So I've got a "roof raise" project that I've been working on (for too long). Customers wanted to change siding color from white to grey on the whole house at some point in the near future, so I put the new color on my new work. The new 28 x 38 second floor sits on a 26 x 70+ ranch so there's somewhere between 1700 and 2000 square ft. of vinyl siding to be removed. About 2/3 of that has wide clap boards underneath. The window door casings stay as I'll be putting 3/4" foam to bring it flush for siding. I asked a young guy (late 20's early 30's) if he wanted to quote to strip and load in my dumpster. I'll add that he has been charging me $32.50/Hr.. I even offered to let him do the back (about 5 square) by the hour to help him guesstimate his time. He said he just had to measure. I told him it was more important to know how much had clapboards too, and gave him some advice based on how I've done it in the past. (He did listen and genuinely thank me.) I pointed to a wall section about 12'x 9'; he said; Just vinyl, only about 10 minutes, but (he) still had to pick up and load it. I suggested I would lay out a tarp, lay 2 or 3 short ropes next to the wall, drop the vinyl siding somewhat neatly on the ropes so I could tie up a bundle to take to the dumpster. Now you still have to pull (or bang in) some nails and bring the tarp to the next section, then grab a water or take a leak, so call it 30 minutes. He agreed. How about I pay you for an hour, (for 100 sq. ft.) then I won't care how many breaks you take. Sounded really good to him! He just gave me a quote of $5000! That's more than double what I expected.

Question is, how do I diplomatically tell him he's out of his f-ing mind? I think we're too far apart for him to save face. He's over $250/sq. and I esimated $200/sq. including the mat'ls and labor for foam board or Typar and taped joints. That's based on $100/Hr. + overhead+ 15% for me doing something that doesn't require my experience or desire to do.

There's a saying that goes something like "Diplomacy is telling someone to go to hell in a manner that they'll actually look forward to making the trip."

Pulled up carpet and the tack strips, despite my best efforts there are multiple divots where the tacks were. I know best and easy don't go together often but looking for a filler that might be both or at least some ideas on best way to fill. Thanks.

Good afternoon - I"m looking for some hands experienced folks who can compare the Incra 1000SE to the Jessum 07150 miter gauges.  If one had both and wanted to slim the herd which one should he keep?

Rick

I have a shop with a metal roof that has black algae on it I was wondering what is the best way to clean it.

UPDATE: I changed course on this.  Please see new thread “finger pull dimensions”.

Thx


I added a more legible attachment/diagram.

I’ve resurrected a long dormant project and realize i made a calculation error  that now requires a creative solution. I have an idea but want to get the forum opinion on whether the aesthetics  check out.

The project consists of (4) oak plywood boxes  that will be fastened together to creat a built-in credenza that sits on the floor below an existing built-in book shelf system. The credenza will consist of (2) bookshelf boxes and (2) drawer boxes with inset drawers …. which is where the mistake occurred.

 Originally the drawer fronts were going to be oak ply with 3/4” square edging to finish the ply edges. Midstream,  I decided to simplify the front building and I purchased and cut solid oak boards.

 The inside height of the box’s are 23.5”. 

Box #2 is loaded  with (2) file drawers requiring (3) reveal / gaps between drawers and the carcass.. The drawer front board is 11.25” x 2 drawers = 22.5 leaving 1”  divided by 3 reveals = a bit more that 5/16” per reveal.

Box #3 is loaded with (1) file drawer and (2) smaller drawers. The file drawer front is 11.25 x 1, small drawer front is 5.5” x 2 = 22.25, leaving 1.25” divided by 4 reveals = .3125 = 5/16

i was originally planning on 1/8” reveals .

I see 2 solutions (see crude, not to scale diagram attached):

A. Simply Make up for the short fall by adding a strip of oak board to the top of each drawer front that  would be uniform thickness for all file drawers. At minimum it would be about  5/16 but could be more if aesthetic call for it (and I would rip the existing front slab to accommodate).


B. Integrate an oak drawer pull across the entire width of each drawer that sits proud of the top of the front (and makes up the shortfall).   See cross sections diagram. This would replace the original plan for shop-made oak pulls that would have been roughly 1/3 the width iof the drawer, centered and located in the typical vertical position.

Appreciate any thoughts about A or B or perhaps something else.

Thanks for looking.

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of making a bowl, vase or box anyway you wish to make it and post it here on this like.

I am glad I am finally back after doing some major upgrades in the shop in the last 8 months and I feel the GREAT NEED to turn again.  For me I want to make something eye catching and then donate it to a worth cause to action off.

What do you think everyone?   Maybe even find a cause to let time auction them?  

Does anyone have a nice wall set up for say a #1 -#6 and a few saws that I can build easy plans.  I know I can not turn one. 

Hello All,

Due to a stroke and inexorable age, my serious woodworking career has about ended.  Meanwhile, I have a good supply of usable lumber and plywood available for anyone who can pick it up.
I hate to see it go to waste, and my daughter who will inherit it will not know, or care much, what to do with it.
Includes good supply of prox 1x8 walnut.
When enough is gone, there will also be an excellent wood rack which breaks down into manageable pieces.
May also include some small tools for an aspiring woodworker.
Post here for details or email:  rwalden@rwalden.com

I live in Forsyth County, Georgia.  ZIP 30028

Regards,
Russ Walden

I have two dust collectors on opposite sides of my shop.  Each is 1 1/2 hp, wired 240v.  Wondering if I can operate on two remote switches without turning on both at the same time. 

Said another way, do the remote switches all operate on the same radio frequencies?  If yes, may they be adjusted?  Do different brands use different frequencies?  

thanks for suggestions,
tom

I have a Harvey C14 bandsaw and I’m looking for a blade that will give good quality cuts. Hoping to find something that will give smooth sand ready

I have had bad luck with Timberwolf blades. Several breaking at the weld after shortly after changing or after one project. Personally I consider them are junk.

I have used regular carbon Lennox blades when I had a small bandsaw and liked the performance they gave.

Now that I have a bigger bandsaw capable of resawing I need a good resaw blade that isn’t $200. Size blade the saw takes is 125” and the manual saws it can handle 1” but seems like it would max out the tension with that wide of a blade.