https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/d/s...09360.html


I’m giving away a Powermatic 66 table saw that needs repairs. It’s a 5hp 3ph machine. No fence, but it does come with a fused disconnect.

In addition to the rusty table, the worm gear that controls blade height is completely worn out. The segment gear it meshes with has some wear too. This could be fixed for $100-$200, or the motor could be pulled and used on another project. I was going to fix it, but ended up buying a running unit instead. I just don’t have the time or space to mess with this one anymore.

I’m located in Santa Rosa near Montgomery Village. Include a phone number and preferred time for pickup in your email if you want a response. Come prepared to move a 500lb machine.

I am refurbishing an old Sears-Roebuck/Belsaw planer. I checked the flatness of the flatbed/table and it's not perfectly flat.
I used a steel ruler as a straight edge (azzuming that it's straight enough for the task), resting it on the table in various directions, and I can see daylight under the edge.
Using feeler gauges it seems to be out of perfect flat between .0004 and .0006 across the width of 12.3” and up to .011 across the length of 18”.
Would you consider that flat enough for a planer, or should I seriously consider having this surface ground to get it flat or flatter?

    The books that I am selling are a fantastic resource for both hand and machine wood working.  They are also very collectable. Only 2 are reprint.
 
1.  Elementry Turning by Frank Seldon  1907. 197 pgs.    $10.00
2.  Short Cuts in Carpentry by. Albert Fair. 1908. 91 pls.  $15.00
3.  Wood Working Machinery. Reprint of the 1880 Edition Soft cover  361 pls. $10.00
4.  Exercises in Wood-Working. by Ivin Sickels. 1889  158 pls.  $15.00
5.  Principles of Wood Working. by. Herman Hjorth. 1948. 445 pls. $15.00
6.  Pattern Making. by James Ritchey  1940  233 pls.  $15.00
7.  Pattern Making. by  James Ritchey  1911  141 pls.  $15.00
8.  The Star Toy Maker. by  Jack Read. 1907  Reprint Soft cover. 64 pls.  $5.00

Priced as is or if you buy the lot $80.00.  Individual books price + shipping (book rate)
PM with questions.
These books were great bedside readers also.

Now that the Project for June has been completed....
   
And serving a purpose...the towel is to protect the finish from the hard plastic wheels that the A/C Unit rolls around on...
   
Also hides the fact there IS a drawer there...

Anyway...I still have about 10' of 1 x 6 Soft Maple leftover...and..these 3 planks of Ash..
   
Yes, there are 3 planks/slabs sitting there...
   
Appears to be Bandsaw Milled from the same section of a log...one right after another...
   
Even the knot lines up...Slab #3 is a wee bit better...
   
However, I do NOT do Live Edge work...so, I might be removing the bark parts...maybe trim the ends a bit..
   
And see about working with Flat Sawn Lumber...
   
Cathedrals?   

Stay tuned...

I was answering a reply from Dereck about no one mentioning owning a slider. And I got to thinking about peoples work shops. 

How many of you have a decided space for a shop? And if so how big is it. 

Right now I am sharing a space with my wife's car in a one stall garage. And to be truthful it is more trouble than it is worth and it certainly limits what I can have to work with. How do you cope? Until recently My shop was in the back of my building and it was 45ft by 45 ft. Before that I always had a shop in the basement and never had to move machinery. Now I am learning how the other half lives.

I am sure a lot of people would like to hear about your shops and how you deal with all the obstacles. I would imagine that space is why so many router tables are incorporated with the table saw. They show up quite often in my post about what kind do table saw do you own.

Tom

The last years I've branched out into making other tools. Chisel of several different types, awls, dovetail makers, but most recently I've introduced cabinet makers turn screws. Parrallel tips made to fit mil spec slotted screws quite well. Largest fits #10, medium size fits #8, smallestl fits #4 and #6 screws.

Ron

I was tempted to title this episode, "Another Brick in the Wall", but someone else has already used it 

Firstly, I removed the wooden hinges at the rear of the Pine and Makore tool box. My fear was that they would be bumped and broken. They looked good, but that is not enough.



In their place went brass box hinges. A goodly number of years ago - I cannot be certain, possibly 15 - I attended a weekend box making course with Andrew Crawford. Andrew is one of the top box makers in the world, and based in the UK. He had just started producing his SmartHinge and gave me a prototype. I never did use it, until now. It is great to have a memory to add here.

The main work was installing the three saws I shall use. In keeping with my intent to make all the tools in this box, there is a crosscut saw (on the left), a dovetail saw (on the right), and a Knew Concepts fret saw in the centre. Okay, I did not make the KC saw, but I helped design it, and made the handle, so it qualifies!



The challenge in fitting the saws is that there is not much space to spare. The saws have 250mm (10") blades and are about 280mm (15") long, and there is just 45mm height under the lid to utilise. It is a tight fit.



The Knew Concepts is a 5" depth in titanium. This was an early model, which I preferred to the "birdcage" model, which replaced it as a cost saving but is heavier.



The dovetail saw (which is also good for sawing tenons in the smaller stretchers in medium-sized furniture) is a thin plate (0.015") filed 17 tpi with 7 degrees of rake. The handle is fiddleback Jarrah.



The crosscut joinery saw is another thin plate, this time 0.018", with 14 tpi.



The blocks have been epoxied onto the underside of the lid. They are a close fit for the saw handles and there is no movement. I will screw them through the lid if necessary, but prefer to wait-and-see if the join is strong. So far so good.



I have made a few of the tools for the box already, and will show them as they are fitted. One completed today is this router plane. The plane, itself, was built in 2013, but today I made a fence for it, which I have been wanting for some time. This was brought home to me when I built the two smaller boxes above. These did not have mitred dovetails, as i the bigger chisel box, and required stopped grooves for the bottom panel. A router plane with a fence would have made this so much easier.

Plans for the router plan here:  https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo...Plane.html







Good, clean (3mm) groove ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

The Fantasy Tool Box is a project to house tools for a hopefully - that's the fantasy part - furniture making program, hopefully in a city over the sea, after I retire (in about 12 months!). It is a small chest, just 540 x 280mm x 220mm high, in Pine and Makore.



Wooden hinges ...



The trays are Kauri Pine, which is as light as it gets. I shall not bore you with sawing dovetails, just the shop made chisels in use removing waste. More on the chisels in a while. In this instance I decided to forgo a fretsaw (as I am not sure if there will be space for one) ,and just chop out the waste.



Then split out a level ...



Chop down again. The fence at the baseline prevents the chisel moving back and over the baseline ..

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Get down half way and start on the other side ...



Once you have just a thin section remaining at the centre, this will break away, and the leave the socket clear.

The only downside of this method (compared with fretsawing and paring) is that the centre of the socket is rough ...



So far, all the dovetails aim to fit off the saw. Will they?



These soft woods are great to dovetail and they squish together without any gaps ...





It's going to fit nicely ...



A preview of the lid for the tray ... Makore to match the chest lid ...



Stanley Bedrock #604 used here as the planes have not yet been made.

Don't you love the straight shavings from a closed chipbreaker 



Raking light across the surface ... no tracks and a gleam to beat any sander!



There are 9 chisels, including a fishtail for clearing the waste of pins. The blades are M2 (HSS), 80mm long (a little longer than a butt chisel), 3mm thick and hollow ground at 30 degrees. The handles are West Australian Sheoak.



The brass ferrules are semi-fake, on purpose. The blades are attached with tangs, epoxied into the handle, and the ferrule is filled with epoxy, gripping the steel shaft and acting as a bolster. The shoulder shape is influenced by Japanese chisels.

While the shoulders appear square, as with firmer chisels, these are all have minimal lands, and the taper will fit inside the shoulder of a socket angled at a 1:5 ratio (11 degrees).



The sizes are geared towards detail work, especially dovetailing. All metric. So ... 3/4/6/8/10/12/18/25mm. It is likely that I will replace the 10mm with a 6mm mortice chisel (already made) ...



M2 is hard steel. It takes and holds a good edge. Overall, they are light, pare well and handle chopping.

Update ....

What may be of interest to those reading are the tools chosen to be included. The intention is that these are all that is needed to do fine work when building furniture - to cover joinery, such as rebates, mortise-and-tenons, dovetailing for cases and drawers, jointing and smoothing. The box is small, and the challenge is to fit everything inside, as well as keeping the weight down. So far the total is 7 kg.

The plan is to make all the tools in the tool box. The only exception here are marking tools, but I may change my mind later.

The top layer, comprising three boxes, is done ...



There is enough space to slide a box along and get a finger under the side latch to open it ...



From the right, the chisels have been narrowed to these, with bevel edge from 3mm through 25mm, a fishtail for clearing pin sockets, and a 6mm mortice chisel. The handles are West Australian Sheoak, and all the steel is M2, as mentioned earlier ...



]The middle box has the marking tools needed: Starrett 12"/300mm combination square (the blade is housed separately), a 4" Starrett double square, 4" iGaging sliding bevel (excellent copy of the Starrett at a fraction of the price), and a combination compass/divider ....



All tools are French fitted inside thick felt to prevent movement and provide cushioning during travel.

The third box contains several recently-made tools: marking knife (with interchangeable blades. Here sporting a double bevel), screwdriver (with several bits), kerfing chisel (for extending kerfs in half-blind dovetails), scratch awl (for positioning dimensions and starting screw holes), and a carbide rod burnisher for card scrapers ...



The marking knife (Mk 2) has replaceable blades, using a brass blade carrier. Details of the build here:  https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo...lades.html

The Mk 2 design was intended to match the original dovetail marking knife I designed, and later was made by Chris Vesper. Some of you have this one.



The scratch awl also uses a brass blade carrier, allowing the removal of the shaft for easier sharpening (in a drill).

I am particularly happy with the new kerfing chisel, made using the same blade carrier as the knife. I will post detailed photos if there is interest.



Regards from Perth

SOLD_________Great catalogs! They were mainly used for researching antique tools.  $40.00 + shipping for the lot. Money order or check.  Pick up in Brighton, MI or mailed out  book rate.

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Up for sale is a Performax/Jet 22-44 Plus drum sander.  Complete with open stand, infeed-outfeed tables, casters and some sandpaper rolls.  
Please note that it does need a new conveyor belt.  
I'm asking $1,200.00  For obvious reasons it would be tough to ship but I would entertain meeting a buyer half way up to say 125 miles from the Spokane area.  This offer is meant to help out a buyer from say Seattle, or eastern Montana, it is not intended as an offer to deliver

By the way my PM notifications do not work so be patient for a response.  Once I get going during the day I do not focus on the computer, email, or other electronic distractions.

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