Post deleted momentarily

Not much enthusiasm here for CNC stuff, but I'll kill a few electrons anyway to show the few who do have an interest with the vacuum table prototype I made.  



It's 20 x 30 inches, and made for cheap plywood.  The grid pattern is 1 x 1", 3/16" deep.  The foam tape is just 1/4 x 1/4" weather stripping.  The hole is the port for my Fein shopvac.  It's amazing how much holding force this thing generates.  I absolutely cannot move a piece of stock that covers the top.   That might give those doing router, carving, etc work an idea on how they might hold their projects for unfettered access.  

The gasket is what seals the workpiece to the table.  For smaller work pieces, you install a gasket such that the workpiece covers the gasketed area.  



This 10 x 10" piece also is held so tightly that I can't move it.  My Fein vacuum generates about 3 psi of pressure, which means 300 lbs of force on that 10 x 10" area.  No wonder I can't move it.  



There is a size, however, where the surface area is so small that the holding force won't be enough to resist the cutting forces of the CNC bit.  For those parts, I'll have to use my prior methods of clamps or tape and CA glue.  I'm going to use this for awhile to see how well it fits my needs.  If it works as well as I hope, I'll make one, or two or three that sit side by side, to cover the entire top of my CNC.  

John

I was trying to adjust the table saw fence to get exactly the width of material to match the Leigh dovetail jig settings, getting close but not exactly what I needed. I searched for something that would help, but nothing I found was what I needed. I sent an email to SawStop, describing what I was afer. They don't offer a micro adjuster for their saw, but suggested a product made by Canyon Fire Tools 

https://canyonfiretools.com/shop/ols/pro...ter-3fadef and that looked like what I was after, so I ordered one (and discovered that I also needed to order a Mag Switch for it). Parts arrived today, installation was super simple. Mounted a dial indicator to my saw table top next to the fence and played with the adjuster's knurled knob. It does precisely what I was after, allowing an adjustment as little as 0.001 inch. 

sorry 'bout the duplicate posting, I've tried to delete the "extra" one, with no luck

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I was trying to adjust the table saw fence to get exactly the width of material to match the Leigh dovetail jig settings, getting close but not exactly what I needed. I searched for something that would help, but nothing I found was what I needed. I sent an email to SawStop, describing what I was afer. They don't offer a micro adjuster for their saw, but suggested a product made by Canyon Fire Tools 

https://canyonfiretools.com/shop/ols/pro...ter-3fadef 
and that looked like what I was after, so I ordered one (and discovered that I also needed to order a Mag Switch for it). Parts arrived today, installation was super simple. Mounted a dial indicator to my saw table top next to the fence and played with the adjuster's knurled knob. It does precisely what I was after, allowing an adjustment as little as 0.001 inch. 

Making a Dragon egg from some spalted swamp wood and Alumilite Deep Pour. The egg is finished with Waterlox Gloss.

Hey everyone. I'm liquidating most of my extra woodworking and machinist tools since I haven't done machining for my job in about 12 years. Some of these may be cross posted on other sites like Marketplace but they have occasionally been useful in my wood shop, so I'm posting here also. Prices include shipping in continental US. I'll add more items as I have time to take pictures. Thanks!
I take PayPal, check, (or cash if it's a local pickup). Located in Albion, MI.

SOLD: $30 Jacobs Keyless Chuck 3/8" Portomatic 375 with #2 Morse Taper Shank PICTURES

SOLD: $40 Jacobs 14N Ball Bearing Super Chuck with MT2 arbor and K3 Key PICTURES

Other stuff:
6x2 DMT DIA-SHARP coarse 325 mesh diamond stone. Pretty new...maybe lightly used once. $35 $25 Pictures

SOLD: Hanson 1/8" and 1/4" stamp sets. Letter and number sets new and complete. Also Young Bros 1/16" full letter/number stamp set brand new.
All together $50 Pictures

SOLD: USA made 24" combination square ruler without square head... Fits starrett or mitutoyo. I don't see brand mark but it's probably PEC. 
$50 Pictures

SOLD: Stanley Bailey 5 piece Sheffield England chisel set. Brand new with minor blemishes. The big chisel will need some grinding to remove a chip. 
$50 $40 Pictures

I previously posted about a product called Duxxbak which is a waterproof composite decking product and I have concerns about how it would hold up. Now I am noticing there are aluminum decking providers so I got a quote from one of them and amazingly, the price is about the same. 

https://www.nexaninc.com

The product is called lockdry waterproof decking

they make a plain aluminum or powder coated product that is either a solid color or a wood grain. 


I would have guessed the aluminum solution would have been considerably more expensive. In the end, the composite deck companies are double the cost of standard 2x4 pressure treated and this aluminum appears to be the same cost as composite. My application is for decks at a mountain/lakehouse that is in a high moisture environment.

My local Home Depot has a Bluebird 4" wood chipper to rent for $112 per day, but how fast will that work?
The branches I have to shred are up to 2-3" at some points, but mostly 2" and smaller.

I can get a 6" chipper from Arts for $240 per day, compared to HD's 6" for $299 per day.
I would expect that to perform better and probably take less of my time.

I don't have a lot to do, but at some point saving $128 isn't going to be worth the extra time I'm thinking a lessor powered chipper is going to cost me.

Have you used this 4" chipper from Home Depot before? Is it significantly slower than using a 6" chipper?

thanks

Hi woodnetter, today I finished a saw wich I started in Octobre 2024

Fine joiner Saw ultimate edition in nickel silver.







Take Care
Pedder

I am building a bed out of cherry that I have asked a few questions about in this forum. I made a mistake in that I asked what kind of wood she wanted it built from before discussing the final color. Now that most of the pieces were cut out she chose a rather dark stain called American walnut.  Lesson learned - final color determined before cutting any wood. I am using a quality brand and type of stain that I have had good results with in the past. It is not big box store stuff. 

I am having a lot of blotchiness. I read a few things and one suggestion was to sand to a finer grit. I sanded to 400 and I will admit it is significantly better, but still not something I can be proud of. Another thing I read suggested a preconditioner. I am willing to give that a try. I see there is something called a preconditioner at my local Menards. I do not know what it is even made from. I also thought I read about using extremely diluted shellac?  

Have any of you used a preconditioner to minimize blotchiness in cherry?  What did you use and what was the application process. 

Thanks from an extremely discourage woodworker.