From a chunk of Red Cedar stump to an artistic vase. This 11x6in vase features fire blackened cut outs and rim. It was finished with 5 coats of Waterlox Gloss.

Old Disston stock bandsaw blades 10’ 5”, 125in bandsaw blades 6tpi, 3/4in wide blade temper A set R
5 blades per carton, would like to sell $50 per box + shipping. Send email/pm with contact info if need pictures more info send cell#/email. Blades are in sealed box opened up 1 carton blades are clean.

Working on a desk for my daughter. Legs are maple, top is purpleheart.

I'm already aware of purpleheart's ability to change color, and how much variation there seems to be in how the wood reacts over time due to different species (some seem to get purple after cutting, some get the purple later, all seem to lose the purple color eventually). I'm fine with all this. The piece I have seems to be keeping it's purple color well (granted, not a lot of direct sunlight exposure). And the darker color down the road could be good as I'm sure my daughter will grow out of "I want a purple desk phase".

I'm more concerned with the writing surface itself. I want it to be smooth enough that you can write on it with no problem. I have a desk made out of cherry where I finished with shellac and it seems to be fine. But the purpleheart seems to have a bit larger pores (but not much, definitely not like oak). Will finishing it with a water based UV resistant finish deal with the pores well enough, or do I need to look into filling the grain?

(My other finish option would be something like shellac, but I'm guessing a UV resistant coating will hold the color for longer)

I’m building a corner workbench and I’m going to layer two 3/4 MDF panels together as the substrate for the top. I plan on putting a lot of screws spaced throughout the panel and was wondering would this be sufficient or should I also glue the panels with tightbond. Opinions?

Thanks

A twin to a saw I made for a gent down in Georgia. Mahogany classic series, size Reg. 12" x 2 " x 0.020" @ 16 ppi also. Just a simple sleek appearance, ( I hope ).$300.00



Mahogany classic series 38* hang by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />



20250316_150827 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />



20250316_150834 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />



20250316_150838 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />



Thank you. Please note: I do not receive PMs from this site for some reason.

One hears that term a lot on some sites...sometimes they claim ONLY a $400 smoothing plane can work on it...or, some fancy machine?
Well....here are 4 Ash boards to consider...
   
These four are 3/4" x 6" x 4'....seller had run them threw his planer to get from 4/4 down to ALMOST 3/4" thick...
Other faces of the 4?
   
Handsome devils, aren't they?  $0.80bft Ash, BTW...

This MIGHT be a bit of "FUN"..
Stay tuned...

Yes this is an old lathe, from 40's or 50's, but it has been doing what I need it to do for about 6 years. One issue with the head stock is that it spins oil out of the bearings. The bearings are not sealed so the headstock is essentially an oil reservoir to lubricate the bearings. There are caps on the ends with felt that are supposed to keep the oil on the inside. Who knows when these felt caps were last replaced. I have two thoughts. 1) Try to find the correct felt material and try to fashion replacements. 2) Buy a modern sealed bearing to replace the old bearings. The manual says they are a timken bearings but give no specifications. Any thoughts on either of these working?

Another problem I have noticed is the headstock is about 1/16" lower than the tailstock. I am not sure how the headstock could have dropped over time. There is nothing under the tailstock raising it up. I think this might have been a mistake back when it was made. Since the headstock appears to just bolt to the bed I was thinking of getting some metal shim stock and placing it between the bed and the headstock. Any other thoughts?

I need a replacement charger for DEWALT power drills. The current charger is a DCB101. Can I replace that with a DCB 115?
Thanks

I’m seeking an updated toilet recommendation. I reviewed the most recent thread about high flow toilets but that didn’t seem to meet my need. The other/older threads seem outdated since the most common toilet recommendation, the American Standard Cadet 3 has been discontinued.
What is the current recommendation considering performance, reliability, availability and price? Toto is overpriced in my view. I’m open to other manufacturers.
We’ve not had performance problems with the builder-grade Ferguson toilet other than the porcelain has deteriorated. The current toilet is elongated bowl and chair/ADA height with flange mounting and standard hardware. The current configuration seems ok.
While the discussion is open, are there any advantages/disadvantages of one piece vs. two piece other than housekeeping. We’re amenable to either design.
What’s current thinking and recommendations?
Thanks in advance for the advice.

I am trying to finish a dinning room bench made from shoddy plans.  I just realized if I attach a 6 foot alder boards to these bench legs with pocket holes wood movement will likely affect the bench later on.

The leg structure is made of dimensional lumber and the top of the bench will be two 6/4 alder boards joined.  The pocket holes are already drilled into the stretchers.  How do I fix this to allow for wood movement differential of the legs vs bench top?