During the week of NOT have a computer...spent a bit of time more than normal IN the shop.....Still had some leftover KIWI Pine to use up...
Like 4 strips to form the sides of a small box..
   
Through Dovetails on the corners...a panel cut to fit inside for a bottom...another cut to be a beveled edge lid...half of which got glued in place..
   
The  the lid was cut into 2 sections....with a shallow rebate all along the edges...
   
The "half" of the lid that was to open, needed mortises chopped to house a pair of hinges...so that as small a gap between the 2 halves could be made...
   
Original "Plan" was that this was to be a slide out tray...so, a small wooden peg "Knob" was installed...but...

I added a few "Extra Parts" to kind of dress it up a bit..
   
Like a handle to lift the lid to open the box...and a few corner details...Witch's Brew for the stain..then a coat of Warm Gloss Poly..
Was delivered to a friend Monday...what she decides to stash in it, is her business...
Thanks for looking in...

Wow

Hi,

I'm rebuilding the lattice that sits on top of our fence.  The original just had the slats stapled where they meet and many of them have failed.  The 2nd picture shows the assembly jig I made.  You'll note that some of the squares have been removed in order to make is easy for the slat pieces to fit.  (In retrospect, I probably didn't need a square at every intersection point...oh well...I had some time on Saturday with nothing to do).


The 3rd picture shows my TS jig to cut the wide dadoes.  The problem is that I can't make a dado the width of the slats (IIRC, they're about 1 7/16" wide).  I seem to recall there's some sort of half-lap jig that allows the key to be slid over once you make the 1st cut to accommodate the entire width of the slat, but I can't seem to find it.  The front fence slides to the right somehow??  (Did the Woodsmith Shop do an episode where they made one?)  

I realize it'll be a lot of bending over the TS to make my cuts.  I think I've got 4 8 feet sections and 2 smaller sections to make.  Ouch.

Also I'd rather got the TS route vs the router route as I think the TS will be more accurate, once I get the jig dialed in.

Got any plans/sites that show how to build one?

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Sommerville Mass CL. Posting as a PSA, don't see these every day. I have zero knowledge of the seller or the plane.

[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/d/somerville-lie-nielsen-no-51-shooting/7825229992.html[/font]

[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]Lie Nielsen No. 51 Shooting Plane (right handed). New in box. Comes with pine LN box (no longer offered).[/font]

[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]More pics at the link[/font]

[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif][/font]

SOLD!

NEW OLD STOCK - $550 Shipped (CONUS)

Vicmarc VM100 Chuck Kit
1"-8 Adapter
2" Dovetail Jaws
Woodworm Screw
Wrenches & Insert Lever

PLUS -
1" Dovetail Jaws VMJ2590
3" Dovetail Jaws VMDJ7090
4" Dovetail Jaws VMDJ90
Extended Dovetail Jaws VMJ3590
1-3/4" Shark Jaws VMJSP4590
Step Jaws VMSJ90

The chuck and all jaws are all chrome plated. Newer versions of the jaws are cheaper black oxide.

Some model numbers have changed or been discontinued.

Everything is in pristine condition. It all looks new to me. Still in the packing grease.

Will not separate. Must buy all together.

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Some years ago I made a couple of these for family, and recently got requests for other friends and family for some more  Sort of a parody on the "We Three Kings" Christmas theme - three guys on a rare 3-humped camel following a star.  From what I read, the "Magi" were not actually kings but philosophers and curious wise-guys of the sort likely akin to present-day "nerds".  Also, apparently the trek Eastward after noticing an odd confluence of stars occurred from two to four years after the Bethlehem birth but the early Christians adopted the tale to reinforce the "King of Kings" idea.

I could not find the somewhat larger "people" used before so settled for smaller ones from Hobby Lobby, which may be better suited to the concept of "wee three kings" anyway.  I had enough SYP to make two and the others are from common white pine.  Made 6.

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I have been using Hock plane blades over the past 20 years with no issues. I have a #3 that I picked up a few years ago, but set it aside and let it collect dust. A few weeks back, decided to get it in working order. Blade was pitted pretty bad so I ordered a Hock blade for it. Cleaned up the back and honed the edge. I did notice that while I was able to get it sharp, it was not getting quite as sharp as I like.  Tested it on some scrap wood. First pass worked, then subsequent passes, nothing but scrapped dust.  Inspected the edge and it was crumbled. 

I sharpened it again, but the edge crumbled. 

Ground the bevel on the Tormek and honed the edge as normal.  Again, the same problem.

Did a little more work on the back, and sharpened again. I will say that the blade was very flat to begin with so that did not take much effort.

Again, the same problem.  

Last thing I tried last night was grinding away some material on a CBN wheel. Going into the shop today to focus on that plane and see if I can get to the point of good steel on the blade. I have probably removed a touch more than 1/32” of the edge at this point. I have had this problem with a 1-1/2” Ray Iles chisel before, but never had this issue with Hock irons. 

Whats the chances that it is only the edge of the steel versus the entire blade having a bad steel/heat treatment?

I have two different sized Gerstner Tool Chests, both missing the front panel that holds in the drawers for transportation, and folds under when in use.  Neither is these chests will be overly valuable when done.  One was vinyl covered (needs new covering) the second was also missing a drawer.  Point is I don't want to spend "big bucks" on locks.  Gerstner has original ones for $75.00, which is too rich for me.

The front panels are 1/2" thick, and there isn't much room behind them.  I am looking for lower cost locks "similar" to the one pictured.  (that is not a Gerstner).  It should be kind of a dead bolt style that mortises into the panel.  I've looked on Amazon, and Van Dykes, and haven't found the right one.  I only need close, not perfect.
Got any ideas?  Maybe a sliding latch?

Thanks

   

   

   

Some years ago I switched from a Delta Unisaw to a SawStop Professional saw, and have never regretted making ti (expensive) switch. Love the SawStop. I've tripped the brake about three times. Cost of a new blade and a cartridge about $150, but that amount wouldn't even get you past the front desk at the emergency ward. 
Yesterday when ripping a short length of walnut, the saw decided to lower the blade below the table, without cutting power to the blade. Retrieved the piece I'd been ripping, tried to complete the cut, and had the same problem. Then I tried just turning on power but not running any material into the blade, and the blade slowly lowered itself below the table. Tried to raise it with the elevation whee., and the control refused to raise.  Lowered the control and then raised it and it brought the blade back up to full height. Tried it again, same thing. It took the blade about 30 to 40 seconds to lower beneath the table top. I then submitted a problem report to Saw Stop, and received a reply that they'd get back to me as soon as they could. Waiting for a reply, just for grins I decided to remove the cartridge and then reseat it. Sure enough, quick no-cost fix, let the bsaw running for several minutes, and it remained at its set height.  Forr a test I ran a 4 foot length of particle board through the saw, making half a dozen cuts, and the blade remained at the set height  I repplied to SawStop's response to my initial report, describing what I'd done, letting them know the case number could now be closed.  And now I know what to try if I ever encounter this problem again.

My wife has been on me to do something about the finish on our kitchen cabinets. Overall they are in pretty good shape but a couple of drawers and doors have some wear and tear on them. I would prefer to touch up the worn places instead of doing a total refinish but matching finish colors isn't one of my strongpoints. 

I figure I can get one of the drawers, probably the one in the picture below since it's the worst, and see if I can match the color adequately. If not, then I guess a total refinish would be in order.

Anyone have any thoughts or experience doing this?

TIA!