Looking for a replacement filler lid gasket for a Honeywell HUL545W cold air humidifier.

We called Honeywell Customer Support (an oxymoron) and was told that the part is currently out of stock. When we asked for the P.N. we were told they can't provide that information as the part is currently out of stock.

Hmmmm ?

Anyone have this information or a source ?

Thanks

That was long ago made from Pallet Wood.....was stuck into a corner....and the cats used the legs for scratching posts..
   
Table top was too small...let a lot of stuff drop down to the floor...and..I NEED to clean up the area on top of the table..as it has become a "Catch-all"....The DVD Cabinet sitting on it, won't close properly..so it will also get worked on....

Lumber run..
   
$30  spent....four  1 x 6 x 6' Maple planks, and nine 1 x 6 x 5' Ash planks...some of the Maple looked good..
   
And one out of the 4 did not....had a couple issues..
   
Decided to use the Maple  1 x 6s to build a slightly taller, and slightly wider Table....as the old table was also too short...

Sent the best of the 1 x 6 Maple to the shop...
   
2 out of 3...the 3rd one?
   
 
These are a bit too long for me to cut on the tablesaw....safely.....need 1 x 6 x 26" blanks...so, mark a cut line..
   
Grab a saw down off the overhead hook...
   
Add, make a few cuts..
   
Until I wind up with 4 blanks to make a top top out of...
   
And that will do it for a days work...

Stay tuned..

You might remember in a post a few weeks ago I mentioned that I was going to rebuild the lattice above our fence?  (Original Lattice picture for reference).

Well it has begun.  I'm making it with dadoes vs just stapling 2 piece over each other.  Here are my steps:

1) In the 2nd picture (1st pass with router), you can see the jig I made.  It took a while to visualize it and build it but once I understood how it is to function, everything fell into place.  The 1st pass plows out one edge of my dado.  

2) I then remove "template" (not sure why I called that piece "template") and plow out the opposite grove (2nd pass with the router picture).  You might notice that my jig is angled down slightly but when I rest it up against the fence, it brings it to parallel with my 5x5 post.

3) I then just clean out the waste between my 2 grooves.

4) I then move the jig down to engage the groove I just made and continue the process.  You can see the key on the bottom of my jig in "2nd pass with the router" picture.

5)  In "Entire post..." you can see the (aptly name) entire post with all the grooves cut.  I then cut the 5x5x 8ft post down to more manageable piece (approx 30" each) and run them through the Unisaw to slice off the completed sections.  Since my blade can't reach to 5", I need to flip the pieces end for end to free them.

6) I then bring the "slab" to my older TS and cut the widths of each piece,  In fact, in the "Entire post..." picture you can see the fence setup for that piece.

7) "Rough Assembly" shows how the pieces are going together.

(sometimes I cheat.  In "Entire post" you'll see a 2 pieces of playing cards that I use along the way to make sure the key stays 90 degrees to the edge of the posts.  It hasn't been an issue so far in that my grooves are fitting as you can see in "Rough assembly"


Oh, BTW, remember the board I made "Assembly jig" that I spent the better part of a weekend making to help with the alignment of my slats?  Well, I won't be using it as the pieces automatically fit together @ 90 degrees without the need for a jig.  Oh well, there's 2 days in the shop I'll never get back....)

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I purchased some Jessem stuff a while ago. I bought both the Imperial and Metric versions. I find I do not use the Metric set up tools. 
I have never used any of them. So, for sale is:
 
Stainless Steel Precision Square
300 MM Metric $110  --  Jessem Part Number 07401
 
Stainless Steel Tool Setting Gauge -
Metric Combo Package 1 Large Metric and 1 small Metric $130 -- Jessem Part Number 07310


The prices above are Jessem's current pricing, not my asking price.

Buy one, buy them all at 65% of Jessem's pricing. That makes the square $71 and the 
Metric Combo Pack $84. Shipping is on me.

The asking prices are, of course, OR BEST OFFER. Questions or comments, please let me know.

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Looking for a Mini Max G260 or LAB 300

I am very restricted for shop space and would really be interested if anyone is thinking of selling one. Can drive a distance if anyone has one.

Located in Alabama

a while back I asked about filters as the sediment filter on my well seemed to need changing with increasing frequency.  When we moved in, it was 10-12 weeks depending on how much we used.  Now it's down to 3-4 weeks.  After some research I had a company come in to scope the well.  It's expensive but I wanted to see what I was dealing with just in case it was a split casing.  The process is they pull my well pump, put their own larger one in and draw the water down, then run the camera down it.  The good news is they didn't find any problems with the casing.I have 3 hours of riveting video.   Relining it would be expensive.  They did find that a well that is/was rated at 7 GPM when it was drilled is now about 18 GPM.  This is based on their pump taking so long to draw the water down.  Their pump is rated 20-22.  We are thinking the increasing silt is related to whatever opened up in the ground.    After all of the pumping yesterday and me flushing the chlorine out today the water is running clear at the well.  It hasn't done that in a very long time.  I don't know if that will change.    

Their suggestion was an aerator type treatment for the iron in the water.  I don't have the height in my crawlspace for one.  I am limited to about 40" below the joists and maybe 48 to the subfloor.  I am wondering about a water softener, or just get a flushable pre-filter.  or both.  the water softener would be tied in after both of the filters.

I took this cutterhead off my 8" Jet Jointer. The cutterhead is in good shape and the blades are fairly new. I am also including the bearings which work well. Be sure to check shipping as this is heavy. I am also including the tool that comes with the jointer that allows you to install new knives.

This is very heavy so shipping could be pricey. I have not weighed the item but I would guess its 20 to 25 pounds. Shipping from 33487

Asking $75 plus shipping.

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I am just curious how others handle finishing raised panels. I have heard that you want to prefinish them to avoid revealing unfinished wood when the panel shrinks in dry weather. That seems to make sense. But do you just stain them?  Or do you stain and then put one coat of finish on them?  Or multiple coats and them mask them off when finishing the final assembly?

If you eventually put finish on the entire assembly is there a chance that the finish might “crack” at the intersection of the panel and stile during expansion and contraction?

I am sure that I am overthinking this like I do most things, but what is the “best” practice?

In the past I have stained and put on one coat of finish. Then assembled and applied finish to the entire assembly.  The panel just ends up with an extra coat.

Can someone give me an idea of what the consistency of Famowood should be? I have some that has dried out and is quite stiff. I have to fill some deep holes (3/8 to 1/2 inch). I have added acetone to it to make it easier to spread, but think it should probably be a lot thinner than I have it now. Any idea what the fresh, new consistency is? Like glazing compound/putty? like peanut butter? even thinner and sort of "sloppy"?

The project is utilitarian with cobbled together parts, so I would like to use the old Famowood (and use it as a learning experience).

Besides filling most of the holes with the regular consistency Famo, does it make sense to use a thin slurry to smooth out the final surface?

I'm relatively new to using fillers, so I would appreciate any suggestions from your experiences.

-W2W

You may remember my slice of humble pie posting a few weeks ago, where, because of an error I made creating the drawing, and not making a story stick, I built some doors that were too narrow for the opening.  Well, after digesting that for a few days I proposed a "fix", or to build new doors.  The fix was to add a piece of stock between the doors, attached to one door.  The drawing looked like this, except the new piece would have grooves in it just like the door panels. 




I didn't hear anything from the customer for over a week, so I contacted her to get her reaction.  She said she might be OK with it, but said she wanted to use a piece of rosewood for contrast.  OK, if you can find a piece of rosewood veneer, I'll use that.  Another week passed so I contacted her again.  This time she said she just didn't like the whole idea and would like to have new doors.  OK, I'll do that.  

But I'm pig headed at times, so I decided to build the center pieces and take the reworked doors to her and tell her to live with them for a couple of weeks.  If she still hated them, I'd make new ones.  Today was the day, and here's what they look like. 



The center panels are attached to the right doors.  There is a 3/8" groove on both edges of the panel to match the 3/8" horizontal gap between the two sets of doors.  



There is an astragal let into a rabbett on the back of the left door that fits into a rabbett in the right door to cover the gap between the doors.  






She didn't say much when I was there, but later I got a text apologizing for not paying me (I didn't expect her to today.) and that the doors were growing on her.  I take that as a good sign.  

As a side note, I used:  [font="Open Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Blum Compact Clip Soft-Close 5/8" Overlay, 2-Piece Screw-On [/font]hinges from WoodWorker's Hardware.  They are the only compact faceframe soft close hinges I've found with the clip-on feature and 3-way adjustability.  The clip-on feature made installation so much easier, especially when I had to take them down and then reinstall them.  Very nice hinges and features.  

John