I have a Delta DJ20 Joiner I would like to sell.  I am the second owner, had it about 12 years but it is too big for my new shop and I rarely use it as the type of projects I do has changed over the years. The knob to loosen the fence is gone, I intended to make one for it but never got around to it.  Also has the guard, rabbeting ledge, some spare knives and a jointer pal jig.  I think it's obvious, but pickup is required.

$550 with the mobile base included.

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I know most plane makers made many different models or revisions to their planes over time. Often referred to types. Stanley types are the best documented so it would seem most collatable. And it seems to be a very important topic here on this forum.

I hate to pop a lot of people's bubble, but I really do not care what type it is, nor do I want to spend the time trying to decide if the front knob is correct for that particular type of plane. 4, 5,a nd 6s go around here at flea markets for between $1 and $30 so there is no real collectors value. Notice I said around here, It could be different depending on what part of the country you love in. So let me be clear I could care less as to what type my plane is. I have some Stanley's but my collection is Keen Kutter K series planes which were not typed

I want to pick up my plane and use it to cut shavings and in the heat of using it, the type doesn't enter in. How ever there are a few things I look for. and a study of what type doesn't enter in. First thing I look for is if it has a frog adjusting screw or not. If it has one, it means it has machined seats. If no screw just keep walking unless you like the looks of the knob and tote and the price justifies new wood for your plane. A lot of really cheap planed have a cast surface on both the frog and plane body. Next I look to see if it has a keyhole lever cap or a Kidney hole lever cap. If it has a keyhole lever cap it means that it is an older model or lower numbered type and if the asking price is reasonable it is worth taking a good hard look at it. Getting to this point shouldn't take more than 15 seconds. If the lever cap operated like it should, the chip breaker isn't all pitted up and the over all condition of the plane plane is in good shape, and right price, buy it. It could be sold by the time if or when you come back.

If it has a frog adjusting screw and a kidney hole shaped lever cap it is still worth a look see. Usually it has a frog that doesn't fit as tightly at the toe of the frog. The frog can get slightly twisted making it harder to adjust the blade so it cuts flat accosted the blade. There is a clip that screws to the frog. It allows for the frog to be moved. Rotating it slightly can center the toe of the frog central to the body. Then adjusting the blade side to side is much easier. In my opinion the rest of the planes condition and price make it a keeper or a walk away.

Personally I prefer to have two of each size. One with a slightly cambered blade and one just sharpened straight a crossed. No one has ever proved that a flat bottom or a corrugated bottom is the best so I have the cambered blade in the flat bottom, so I know what I have when I pick it up. No real reason for this it just happened and I stayed with it. I mean for $15 each I can afford one of each. My 5s and 6s are my main work horses. Since My 6s do most of the jointer work I use my 7 or 8 for a final couple of strokes only and the 8 is the least used.


Tom

Are there any books forum members can recommend which give detailed instructions for how to construct humidors?
The more comprehensive the better.
Thanks in advance.

SOLD Here is a nice set of Freud Avanti router bits, 1/2” shank, in an equally nice wooden display case. These appear to be unused and are in like-new condition. They include:

Chamfer Bit
Round Nose Bit
Round Over Bit
Rabbeting Bit
Roman Ogee Bit

I think this is easily worth $40 ($8 per bit), plus shipping. SOLD

If interested, PM me, and let me know your zip code for shipping quote.

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Id like to streamline the cutting of a 90 degree angle on the edge of a board that is off axis enough to use it as a flat piece of crown molding

   

I know I could do something like this with 4 cuts on the table saw, but I’d like a router bit that would cut each side in one pass.

I am sure a bit like this exists, what name does it go by so I can search for it?

Thanks 
Duke

I'm not sure if this is the right place to put this but I just wanted to let people know I put some .stl files for a 3D printed wide blade platform on the Printables website.  I know a lot of people are using the Stumpy Nub's solution but that is too bulky for me.  A lot of people have 3D printers now so I thought it might be useful since Work Sharp stopped producing them years ago and sometimes, I see people asking for them.  The files are free and easily downloadable. 

Like many here I have been chasing decent miter saw dust collection for some years.

A couple years ago I bought a 12 inch Bosch glide saw so I could put it closer to the wall.

I really like the glide mechanism and that has proven to be be very durable. About a year ago I had a blade catch event with the saw while cutting aluminum and caused significant damage to both sides of the fence.  I ordered replacement parts and apparently there are 2 sub models of that saw so I got the wrong ones initially.  While waiting for the correct ones to arrive I made an aluminum adapter to use pieces of 15 series 80/20 as the fence and like it so much I haven’t gone back to the original they are stored under the saw.

One of the things I liked about the 80/20 fence was better support close to the blade as I almost never turn from 90 degrees on the saw I was able to leave a very small gap behind the blade.  It also greatly simplified attachment of a home built dust collection shroud directly behind the blade.  This really improved dust collection but still there was room for improvement, as a lot of dust was escaping.

The saw has a dedicated shop vac under it with 2.5 inch PVC routed up to behind the saw that comes on automatically with the saw.

Eventually I bought the Shop nation 3d Printed device that mounts around the back of the blade and it has been far better than any dust collection solution I have tried on any miter saw.

I guess I buried the lead but I really like the shop nation dust collection device.

For my Stanley No. 45, Type 20.  
   
Problems is with the 2 thumbscrews....just to tighten or loosen them, I needed a pair of pliers.   Even then, they did not always hold..threads were getting bad..
   
In fact, I needed a pair of pliers to even remove these.....so...

I was at Lowes the other day...picked up a pair of 1/4" x 20 Thumbscrews, and a Tap & Drill Bit set to match....fun part when I got home?   Trying to find the Tap Wrench that would work....been quite a while since I last used it....was a bit rusted up.    Cleaned and oiled that up...installed the Tap.

Tried the drill bit...wasn't needed..it just slide all the way in by itself.    Ok..
   
We cut new threads.   No oil needed when tapping Cast Iron....test the fit..
   
There was one more item to do...new thumbscrews had squared off ends...I needed pointed ones, so..
   
A few minutes over at the Grinder...then see IF this will lock the rod in place...
   
Works like brand new!    Repeat for the other end...
   
Then, place that rod and the Improved Fence back into the Case...
   
I also tossed the old thumbscrews into the case...just in case I need them elsewhere...never  know...
Close the case's lid..
   
Place the case back up on it's own shelf, until the next time I need to use the plane.

Thanks for looking in!

Let's see how long this stays on the front page.

Just for giggles.

Cliff