I have a long way to go to get these two planes back into service.  I am not sure if either is complete. One is pretty much complete but the other is not as much all there. Please let me know if I am missing some parts. I would like to get one complete and then sell the other for maybe a plow plane.

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks in advance for your help.

Tom

Looking for D Handle base for Porter Cable 690 router. I have several 690 model routers, would like to have a second D Handle base. Might also consider a complete 690 router with D handle base in good working condition if the price is right.

I have a new in box Work Sharp WS3000 that I won’t use - I haven’t even opened the box (can take a picture if you want to see a sealed box). It looks like the new price is $229 online, so how does $110 sound? I’m in the Charlotte and don’t think I can ship it.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/m...12262.html

I have two Delta 40-440 24” scroll saws that need to a new home. I bought these to restore but I am overwhelmed with projects right now and am running out of space. These machines are both in the condition I bought them – no work has been done to them.

They are both variable speed models and single phase. Both have the more stable welded stands. Both motors work. One of them is fully assembled and the other has been partially disassembled by the previous owner. I was assured that all parts are present and accounted for but I have not verified that.

In the interest of moving them along quickly I would like to get $175 for each of them or buy them both for $300. I can assist with delivery in a 100 mile radius of Winston Salem, NC area. I will also be traveling to Tifton GA in late April and cam bring one or both of them along.

Thanks for looking
Rick

   

   

A rainy Saturday,

Catching up on some watch-strap leather work and shoe-heel rubber work.
A nice cutting edge gets 90% of the trimming done,  then I'll move to power sanding equipment.

   

DELETE............

I posted about a new RAS Miter Table up in the Woodworking section.  Link  



It's 32 x 17" and fits most any RAS.  The unit is made from 3/4" plywood and comes with the hardware needed to install it on your RAS.  I make it on my CNC, so tolerances are very tight.  You will need to drill 4 holes in your table, one for the 1/4" pivot, one for the table lock, and two for the fine adjustment bracket. Installation takes less than 30 minutes.  Removing and reinstalling the miter table is done in less than 1 minute.  

The unit costs $95 (PayPal or check) and includes shipping within the CONUS.  Shipment is about 1 week.  

John

I developed a pretty sophisticated miter table for my RAS a year or so ago, so you can cut miters at any angle w/o having to pivot the saw arm.  When the arm stays locked at 90 degrees it never loses accuracy.  Several folks here expressed an interest in buying one.  Turns out, that unit is very time consuming and expensive to produce, so I haven't gone forward with it.  After I got my new Dewalt GA, I thought about developing a miter table that was simpler and easier and less costly to produce.  After some design work and testing, I have a unit that I think folks with a RAS might find useful.  



I call it a rotary miter table.  The unit is installed onto your RAS table with a dowel pin for the pivot.  It's held in place with the lock knob you see at the front of the table.  It rotates right and left beyond 40 degrees.  





There is a fine adjust bracket at the front so that you can adjust the angle to well less than 1/4 degree.  



The table gives a cut capacity of over 12" at any angle.



The table is about 32 x 17" and will fit on most any RAS.  Here it is on my 925. 



And on my GWI.



To install it, you remove the stock fence; the miter table has its own fence.  You drill a 1/4" hole in the main table for the dowel pin that the miter table rotates on.  



The miter table indexes onto the dowel pin.  The fine adjust bracket is installed at the front of the main table.  I used two screws, but threaded inserts also could be used, which is what I used for the lock knob.  It's set off the C/L so there's no danger of running the blade into it.  



Alignment is very simple.  Just align the mark at 90 degrees with the kerf.  Do a test cut.  If the angle is off, move the fine adjust bracket left or right.  Make a new test cut.  When the cut is a perfect 90 degrees, it's all set.  All other angles should be perfect.  I checked the cuts at 45 degrees left and right and they were spot on without fine tuning. 





A benefit of this miter table is that it provides support to the cutoff piece, both the fence and table.  It's simple to install and simple to use, probably easier to use than a miter saw.  Additionally, it's relatively small, so it's easily stored when not needed.  The fence is screwed on from the bottom, so it's easy to replace it as needed.  

I'll put an ad down in the Swap and Sell section for anyone who might want to buy one.  

John

Think ladderback chair with curved uprights, three curved back pieces, a 1X2 seat support, and a bottom rung.  That's 10 M&T joints (20 glue applications) that need to be glued up at the same time.  The dry fit went together (finally) but it took these old hands quite a while, and I'm concerned about getting it all together without glue drying up or getting it all over me and everything else - despite using Titebond III with a decent set time.  Given the configuration, I do not think just doing one side at a time is feasible unless the second side follows immediately.

I'm thinking about applying glue to the tenons first, especially the end grain that normally needs two coats anyway, then the mortices.  This might mean that some of the tenons could be partially dry before completing all the joints.  Do you think this is will not compromise the strength of the joints?  Any other ideas?