I purchased some Jessem stuff a while ago. I bought both the Imperial and Metric versions. I find I do not use the Metric set up tools. 
I have never used any of them. So, for sale is:
 
Stainless Steel Precision Square
300 MM Metric $110  --  Jessem Part Number 07401
 
Stainless Steel Tool Setting Gauge -
Metric Combo Package 1 Large Metric and 1 small Metric $130 -- Jessem Part Number 07310


The prices above are Jessem's current pricing, not my asking price.

Buy one, buy them all at 65% of Jessem's pricing. That makes the square $71 and the 
Metric Combo Pack $84. Shipping is on me.

The asking prices are, of course, OR BEST OFFER. Questions or comments, please let me know.

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Looking for a Mini Max G260 or LAB 300

I am very restricted for shop space and would really be interested if anyone is thinking of selling one. Can drive a distance if anyone has one.

Located in Alabama

a while back I asked about filters as the sediment filter on my well seemed to need changing with increasing frequency.  When we moved in, it was 10-12 weeks depending on how much we used.  Now it's down to 3-4 weeks.  After some research I had a company come in to scope the well.  It's expensive but I wanted to see what I was dealing with just in case it was a split casing.  The process is they pull my well pump, put their own larger one in and draw the water down, then run the camera down it.  The good news is they didn't find any problems with the casing.I have 3 hours of riveting video.   Relining it would be expensive.  They did find that a well that is/was rated at 7 GPM when it was drilled is now about 18 GPM.  This is based on their pump taking so long to draw the water down.  Their pump is rated 20-22.  We are thinking the increasing silt is related to whatever opened up in the ground.    After all of the pumping yesterday and me flushing the chlorine out today the water is running clear at the well.  It hasn't done that in a very long time.  I don't know if that will change.    

Their suggestion was an aerator type treatment for the iron in the water.  I don't have the height in my crawlspace for one.  I am limited to about 40" below the joists and maybe 48 to the subfloor.  I am wondering about a water softener, or just get a flushable pre-filter.  or both.  the water softener would be tied in after both of the filters.

I took this cutterhead off my 8" Jet Jointer. The cutterhead is in good shape and the blades are fairly new. I am also including the bearings which work well. Be sure to check shipping as this is heavy. I am also including the tool that comes with the jointer that allows you to install new knives.

This is very heavy so shipping could be pricey. I have not weighed the item but I would guess its 20 to 25 pounds. Shipping from 33487

Asking $75 plus shipping.

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I am just curious how others handle finishing raised panels. I have heard that you want to prefinish them to avoid revealing unfinished wood when the panel shrinks in dry weather. That seems to make sense. But do you just stain them?  Or do you stain and then put one coat of finish on them?  Or multiple coats and them mask them off when finishing the final assembly?

If you eventually put finish on the entire assembly is there a chance that the finish might “crack” at the intersection of the panel and stile during expansion and contraction?

I am sure that I am overthinking this like I do most things, but what is the “best” practice?

In the past I have stained and put on one coat of finish. Then assembled and applied finish to the entire assembly.  The panel just ends up with an extra coat.

Can someone give me an idea of what the consistency of Famowood should be? I have some that has dried out and is quite stiff. I have to fill some deep holes (3/8 to 1/2 inch). I have added acetone to it to make it easier to spread, but think it should probably be a lot thinner than I have it now. Any idea what the fresh, new consistency is? Like glazing compound/putty? like peanut butter? even thinner and sort of "sloppy"?

The project is utilitarian with cobbled together parts, so I would like to use the old Famowood (and use it as a learning experience).

Besides filling most of the holes with the regular consistency Famo, does it make sense to use a thin slurry to smooth out the final surface?

I'm relatively new to using fillers, so I would appreciate any suggestions from your experiences.

-W2W

You may remember my slice of humble pie posting a few weeks ago, where, because of an error I made creating the drawing, and not making a story stick, I built some doors that were too narrow for the opening.  Well, after digesting that for a few days I proposed a "fix", or to build new doors.  The fix was to add a piece of stock between the doors, attached to one door.  The drawing looked like this, except the new piece would have grooves in it just like the door panels. 




I didn't hear anything from the customer for over a week, so I contacted her to get her reaction.  She said she might be OK with it, but said she wanted to use a piece of rosewood for contrast.  OK, if you can find a piece of rosewood veneer, I'll use that.  Another week passed so I contacted her again.  This time she said she just didn't like the whole idea and would like to have new doors.  OK, I'll do that.  

But I'm pig headed at times, so I decided to build the center pieces and take the reworked doors to her and tell her to live with them for a couple of weeks.  If she still hated them, I'd make new ones.  Today was the day, and here's what they look like. 



The center panels are attached to the right doors.  There is a 3/8" groove on both edges of the panel to match the 3/8" horizontal gap between the two sets of doors.  



There is an astragal let into a rabbett on the back of the left door that fits into a rabbett in the right door to cover the gap between the doors.  






She didn't say much when I was there, but later I got a text apologizing for not paying me (I didn't expect her to today.) and that the doors were growing on her.  I take that as a good sign.  

As a side note, I used:  [font="Open Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Blum Compact Clip Soft-Close 5/8" Overlay, 2-Piece Screw-On [/font]hinges from WoodWorker's Hardware.  They are the only compact faceframe soft close hinges I've found with the clip-on feature and 3-way adjustability.  The clip-on feature made installation so much easier, especially when I had to take them down and then reinstall them.  Very nice hinges and features.  

John

I finished these just in time for Christmas for 2 new Grandkids born in December. I used some clear 12x1 pine shelving boards that I had on hand collecting dust. The tops are white oak. The plans were in the book "Furniture in the Southern Style" by Bob Lang and Glen Huey. 

   

   

   

   

As this thing has set long enough in the shop...
   
The sole will need sanded clean...
   
Iron is not the "prettiest gal" on the block...
   
Started to give a new edge....

Hardware LOOKS like it was made by Stanley..
   
Will know more once they are polished up...nothing was rusted in place...
Then I place a Stanley No. 80 behind this scraper...
   
And, some things just don't match up....Rusty & Krusty is slightly smaller, and lighter....Hmmmm?

Stay tuned...

Thoughts on buying the jig below. I know, Vevor, right? How bad can it be? OK, maybe I don't want to know the answer to that. I know others make good ones for $600-ish. I also know there are dozens/ hundreds of build your own videos out there. I know myself well enough that I will never spend more than $200 to buy one so those are out. I also know it's unlikely that I'll ever get enough round-to-its saved up to build my own in the foreseeable future. Primary use would be to flatten my workbench top and get rid of some battle scars. 20+ years old and it's due. Secondary, I'd like to have a dedicated jig to flatten the occasional live edge/ wide slab I come across. I'm getting into sawmilling so I see having some nice slabs to flatten down the road. If this thing isn't a total piece of junk I think it's got everything I need (for now) and nothing I don't and the price is worth it to me if it makes the job easier. Thoughts?

And I briefly considered hand planing my bench, but it's laminated beech with zero thoughts given to grain direction when I glued it up. So it's pretty gnarly. I think I would make it worse flattening by hand. I also have some pretty deep dings (~3/16") that I'd like to take out while I'm at it.

I think I'd spend at least this making my own out of 80/20 or similar and like I alluded above, my shop time is limited these days so I'm really leaning heavily toward a pre-made jig.