I don't remember when I first learned about French Cleats, but I am finally ditching the pegboard and very happy with the results!

https://youtu.be/7i3Xl4bO8zI?si=vU36XEDMwu9JRcSj

Paul M

Hey everyone, I'm adding a switch to a project, and I haven't wired one up before. The pics show the switch and diagram. I'm wondering 

A) why the switch has three tabs, not two
B) why the diagram shows the negative, white line as hot

Both of those are different from other things I read and watch. 

I case you're curious, I have a box with a power strip mounted inside. I need to be able to switch it from the outside. So I'm mounting this switch on the outside and wiring it in the cord.

Thanks!

       

First, terms. I'm an old fart and don’t have paypal or any other EFT gizmos, so payment by US Postal money order please, unless I recognize you from the forum then checks are ok; all prices are plus shipping and I’ll combine items to get you the best rate. First Private Message with an unequivocal “I’ll take it” gets priority in line and I’ll respond to every PM promptly with the best shipping rate via USPS. Please put your name and full shipping address in the PM so I can print shipping labels, this avoids a lot of back and forth. Multiple pics of the tools are in the link to a Flickr album, pics are in the order of my descriptions. Flaws, if any, are noted and pointed out as apologies and prices asked reflect those apologies.
Here's a link to the Flickr album with the pics:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/9433588@N08/albums/72177720326482811/

BOTH ARE SOLD    First we have two Millers Falls #9 smoothers (Stanley #4 size, and the MF is the equal in quality to the Stanley). Both are very crispy, 95%++ original japanning, all original parts, I squared off the irons and reset the bevel of both irons with my Tormek, and mated the chipbreakers. In the first pic, the one on the right is the first set of detailed pics. Again, both are in very nice condition, no apologies except for the one on the left (second set) has a tote repair (solid) and a chip on the tote horn, but its japanning is a bit more crispy than the other one. Either plane will make a fine user. Take your pick for $40 plus shipping, you won't be sorry you did.

Next up is the Veritas chisel plane, they call it the "Cabinetmakers Trimming Plane," with the box. Gently used, pristine, as new. You can read about it in the Lee Valley description. Excellent value and can be yours for $125 plus shipping.

SOLD   Next is a truly vintage Stanley 9 1/2 block plane; older model (patent date on top of lever cap) and all original, "Triangle" logo on iron dates to 1918; overall good shape, sharpen and hone the iron and you are in business. Loss of japanning on heel of lever cap, which given its age is to be expected; an old codger used this a lot and took good care of it, I picked it off the studs of an old one car garage where it likely sat for the last 60 years. Good value at $35 plus shipping .

SOLD   Next up is the Veritas Medium router plane in the box; read about it on Lee Valley's site. This one has never been used, if you've got the large router plane, the blades will fit, this one was sold by Veritas without a blade, so you'll have to buy one if you don't have one. Good for the smaller jobs where more precision is needed, a worthy companion to the Large Router. Yours for $105 plus shipping.

SOLD    Last up is a full set (#4 through #16) of Irwin pattern brace bits (note the $16 is a Jennings pattern, but that's a bonus); all in great shape, lead screws not buggered and good to excellent flute length on each bit, they are also sharp. I had an extra Stanley Jennings bit roll so I put the bits in it for ease of storage. Yours for $80 plus shipping.

Quality tools I would own, priced reasonably. Some of these won't be around for long given the pricing, so if you've got a puptent in your shop apron for something don't hesitate, snooze and lose. So again, please read the payment terms above. In your PM  please include your name and shipping address so I can print mailing labels, this cuts down on a lot of back and forth replies.

Thanks for looking.

SWMBO wants an undermount sink, but doesn't want the expense of granite or quartz, so we chose a laminate that she likes. 
I see some options out there for installing an undermount sink with a laminate countertop and they appear to be reliable.
Have you done this and what method did you use? 
Any issues or concerns with installation and longevity/use of which I should be aware?
Will the water eventually leak its way past epoxy sealants and damage the substrate anyway?

One of the methods I found incorporates the sink into the countertop substrate and results in gluing the laminate to the top rim of the undermount sink. That precludes ever being able to change out the sink without significant inconvenience.

One idea that I thought of that I haven't seen yet is to penetrate a chosen wood species with cactus juice and use that to make a rim of sorts (sections would have to be glued together with epoxy) under which the undermount sink would mount. This wooden rim would be integral to the rest of the substrate (which will be made with quality plywood) and the laminate would be glued on top of both the wooden rim and the rest of the countertop substrate, but not the sink. The exposed rim would be coated with epoxy and can be refinished as needed.
One advantage is that the chosen wood species would match the cabinets and the undermount sink can be changed out if needed with another sink of the same size if that were needed due to damage or something. Perhaps that still holds the same risk with water eventually leaking under the laminate if the epoxy sealants fail to protect.
Of course the chosen wood species couldn't be something porous like red oak without being well sealed. In my case it would be hickory, which has closed pores.
One disadvantage might be that if ever the cabinets are changed out (which is unlikely in my case) then the wood species at the sink rim wouldn't match unless the countertop is changed out too - which it probably would be anyway if I'm changing the cabinets.

What are your thoughts on this whole idea of an undermount sink with a laminate countertop?

thanks!

Miter Trimmer in new condition. $175

Only used for a couple test cuts. Decided I preferred my shooting board. Comes with the top trim attachment for trimming bevels.

Too heavy to ship so pick up only in Fort Wayne, IN.

https://flic.kr/p/2r7M2k6
https://flic.kr/p/2r7MYzN

To get used to the House...
   
Took a bit to haul these 1 x 6 and 1 x 8 planks into the house..Ash IS a bit heavy, after all...
   
Most are 6' long..the bottom half?
   
"Shorty" is a 1 x 8 x 37" plank...

Lots of live edges...
   
Including 3 from the same section of the log...Flat sawn.  

Project?  Wait and see....

Cost?   $26 total...plus I needed to cut a couple 12 footers down, to fit in the trunk of my Chevy Equinox LT....

And hanging up up the Kitchen wall..
   
And, being loaded up..
   
Project is completed...

And..it was the "Pick of the Litter" of the 6 that were all tangled up in a pile...
   
10" sweep.  Chuck WILL hold even the round shanked drill bits...
   
All it needs is a bit of a clean up....everything works nicely.  

Any ideas out there, about who made this drill?    Thinking Gooddell Pratt Co. but not sure...maybe a No. 1052?

I have an old saw collection, that includes the Disston No 12 that you can see on the attached photos. It is in pretty good condition, cuts perfectly straight. The only defect is that a small chip is missing from one of the horns on the handle.

I wonder how much this saw worths recently? I have purchased it decades ago, back then it was not very expensive. Recently when I checked the saw stock on ebay, I saw some pretty suprising numbers for this saw. 

                       

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I'm working on a staircase project in our home and considering using the design linked below for the new balusters. We have an Arts and Craft theme and the LOML and I like the way this looks. Material will be QSWO. I do not have any dimensions on the design of the balusters but am guessing they are 5/8" to 3/4" thick and the holes look to be ~1/2" square. 

Question is: What is the best, quickest and easiest way to make the 4 hole pattern? Obviously there will be quite a number to make, i.e. staircase handrails and bannister on landing/loft area.

Baluster

Options I've thought of:

1) Hollow Chisel Mortiser - I have a Delta 14-651 Hollow Chisel Mortiser and have made some test cuts. The quality of the holes doesn't seem to pass the quality test. A little ragged and some tearout on the bottom, even with a backer board. I'm using the original chisel that came with the unit.

2) Make a "perfect" pattern out of wood, overlaying it on to the work piece. Drill out each square with a 7/16" Forstner bit and then trim the perimeter and corners with a corner chisel.

3) Considered a router solution (after drilling out primary hole) but not sure bits with bearings would work well enough in such a confined space to be productive and/or accurate. 

Is there a better solution I'm not thinking about?

Thanks,

Doug