A rainy Saturday,

Catching up on some watch-strap leather work and shoe-heel rubber work.
A nice cutting edge gets 90% of the trimming done,  then I'll move to power sanding equipment.

   

DELETE............

I posted about a new RAS Miter Table up in the Woodworking section.  Link  



It's 32 x 17" and fits most any RAS.  The unit is made from 3/4" plywood and comes with the hardware needed to install it on your RAS.  I make it on my CNC, so tolerances are very tight.  You will need to drill 4 holes in your table, one for the 1/4" pivot, one for the table lock, and two for the fine adjustment bracket. Installation takes less than 30 minutes.  Removing and reinstalling the miter table is done in less than 1 minute.  

The unit costs $95 (PayPal or check) and includes shipping within the CONUS.  Shipment is about 1 week.  

John

I developed a pretty sophisticated miter table for my RAS a year or so ago, so you can cut miters at any angle w/o having to pivot the saw arm.  When the arm stays locked at 90 degrees it never loses accuracy.  Several folks here expressed an interest in buying one.  Turns out, that unit is very time consuming and expensive to produce, so I haven't gone forward with it.  After I got my new Dewalt GA, I thought about developing a miter table that was simpler and easier and less costly to produce.  After some design work and testing, I have a unit that I think folks with a RAS might find useful.  



I call it a rotary miter table.  The unit is installed onto your RAS table with a dowel pin for the pivot.  It's held in place with the lock knob you see at the front of the table.  It rotates right and left beyond 40 degrees.  





There is a fine adjust bracket at the front so that you can adjust the angle to well less than 1/4 degree.  



The table gives a cut capacity of over 12" at any angle.



The table is about 32 x 17" and will fit on most any RAS.  Here it is on my 925. 



And on my GWI.



To install it, you remove the stock fence; the miter table has its own fence.  You drill a 1/4" hole in the main table for the dowel pin that the miter table rotates on.  



The miter table indexes onto the dowel pin.  The fine adjust bracket is installed at the front of the main table.  I used two screws, but threaded inserts also could be used, which is what I used for the lock knob.  It's set off the C/L so there's no danger of running the blade into it.  



Alignment is very simple.  Just align the mark at 90 degrees with the kerf.  Do a test cut.  If the angle is off, move the fine adjust bracket left or right.  Make a new test cut.  When the cut is a perfect 90 degrees, it's all set.  All other angles should be perfect.  I checked the cuts at 45 degrees left and right and they were spot on without fine tuning. 





A benefit of this miter table is that it provides support to the cutoff piece, both the fence and table.  It's simple to install and simple to use, probably easier to use than a miter saw.  Additionally, it's relatively small, so it's easily stored when not needed.  The fence is screwed on from the bottom, so it's easy to replace it as needed.  

I'll put an ad down in the Swap and Sell section for anyone who might want to buy one.  

John

Think ladderback chair with curved uprights, three curved back pieces, a 1X2 seat support, and a bottom rung.  That's 10 M&T joints (20 glue applications) that need to be glued up at the same time.  The dry fit went together (finally) but it took these old hands quite a while, and I'm concerned about getting it all together without glue drying up or getting it all over me and everything else - despite using Titebond III with a decent set time.  Given the configuration, I do not think just doing one side at a time is feasible unless the second side follows immediately.

I'm thinking about applying glue to the tenons first, especially the end grain that normally needs two coats anyway, then the mortices.  This might mean that some of the tenons could be partially dry before completing all the joints.  Do you think this is will not compromise the strength of the joints?  Any other ideas?

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/o...40296.html

Vintage Radial Arm Saw Delta 33-990 with stand.
Still works, but needs a new wood surface for table, and the guard pieces are removed and in a box.
Free, bring a truck and some friends.
You lift and haul

I need to cut narrow through mitters into hardwood. The mitter width should be 2mm (about 1/12"), and the thickness of the wood is 4/5". I found this router bit, but I am not sure if this is suitable indeed for the purpose?:

   

I have seen people cutting wood with those kind of router bits that look similar to a normal drill bit. But I found the side of the cuts were quite rough. That's why I tried to find a normal, straight type of bit.

Disston Panel saw
$ 10 plus shipping

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This compass repeatedly was pointed at the burn pile. With cracked wood, broken cnc bits & fitting issues, I didnt think I was going to finish this one.
The 11x2in bowl is made up of white oak with black walnut and purple heart compass rose & letters. Two 15 segment rings sit onto of the inlayed base. The bowl was finished with Myland's sanding sealer and Myland's friction polish.

Also during the enforced week of no computer...had a wee bit more of that KIWI Pine   1/2"x 6" x 24"....so...

A drawing of a few curvy lines...and bit of Bandsaw work..then a bit of glue, and and forest of clamps...
   
No metal fasteners were used...simply glued this up....
   
Let this sit a day, while I worked on some dovetails for a box....then..
   
Clean up all the rough spots, and glue joints...and try to level the 4 feet...
   
So that it did not rock  too badly...
Then a bit of Witch's Brew...to add a bit of colour?
   
Then a coat of Warm Gloss Poly...allow that to dry, then rub down with some 0000 steel wool..

Will let the Boss decide what she wants to sit in that chair...

Still learning HOW to edit photos in Windows 11....after all those years in Windows 10....Hint..they did NOT make it easier...

Thanks for looking in!