder on the bottom that fits into the ID of the base.  

The dome shape of the top is easy to do with a piece of clip art from the VCarve Pro software I have, as were the flutes that lay onto the dome.  I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it, probably gift it, but it was a fun project to make. 

John

HI
I need to glue two small pieces of plastic to gather.  They will be under stress.  Is there a preferred type of glue for this?  Just use epoxy?? gorilla glue??
Thanks

Mark

I finished this am by installing the clasp to keep the door closed.


I wasn't able to find the 3 Mountaineers print on the front and the inside, so I went with a cherry panel.



(the tough part will be mailing it to her in DC after Christmas!!!)

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Fabricating a 28x18in end table with Black Walnut & Alumilite Deep pour resin.

I’m going to be working a project for my daughter cutting 4x4 posts. Might not have a generator to run the PC Circular Saw. They’ll be in the ground and I’m cutting the excess above 10’.
Will also be cutting 2X’s and 1Xs but the posts are the most important.

I don’t have a battery powered saw. Or system. Yet.
Would this be a good option OR do y’all think there’s better value out there?

DEWALT XR 20-volt Max 7-1/4-in Brushless Cordless Circular Saw Kit (Battery & Charger Included)

Thoughts.