This showed up about a year ago...$1 at a Antique Store.....as the Boss seemed to like it...
   
With the idea of hanging it up on a wall in the house....and just sat around until the other day..
   
When I got the idea to sneak that painted "Thing" down to the shop...and TRY to remove the paint..

Not sure WHAT they had used for paint/primer...
Saw bolts were removed....and shined back up....set the wood handle aside, for now...
80 grit in a palm sander....got things down to almost bare metal....
220 grit followed that up...rust underneath the Primer coat....Paint and primer both were a ROYAL PITA to remove...

1500 grit in the palm sander....shined the (NOW) bare metal up...
   
In the process of installing the handle and shiny bolts back onto the saw's plate...spline got pushed down too far up front...

I had done a "Test Drive" before all of this....saw had way too much set..but, was still quite sharp....will try it out on the next Project...
But, for now...
   
It can hang around with the Disstons and Jacksons....until called for...(Is there such a thing as too many backsaws?)

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/zip/d/s...34385.html

   

I'm finally finishing up my tool chest so I have a few items for sale. Most of the prices are my cost, so a little wiggle room. Shipping isn't included but I use PayPal / ShipStation / Pirate Ship so it shouldn't be too much. Any 2 items qualify for free shipping. I'm mostly listing these here in case I have something in particular you might have been looking for and want to avoid eBay mark-up because of fees/tax. More pictures if need of course. Thanks for looking.

- Gramercy Tools Carcase saw - American Black Walnut handle - 12" / 14 ppi - bought from another member and only made a few test cuts - $275
- Stanley No. 27 Transitional Jack plane - bought from another member. - $70
- 3/16” pig sticker mortise chisel. $40
- Staedtler Halfpipe compass - used but complete. $5
- Marples Adjustable Mortise gauge - brass inserts - walnut - bought new, never used but has marks from being in the shop. $45

Sold - Lie-Nielsen No. 112 Large Scraping plane. $375
Sold - Marples Marking guage - brass inserts - walnut - same as above. $20
Sold - Stanley Bailey No. 5 Type 13 Jack plane - SW iron. - $110
Sold - Veritas 1/8” / 3mm Narrow plane blade for router and hinge mortise planes - new with chipped corner. $5
Sold - Halder BASEPLEX 25 mallet Nylon/cellulose acetate with zinc die cast housing - new. $16
Sold - Halder SIMPLEX 40 mallet TPE-mid/nylon with cast iron housing - uncommon faces - new. $33
Sold - Pegas #7 Skip tooth coping saw blades 6.5" / 18 TPI – 10 count - new. $5
Sold - Pax card scraper - looks new. $5
Sold - Stanley Bailey No. 3 Type 13 Smooth plane - SW iron. $80
Sold - Lie-Nielsen 2” replacement blade and chip breaker for Stanley planes – 0.095”. $110?
Sold - Hock Tools 2” replacement blade and chip breaker – O1 / high carbon steel - France? $60
Sold - Lee Valley Shingle and riving froe - tried once. $50
Sold - Diablo D0641 6-1/2in. x 40-Tooth Finish Trim Circular Saw Blade - new. $10
Sold - Bontz Saw Works Compact Joinery Mallet - mahogany handle - new with a small mark. $50
Sold - Lie-Nielsen Leather tool roll - older, better quality version - Made in France - $100?
Sold - Richard Kell Standard brass dovetail marker - new with some marks. $30
Sold - Lie-Nielsen No. 60-1/2 Low-angle block plane - bought new, never used but has marks from being in the shop. $165
Sold - Lie-Nielsen No. 60-1/2 Low-angle block plane blade – W1 steel so you can actually have a low angle - new. $50
Sold - Lie-Nielsen No. 102 Low-angle block plane blade – W1 steel like above - new. $45
Sold - Lie-Nielsen hand scraper set 0.020 / 0.032 high carbon Swedish tool steel - they look new. $15

I have had a jigsaw for 20 years. Tried to use it once or twice, could never cut straight with it. Tired with different blades, even expensive Bosch blades, still unable to cut well with it. The problem is: even if I use a guide, the blade starts to live its on life and tends to wander, and the result is: it will start pulling the saw from the guide or towards the guide and make the saw get stuck. Even if I don't push hard.

My saw is a cheap saw, the own brand of a local department store. For a long time I thought it is the price of my saw that is the source of problems, so I planned once I have enough money I will buy a pro one to try that.

Recently it happened I needed a jigsaw for a specific task, so started experimenting with them and collecting info. In this project I need to cut curves (some are quite small) and straight lines. BY experimenting, in the end I managed to find a method that helps me to cut acceptable straight lines and larger curves. It is a bit time consuming but works: I sit in front of the saw, pulling it towards myself, and I push a little, then loosen, push and loosen. On every push I advance about 1/25". So this is very slow, but with this method I can cut along the line, and I can do so regardless of the quality or purpose of the blade. But small curves are still a problem.

So I decided to go and check the expensive jigsaws in a store. I observed them, and I found they have similar mechanism like my cheap jigsaw. Actually, apart from the higher price, some of them doesn't really look more advanced than mine. For example the Black&Decker seems to be very similar, yet it's much more expensive. So this raised the question for me: will I be able to work better with the expensive ones at all?

The other problem is that I purchased some of those tinier blandes that are for cutting curves. I tried cutting small curves with them, and it doesn't work. The saw cannot maintain the curve, I am unable to follow the line, the saw is staying away from the curve, and cuts a larger curve every time no matter how hard I push towards the curve. And most of the time if I push hard to make it follow the curve it starts burning the wood. Considering more expensive jigsaws have similar mechanism like mine, I wonder if buying a more expensive one will help this at all? I already have Bosch blades, so I wonder if a saw with a similar mechanism will perform better, if I already have the good blades?

I had been thinking okay, maybe these saws cannot cut small curves at all, but then I found this video. Check it from 9:42:



I need to cut the exact same curves, and as you see he is cutting perfectly straight without a guide and can cut the small curves like charm. My saw is struggling with larger curves already, even with Bosch blades. 

So what's the trick here? Is it only that he has a Dewalt jigsaw, or it is more than that? Can buying a pro jigsaw solve all these problems at once or it is more complicated that that?

I need a toilet that slams a lot of water when it is flushed. Recommendations for brands and models?

    Looking for a head badge for a Delta DP-600 drill press. Picture below. Right now I need one but will eventually need 3.  If you have anything you would like to move along – let me know. 


Thanks
Rick


       

I already have plans for Monday or I would be all over this.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/hvo/d/c...10684.html

SOLD: Lie-Nielsen Dovetail Saw: filed 15 ppi rip. Cocobolo Handle. In like new condition. In original box. $349 $299 plus shipping.

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I posted in another thread that several WN self-admin tools are broken (for me anyways).

Subsequently I received the following note from a WN admin. I assume he/she doesn't mind if I share.

FYI:

" We had a ransomware attack early Monday morning and are in the process of rebuilding all our servers - some are back but it may be early next week before the system is fully up and functioning. Sorry for inconvenience."

-Mark

Ok so I have been on a role in the little shop trying to clear out MORE unfinished saw blanks, etc..
First up my personal 17ppi 12" x canted 2" x 0.020" dovetail with mother of pearl inlay and infused maple burl.
20250130_150719 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
my 17ppi saw3 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Next another 16ppi triple loop in walnut
walnut triple loop3 16ppi by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
walnut triple loop1 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Finally a 16" x 4" x 0.025" tenon saw in figured maple 11ppi rip
20250130_190221 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
20250130_190233 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
Lastly an open dovetail for a very patient customer
12" open dovetail, infused maple burl by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
20250130_150532 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
It's been a busy week, but progress finally made clearing out those unsung songs hiding in work bench drawers. Just one drawer left. ( I think) Almost time to start working on this old shack again. Oye Vey.
Well it seems I forgot one last night. I told you it's been a long week.

So here is a 12" x 3" carcass saw filed 14ppi x 15* rake x 25* fleam in walnut. I may clip off the toe at some point as this style was meant to look more traditional.
walnut carcass2 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
20250131_115047 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
20250131_115037 by Ron Bontz, on Flickr" />
And that is that for a long while. I owe, I owe, it's back to work I go.