I accidentally spilled a few drops of chain saw oil on a teak table I’m restoring for a friend. I tried using denatured alcohol on it and the stain is still there. Any suggestions to get it out?

Back to cleaning out the workshop...

I have for sale as the subject line references a Performax 16-32 Plus Drum Sander.  I haven't used it in a few years and it needs a new home and I need to clean out the workshop so I can get back on some projects.  I'm asking $350 and this price includes the stand as well as an array of sanding belts.  

The machine works flawlessly, is quite useful and aligns accurately.  I upgraded the conveyor roller and switch. Great at eliminating snipe marks and overall just getting a smooth surface in minutes. No issues with it since I purchased it.

I would prefer local pickup as the drum sander is expensive to ship, but would consider it if the buyer is willing to pay for boxing it up.  I would be willing to meet someone within a reasonable distance.  I live in Williamsburg, VA

Ask any questions you have.

Thanks
Brian

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[attachment=47695][attachment=47695][attachment=47696][attachment=47697]More cleaning out of my workshop...

As noted above in the subject line, I have an Excalibur Model EXSLT40 Sliding Table for sale for $350.  I had this sliding table on my Unisaw and removed it as I need to room.  This table is in very good condition, has all parts and is spot on square when installed. If you're not familiar with this table, Google it and watch the videos.  

Specifications:
Crosscut Capacity -
- With the fence mounted to the front of the table - 28"
- With the fence mounted to the rear of the table - 49" (yes a 48" sheet of plywood can be cut)
Size of sliding table - 26"W x 32"L
Length of fence - 54"

I would prefer a local pickup as this table is expensive to ship.  I would be willing to meet someone within a reasonable distance.  I live in Williamsburg, VA

Please feel free to ask me any questions.

Thanks
Brian

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I have a couple of questions for those who do a lot of turning.
     1) Has anyone tried wrapping green logs with shrink wrap to preserve them until they can be turned?? I came into some cherry, sycamore, and ash logs I want to turn this winter. It's been some time since I had a chance to turn anything.
     2) I am cutting down a large Locust tree, the kind with the monster thorns. ( ouch ) Better than 24 inches at the base. How does Locust turn, green and after the drying process. ie: rough turn, soak in denatured alcohol, wrap in construction paper, and slowly dry, then re-turn.
     3) lastly, if anyone wants a piece of this thorny tree and live close to Edwardsville/ Holiday Shores, IL. you are welcome to have a chunk. Thorn free, of course.
. Otherwise it will wind up as fire wood of some sort.
Best wishes,
Ron

I started building a Moravian bench 2 years ago. And I finally got back to it yesterday. I must say that this is the most challenging bench I have ever built. It is not for the faint hearted. A Roubo is much easier. In one of the pictures is the block that holds the vise hardware. the other is just the chop. I need to get the ends glued together so I can cut the dove tailed pieces on the end. I got the sockets done. The piece that holds the vise hardware is not yet mortised in. And the last picture is the 4 inch top I haven't decided is I am going to do a split top or put on a tool tray or a split top with a tool tray. I have a couple of boards under the stretchers that keep the end pieces off the bench top about 1/32 if an inch for easier removal and installation. One picture is the only print I have of the bench and believe me most is made to the size it is because I chose those sizes. and the print is coffee stained to boot. Since cherry is my favorite wood and  I got some walnut at a very good price, the legs are walnut and the top is Ash. On the bench every thing is setting on the legs and stuff are cherry 

anyway pictures,

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

Anyway thanks for looking.

Tom

I have a #5 smooth bottom Stanley Bailey for sale. I has one patient date. I do not worry about types but I think it may be a 13 or 14. The frog's face has a full machined face and it is close fitting at the bottom. The knob and tote are rosewood and have no cracks. I stripped and repainted it a while back. This was my personal plane until I got my K5C finished. The sides have been ground square to the bottom and at the time of grinding the bottom was .0002 out of flat. It could have moved a little in over the three years I have used it.  It does have a couple of spots on it. I precision ground the blade Flat so there is no need to lap or use the ruler trick.

Asking $140 plus shipping.

Anyway pictures say a lot.  

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking,

Tom

I picked up an old Stanley 24" folding rule # 66 3/4 at a garage sale for 25 cents.  I did a light cleaning to get the surface dirt off of it.  Now the wood looks kind of dry.  What would be good to coat the wood with?  Boiled Linseed oil might darken it too much.  Should I just apply some paste wax and call it a day or is there something better?

Thanks!

Should I fill the bottom 2" or so with gravel, or is it ok just to leave the dirt.  The holes in the sides are a lot larger than the pipe going through them. I am wondering about sealing around the pipe.

Fourteen mostly vintage chisels in this lot, assorted sweeps, sizes, etc..Swiss Made, Wade and Butcher, Buck Brothers {England} and others...Sold as a lot only..keep what you want and sell the rest...$130.00 Your personal check {if I know you} or USPS Money Order..Shipping is NOT included but they should ship in a medium Flat Rate box for $17.00..USA sale only {sorry} PM me.....Thanks for looking......

So most of the interior wood trim (base boards door ways etc) has oil based paint on it.

Is there a paint that makes repainting easier now? Really dont want to use oil based again. Quick drying easy clean up would be great

Or am I dreaming?