+- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net)
+-- Thread: Finger pull dimensions (/showthread.php?tid=7378544)
Finger pull dimensions - test123 - 05-21-2025
I have another thread going “mistake correction…” but decided to go in a different direction and felt it is more clear to start a new thread.
Building a set of drawer boxes as part of a built-in credenza Made of oak ply with solid oak fronts and edging. I’m going to create an integrated finger pull detail across the the top of each 30” wide drawer (some of which will be lateral file drawers).The goal of the pulls is to clean up the look and lines of the drawer fronts and also correct a mistakes I made in sizing the solid oak fronts.
In thinking about the finger pulls, I want to minimize the amount of projection and am also concerned about the strength of the integrated finger pulls given the weight capacity of the file drawers.
The finger pull profile will be routed into a piece of oak 1x board attached across the full width of each drawer front. See attached hand-cad.
Questions:
1. Because the pulls will not be easily visable, is a simple round nose profile good enough or is therer a functional advantage to a more “exotic” finger pull profile?
2. Thinking about the dimensions of the profile that would be strong, functional and minimize projection:
- Can the height of the profile (C on the diagram) be as little as 1/2”?
- Can the depth of the profile (B on diagram) be 1/2” or is 3/4“ the minimum?
- How how much “meat” should be left on the leading edge (A on the diagram)?
4. Finally, my plan is to attach the oak 1x board (with the routed profile) to the top of the drawer front with a simple butt joint —glued, pin nailed, clamped to full dry. Is this likely strong enough… or..a big mistake?
Thanks for looking (again).
RE: Finger pull dimensions - Bill Holt - 05-22-2025
No expert here. I like your design, and I understand you only have 3/4" stock. My concern is strength on file drawers. I think I would go with a 3/4" cove bit at a depth of 7/16". Because of the strength issue, I would stop the cove, like you said.
RE: Finger pull dimensions - joe1086 - 05-22-2025
In my full time job we move a lot of documents in bankers boxes (litterally tons). A 24" long bankers box can weigh 50-60 lbs. Add that to the weight of the drawer and that's potenitally considerable stress looking at your cross sections.
I'd consider getting the top pull board laminated to a 1" thickness so your "A" dimension and the corresponding dimension at the top of the cove could thicken up to at least 3/8". Your drawing appears that "A" is currnently about 1/4".
Either that, or get some cool looking metal drawer pulls.
RE: Finger pull dimensions - BrentDH - 05-22-2025
I agree that stopping the cove an inch or so from each end is a very good idea. Not so much for looks, but for strength.
RE: Finger pull dimensions - Brian in sunny FL - 05-22-2025
Whether or not you decide to buy this bit is up to you but the dimensions may give you some guidance.
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/6026?_pos=5&_sid=898286cec&_ss=r
RE: Finger pull dimensions - blackhat - 05-22-2025
I would take a piece of scrap and run my largest cove bit about 1/16 deep down the top and bottom faces. Put the scrap in the vise and try pulling on it. If it seems inadequate, route one face to 1/8 deep and try again. Won’t cost much and you’ll have some real feedback.
RE: Finger pull dimensions - MstrCarpenter - 05-22-2025
(05-22-2025, 02:48 PM)Brian in sunny FL Wrote: Whether or not you decide to buy this bit is up to you but the dimensions may give you some guidance.
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/6026?_pos=5&_sid=898286cec&_ss=r
I have one of those! haven't used it since the 80's. That was on oak too.
I like Blackhat's idea of top and bottom best. I just grabbed the edge of my desk as a test. If I had a slight indent for my thumb and fingers, I think I could drag the desk with full drawers.