In my tool accumulation, I have several Stanley Odd-Jobs, including the Simpson Machine Company copy (made in Gettysburg, PA). My question, do any here actually use this tool? Stanley made it for around 30 to 40 years, discontinuing it in the 30's (IIRC), and common sense would say, if it was selling and/or being used, it would still be made.

So, do any here use this tool?

Looking at cutting out panels to make speaker enclosures so max size would be ~40" or less.

Anybody have any suggestions of machines to look at?

Hello all. I’m planning to make a wood bodied smooth plane using the Veritas plane hardware kit. I happen to have on hand a big chunk of walnut—big enough that I could easily saw out a billet in quartersawn orientation. I would laminate something hard wearing (probably bubinga) on for the sole. Does anyone have any experience using walnut for this application? Are there historical examples? Or is this just a bad idea and I should look for something harder or otherwise more suitable?  Thanks.

Edit: this is the hardware kit. It uses a Norris style adjuster. Although there is a cross pin, I think it would be under less stress than a wedged blade.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/too...e-hardware

My remote control died, and has been discontinued.  
Has anyone had this issue, and what was your fix?
The unit still works, I'm using a dowel as my remote.

Thanks in advance,

CADman

Is anyone familiar with the POM brand of table saw? I found one with a slider, but I don't want it if it's crap. There are other tools there that are good quality, but I'm leary of the saw. Thanks!!

So my neighbor hired someone to do some work on her house, and when they were removing a lift they hit the electrical box on the outside of my house (I'm not sure of the terminology.  Most of my electrical knowledge is dealing with stuff inside the house.  I know a bit about the breaker panel.  This is outside my wheelhouse). 

This thing:
   

The round gauge was hit towards the part farthest from the wall.  Right to left.  It definitely deformed the box some.

   
   

The bottom doesn't close all the way, but the box still seems to be attached to the wall.  No idea on the inside (I can tell just by looking at it that everything inside is live, as my whole house breaker is downstream from this.  I'm not going to open this).  I can see that the ground is still attached at the top.
   

Three other views.  I don't think the box attached to the wall moved judging be the sealant (this all seems to be in the same condition around the box), it seems that the brunt was taken by the door.

   
   
   

So what level of concern should I have with this?

A) Egads that is bad.  Get an electrician out there now.
B) Probably is fine, but might want to have an electrician come look at it.  But no reason to pay weekend/holiday rates.
C) Doesn't matter, it's fine.

And the power in the house seems fine.  No flicker of the lights or anything when it happened.

Also, if I need to have someone look at it is this typical electrician work, or do I need to get the city/power provider involved since it is prior to my whole house breaker?

Thanks in advance.

One of the nice things about moving (maybe the ONLY nice thing!) is that you get to see items that you almost never use.
So it is time to cull the herd!

220 Volt heater purchased at Menards.  Used just this last heating season until I got the Mini-split hooked up.

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-coo...&exp=false

$60 plus shipping

   

   

Two Shop Fox Press Screws.  Used once!

https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D2893-Pr...172&sr=8-1

$25 plus shipping

   

Woodcraft Four Way Panel Clamps

I have three sets of these plus a setup that I made that can clamp a panel about 36" x 44".  The retail total would be $134. 97 plus tax not including the homemade rack.
I even upgraded the clamps by replacing the weak plastic blocks with steel square tube.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodr...ing-system

$100.00 plus shipping
Shipping with the rack would be difficult so either ship without rack or just shipping the clamp parts.

   

   

A roll of 12" blue masking tape.  VERY little used.  I tried it as a mask to rout through for my CNC but it didn't really work on precise work.

https://www.amazon.com/Painters-Yards-Pr...hdGY&psc=1

$20 plus shipping

   

Lastly, I have a Jet Air Cleaner.  I do NOT have the remote.
The tape residue is from a corner I tape on in my old shop to keep me from hitting my head!

Retails for around $350 new and once again, shipping could be an issue.

How about $125

   

   

And if whoever buys 2 or more items, I will give them this vise.

   

All prices are negotiable especially if you buy several items!!

Thanks,

Toney

1 streight----1 curved----3/4'' x 16'' tip to tip----$75        3 carbide tools---2 full size---1 small-----1 of the large is a negative rake scraper--$60     pickup magnolia,de 19962-----or pay shipping------pictures to be sent upon receiving your email address

I'm still frequently on this site, but it's been a while since I've posted and it's time to clear out a few items I don't use. Up for sale is a new Veritas Medium Shoulder Plane, including the original box. While this plane has not been used, it was subject to some moisture/water while still wrapped in the protective (oil-coated?) paper, so there was some surface rust and there is a little bit of pitting on the sides, but it doesn't affect the plane at all. The A2 blade is as new and has not been sharpened. All hardware and screws are in good condition and move freely. Attached are multiple pictures of the plane taken today, but if you need more or have any questions, please ask.

Asking $167.00 shipped (CONUS). Check, money order, PayPal accepted.

Thanks,

-jason

Cross Posted


SOLD



From the Lee Valley Website:

The Veritas medium shoulder plane is proportioned for versatility; it measures 7" long by 11/16" wide and weighs 2 lb. The ductile cast iron body is accurately machined and ground so that the sole and sides are flat and square.

If you have ever used or even held a traditional shoulder plane, you will appreciate how this plane comes to hand. The unique lever cap with a pivoting knob lets you adjust the plane to fit your hand and preferred holding style. The concave knob rests in the web of your hand, giving you a secure grip without the need of a vise-like pressure.

The through-hole in the body adds to grip security but has to be experienced to be understood. The plane’s adjustable toe lets you narrow the mouth for very fine shavings with minimum tear-out. The low bed angle of 15° combined with the 25° blade bevel results in a cutting angle of 40° for exceptional end-grain cutting performance. Set screws along the side let you accurately position the blade and require no adjustment when replacing the blade after sharpening.

Blades are lapped, 1/8" (0.125") thick, and come in A2, O1 or PM-V11 tool steel.


   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

I have some Poplar (5’x 9”x 1½”) that will be a bar top in my BBQ shelter. I want to route in the names of the friends that helped me build the shelter. I am mobility challenged. What sequence of dyes, stains, and weather protection should I apply? I know Poplar does not stain well.

Bill