Of all the stuff built over 50+ years, I had never tackled chairs. So a while ago I started out to build two light-weight ones for a dinette set. I had some things in mind: (1) For the first time ever I would just "wing it" instead of first drawing up every piece and joint, often full scale; (2) try to build them with the tools, jigs and machines on hand and not buy anything; (3) use no hardware; and (4) use only various cutoffs instead of full boards from my stash of prime walnut lumber.  Joints would be M&T using T88 glue.

Sorry I am not good at the build-alongs like some on here, and also not good at photography in any case.  Here is the clamp-up for one of the backs:
   

and a dry fit:

   
Which is when I discovered two mortices off by about an eighth of an inch.  So fill and recut - tenon shoulders masked the boo-boo.

Final product, finished with Medium Walnut Watco oil:
   

I decided to just make slatted flat seats and use a bolstered chair pad.  And I did use small brads to attach the seat slats "just 'til the glue dries". 

And that is the last time I will ever just "wing it". 

Do post preservatives (like the one linked here) actually work?
I also saw a Wranglertar video some time ago that repurposed used engine oil for the same benefti.
Do these techniques actually work?

I'm curious because the nice pole barn my property came with has the 6x6 posts in the ground and while I don't see any rot yet, the structure is some 30 years old and I don't want post rot becoming an issue in my lifetime (I'm 39 yo - for the 21st time 
 ).

Selling a few items. All prices are the price shipped.

Stewart McDonald Dremel router base $50 I’m including a solid carbide 1/32, 1/16” and 1/8” spiral bits for another $20. The 1/32 and 1/16 are new Onsrud bits. The bits are about $35 ea new.
Lignomat Moisture Meter $50
A Line it saw calibration tool. $30 (sold)
Marples mortise chisels 1/4-3/8 $30 for pair (Sold)
Apollo HVLP spray gun with PPS system. This gun can be used with a turbine or air compressor with the included adapter. It also comes with a box of disposable cups. $175. I am having issues posting photos so if you would like to see photos just message me and I can text them or email them to you.

This 10.5in by 2.5in bowl features the University of Notre Dame ND cut out of Black Walnut inlayed in the bottom of a piece of Red Oak. 2 segmented Oak rings and one Black Walnut ring make up the sides. The bowl is finished with Waterlox gloss

I have a Delta tablesaw that I’ve had for over 25 years.  A few years ago I had to replace the switch, and a few folks here were kind enough to help me out with that.  I now have another problem that I hope someone can help me with.
Having way too many family health and death issues for about 5 years, my shop sat idle.  During that time I had solar installed complete with battery and a new electrical panel.  Once I got my life in order and headed back out to the shop, when I fired up my table saw, it engaged for about 1/10 of a second, and stopped.  I could not get it to start again.  I took the motor to a shop, and replaced the switch only to realize that the wires in the plug (wall side) were singed and the white wire had broken.  So after replacing everything, the saw worked fine…for a while.  It stopped again this weekend, and the wires in the plug are singed once again, and it won’t start.  Before I buy another switch (about $90), can someone tell me if the switch is working?  After the first failure, an electrician asked me about the part of the switch that the arrow is pointing to in the picture.  He told me to press it, but I don’t recall what was supposed to happen.  It depressed, but pops right back out.  Is that what it is supposed to do?  There are no visible wire singes in the switch, it still looks brand new. It’s not the circuit breaker.  I always have the dust collector on when the TS is on and both are 220.  I’m wondering if when they put the new panel in they didn’t know that that’s what I was doing and didn’t allow for that. 

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

   

Are there any old timers on here who remember way back when a lot of WoodNetters bought a Palmgren planer? Does anyone know if there is any way to obtain any parts for these machines? I was using mine today when it coughed up some plastic fan blades that were part of the sawdust evacuation duct. I don’t think there are parts available but I sure would like to fix this planer. It has been a very good planer.

Thanks

Hey all,

I'm trying to understanding the framing around my garage door (2-car) so I can hang a couple lumber racks above the torsion spring. I'm not understanding how this is framed based on what I'm reading on my stud finder, so I'm hoping someone here can provide insight. House was built in 1986 and uses 2x8s for joists everywhere I can see (e.g., unfinished basement) as opposed to wood I-beams or LVL. There is living space above the garage.

In the first picture, I show the space above the garage door, with the garage door framing to hold the brackets and spring on the surface. The second picture shows where I detect studs (?) behind the drywall above the opening, indicated by green lines. Surprisingly, I only detect horizontal items, not any vertical ones. Tapping on the drywall with my hand sounds hollow, which would roughly confirm this. There appears to be a double top place (top green line). The middle line appears to be 1.5" tall, although it reads as 3" in some spots. The bottom line is hard to tell on height since it goes behind the surface-mounted garage door framing. But it's only about 4.5" from the finished opening, so it can't be a header.

Nothing reads as 2x12 headers or similar.

Looking at the corner of the opening gives a little insight into what's behind the drywall:

• A - "surface" mounted garage door framing. It sits 1/2" below the drywall, so it's attached to whatever is below the drywall
  
• B - 5/8" plywood
  
• C - small piece of plywood seemingly covering the vertical stud
  
• D - 2x4 (not 2x's stacked next to each other)
  

The collar on my RAS fits against a shoulder on the motor arbor.  After lots of testing, I'm quite sure that shoulder is not exactly true.  I machined an aluminum collar to test runout, and remachined the inboard steel collar, as well.  Both measure about 0.002" of runout at their 4" OD.  At the OD of a 12" blade I typically measure around 0.005 - 0.006", which is exactly what would expect from the collar runout.  I've tried shifting the collars and blade in relationship to each other without significant improvement, meaning those are pretty true.  And that brings me back to the motor arbor shoulder.  

Is there a way to true that shoulder without having to take the motor apart and take it to a machine shop?  I would have to think there's some approach that's been developed for in the field fixes when people can't disassemble or move equipment.  I'm all ears if you know of a way.  Of course, I can take it apart, etc., but then I'll be faced with having to retune the saw.  

Or can a machine shop do it when the motor is still assembled?  Then I would only have to remove the motor and not take it completely apart.  

John

I'm continually amazed at what I can do on my hobby level CNC.  Today I flattened a blade collar for my RAS to make sure it's parallel with the other face.  I only took off 0.015", nothing serious.  Still, it was a no drama endeavor.  I used a lot of tapping fluid to keep the endmill as cool as I could.  



That circular gauge near the hole happened just from tightening it against the motor arbor shoulder, not even turning the motor on, suggesting the shoulder is not a true surface.  

John

Years in the making, this 11x4in bowl was made with some rotten crabapple and alumilite Clear Slow resin. It was coated with Alumilite quick coat resin before being finally finished with Waterlox Gloss.