I have a Lufkin one inch mike. It is a ratchet fit or size. It has a veneer scale for reading in tenths of one thousands. Has all the fractional, decimal, conversions on the frame. It does not have carbide faces. I also have a Brown and Sharp, zero to 5inches depth mike. The base is 2 1/2 wide and the wood piece is included. The adjusting wrenches are under the depth mike in the wood flat. Asking $100 plus shipping.

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/p...d/78407852

there's more than the 2 below

After sitting on the "One day" shelf, the parts and pieces of this project I attempted 7 years ago finally came together. This 8in tall by 9in wide Black Walnut and Curly Maple vase features solid pieces as well as segmented rings. The slots were cut on the FoxAlien 4040 xe-pro. The vase was finished with Zinsser Bulls Eye sanding sealer before the final spray lacquer finish.
Stay tuned to the end of the video where I talk about some of the issues I had throughout the project.

Ref an older 12.5" Sears and Roebuck planer -  may actually be a Belsaw model

I'm looking for references to parts supply for this thing. 

The fist thing is new rubber for the driving wheels. 

So far I think that's about it unless something like the bearings prove to be shot.

thanks!

Ok, stupid idea here maybe, but has anyone ever tried cutting notches in the planer blades to improve dust collection?
The old planer I’m refinishing is a Sears and Roebuck, which I read somewhere may actually be a Belsaw model.
At any rate, while removing the old blades I had a hair brain idea.
My thought is that if the three blades each have a few notches that do not line up with the notches on the other two blades that I could get smaller chips and no raised profile (whatever would be the opposite of a groove ?).
At first thought it seems like it would work similarly to a helical blade system, but I’m pretty sure I’d probably end up with a bunch of raised profile grooves anyway.
Has this been tried before?

One could buy one of these tool boxes, today...
   
Would it be one of these?
Or..step up a wee bit and buy Chest #B?
   

Or, IF you had the $60?
   
Maybe Tool Chest #C?

Too many to keep track of..and maybe a fancier chest?
   
But fewer tools, more for doing wood work? You could set this up at the back of a bench, and get to work?

However....the way my tool budget is...maybe just a "starter set"?
   
just enough to start?   Only $15.00...Catalog these came in?
   
From "The James Swan Company" back in 1911...

Last week I asked about glue on Endgrain. Following your advice, I used screws, also Liquid Nails. Here is how the project turned out.

Attached Files

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Some sad news:

https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/news/...nT4y35EYFw

I'm making some simple frame and panel shutters to replace ones that rotted in only 5 years.  Very disappointing; I'll never use white pine for something like this again.  White pine used to last for decades but apparently this ain't your grandfather's white pine anymore.  I'm using Utile/Sipo this time.  Many of its properties are on par with mahogany, and the price is right at about half the cost.  I bought three nice 5/4 boards, more than plenty for the 4 shutters I need to make.  I'm using AZEK for the panels; one sheet of 3/8" will cover those needs.  



Sipo planes easily, but can sometimes tear out the same as mahogany due to the interlocked grain. 

I got all the stock planed and cut to width, then cut common parts to length on my RAS that has a length stop system on the bench the saw is mounted to.  This was the first RAS I bought, about 40 years ago.  I wouldn't want to be without it.  



 With the length stop cutting multiple parts to the same, identical length is guaranteed.  

 
I plowed 3/8" deep dados in all the parts for the panels, and then cut stub tenons on the ends of the rails to fit into those dados, using my RAS with a dado stack and stop block. 

 




I cut mortises for the loose tenons on my horizontal router table, in both the ends of the rails and mating ones in the stiles. 

 


With the joinery complete, I test fit a frame together.  



Time to make the panels to fit.  More to follow.   

John

SOLD: Lenox Bandsaw Blade Tension Meter: appears to have seen little to no use. Box shows some wear outside. Very minor
"smudges " on tension gauge lens. $250 includes shipping. SOLD

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