Anybody interested in a wonderful, new condition book: "Duncan Phyfe: Master Cabinetmaker in New York"?

New condition. I received this as a gift but it's duplicate in my furniture book library. Published by the METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART in 2011. 302 pages. Hardcover.

This catalogue is published in conjunction with the exhibition "Duncan Phyfe:

I went down to the basement last evening and found water on the floor.  Fortunately, it was not near my shop, rather, the other end in the laundry area where the sump pump is so the water was draining into it.  I found the leak in a drain line that dumps into the main stack at that end of the house.  It takes water from the kitchen and half bath, and also the sump.  As I looked at the pipe, I could see it was corroded through in two places, on the short vertical piece and on the underside of the diagonal piece.  Well, OK, I'm not doing anything with it tonight.  



Hoping there was still some solid pipe before the 3" T, I went off to the plumbing store and came how with some PVC parts and rubber transitions.  The plumbing is above my drier, which would be a real pain to remove, so it was a very inconvenient place to work, of course.  I got the pipes cut with a Sawzall and found that the last inch or so of the diagonal piece was still good.  Whew.  Some measuring and test fitting of parts, and I the repair was done.  



I am so happy this worked.  The work involved had that piece of the diagonal been no good would have been a real bear.  Getting enough heat on that big 3" fitting, right next to the wall, would have been a real challenge, one I'd rather not have to attempt.  I'm not sure what other alternative I had, though.  I don't think there's enough room above the T for a Furnco fitting if I wanted to install a plastic T.  I guess maybe I could have put a plug in the stub of the 1-1/2" pipe and installed a new plastic T down below in the straight section of 3" copper.  How would you go about it?  Just in case.  

John

I wanted this to be a different thread discussion.   Probably not a project I will get to for at least the next 2 months, but I am thinking about it now. I can always come back and find this thread later.  My house is a modular, 2 15 x 70 foot boxes.  It has a finished upstairs, the upstairs bath is right about the middle of that 70'.  The factory was supposed to run a chase and the 3" drain stack up the wall by the stairs to that bathroom.  They didn't. They ran it up the wall of the downstairs bathrooms at one end of the house.  The problem is the water heater is at the other end of the house.  The builder instead of figuring out a way to route the water pipes up the middle of the house took them all the way down to the chase, up and then back through the attic.  I'm guessing 80' or so of pipe by the time it's all said and done.  They had to open one of the walls in the middle of the house to get the drain down to the septic anyway so I have no idea why they didn't just pull the water lines.    I'd like to have hotter water upstairs and I'd like it to get there quicker.     I am thinking of a second water heater, 30 or 40 gallon in the crawl space at that end of the house.  It would be electric.  I have space in the panel to feed it.  The question is whether to tie that heater into the entire house so that both water heaters are feeding everything, or isolate the upstairs bath and maybe the downstairs bath on that second heater.    That would then put the master bath, kitchen, washer and dishwasher on the main one.  

I haven't been under the house to see how things are plumbed.  A while ago I looked into a recirculating pump but that only solves one problem.  The water is still losing heat.  A second water heater would help solve both problems and give me additional capacity, especially if it was just tied into the entire house.  Is there a problem with doing that if the water isn't being drawn from them equally?  Like the kitchen would mostly be pulling off the main water heater. 

First up is an 18" x 0.032" half back in Spalted Maple burl that was resin infused. Size large ( 4" wide hand )
I originally broke the lower horn but rather than gluing it back together I decided to just shorten both horns. Hence the reduction in price as I now consider it a "2nd"
Filed 11 ppi x 15* rake x 25* Fleam. $250.00 Plus Shipping
Resin Infused Spalted Maple Burl 18" x 0.032" Half Back by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Resin Infused Spalted Maple Burl Half Back2 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Resin infused spalted Maple Burl Half back by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Next is a 12" Sash/ Carcass saw I have had hiding way down in the bottom of a drawer. The date on the spine is 2015.
It is a Bastogn Walnut ( if memory serves me correctly ) It is a size Reg/ Lg. with a 12" x 3" x 0.020" plate that was filed 14ppi x 8* rake x 0* fleam. A thin plate sash saw, basically. My hand is 3.75" wide and it is a little roomy but works. A 4" hand should fit nicely. IF someone wants it for a cross cut carcass saw I will file it cross cut 14PPI x ? rake  x ? . Your choice. I will also clean it up a bit for you. $225.00 plus shipping.
12" x 3 " x 0.020" Bastogn Walnut Carcass/ Sash saw by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Walnut Sash/ Carcass saw by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
That's it for the carcass/ tenon saw drawer ( Almost )

I'd appreciate feedback from owners of the Pantarouter unit. Are they really as good as the videos on the Pantarouter make them appear to be? My usage would primarily be for dovetails.

Making a 13in wall hanging featuring Lake St. Helen from Honey Locust and Alumilite resin.

isn't.  at least not well it seems.  measured at several faucets with a people thermometer the water temp measured 98.2   The water heater is 10 years old.   It is kind of a pain to get at. You have to partially empty a closet and pull a cover off the wall.  I was in there 3 years ago at least then it looked ok no signs of rusting.  At this point my assumption is bad lower element but I haven't tested it yet.  Should I try to repair or just replace it?  It is electric so replacement would be mostly straightforward.   It is a builder-grade, meaning the brand is not sold in retail outlets.  It has a 6 year tank warranty according to the company.   I'll concede that replacing it means I don't have to deal with testing, trying to locate parts, etc.   If I replaced the element, it wouldn't make sense to not replace the anode, and I don't think I have ever successfully removed one of those from a water heater.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/zip/d/s...80471.html

"[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]Ok, it's old and probably needs a little TLC but I have no use for it anymore. Come and pick this up. Yes, you will need a truck and someone to help you load it.[/font]

[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]864 Hampshire St SF, 94110"[/font]

I’m building an 8-foot dining table with pedestals, not four legs.  The top will attach to the aprons conventionally with tabletop clips. The apron ends will be mitered at 45 degrees. Because this table won’t have legs to attach the aprons to, how do I glue the mitered ends tightly together? I could add an angled brace across the aprons and attach with pocket screws. That would tie the aprons together, but that wouldn’t clamp the ends tightly for glue. 
Your replys appreciated. —Peter

Looking for a replacement filler lid gasket for a Honeywell HUL545W cold air humidifier.

We called Honeywell Customer Support (an oxymoron) and was told that the part is currently out of stock. When we asked for the P.N. we were told they can't provide that information as the part is currently out of stock.

Hmmmm ?

Anyone have this information or a source ?

Thanks