Turning a red dragon egg from a piece of spalted walnut cap and Alumilite clear slow resin

In case you missed it, LV mid-year seconds sale just started.

G0513X2 17" BS that has been a workhorse for more than 15 years cutting through hundreds (thousands?) of feet including resawing 8" billets of ash and maple and have never had a major problem.  I routinely release the tension after a session and often clean gunk and debris off the tires.  On applying tension during startup I spin the wheels by hand to make sure the blade is tracking before turning it on.  When I did this two days ago, suddenly there was resistance in the spin.  I looked down to discover that the severed lower tire was trying to crawl up the saw spine.  The cut on the tire was straight across, almost like someone used a razor blade to cut it.

Not long after getting the saw I bought a set on new (urethane) tires in case the saw was discontinued, so dug them out of the drawer still in the original Griz packaging.  Instructions call for heating a large pot of water to >150 F (I used 175F), soak the tire for 10-15 minutes, then apply while the tire is still hot.  Four tries of this got nowhere close to getting the tire on, including LOMLs help holding part of it while I tried to get the remainder on.  Part of the problem, I think, is that by the time you get the tire up on the wheel it has cooled down a lot and is no longer "hot."  Also, there is a large section needing a LOT of stretch after about 2/3 is in place.

I need the collective wisdom of the WN brain trust here, including any direct similar experience.  Thoughts I had include (a) trying hotter water; (b) using some sort of stretcher to expand the hot tire before trying to mount it; and © ordering a fresher set from Grizzly.  I hesitate using a heat gun for fear of destroying the thing.

In years past I replaced the tires on an old Craftsman saw (which were rubber) with no problem at all.

Ideas/opinions/comments are requested.

Gary

Since I am doing woodworking and looking for information on finishing, sanding always comes up as a crucial step in the process, almost as a kind of holy grail of a nice finish. When I mention somewhere that I have problems with this and this stuff, be it a paint, stain, varnish, usually the very first comments include: "Did you sand?". I have found this article recently, let me know your opinions about it:

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I started my day with the first picture. I finally got my Moravian bench bottom glued together and getting every thing flushed up, corners rounded over for easier handling, and ready to finish the bottom

   

The rest of my day

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

This is how I finished my day working on the 2 dovetailed stretchers

   

So what am I trying to say, that I am against dust collectors and air cleaners? No, I have 6 dust collectors and 2 air cleaners and I have found that I can not collect 100% of the dust and chips at any machine. I have gone mostly to battery powered sanders and small routers and if I do not want to be connected by a cord then I figure I do not want to be connected to a vac. Some times a broom and dust pan are good enough

Tom

I know that the great conundrum with DC vs vacuum, is that DC provides more airflow at a lower velocity and shop vacs provide more static pressure with less actual air flow. 

As I understand part of the reason for this, is the ability for universal motors on vacs to turn at much higher speeds. 

With the higher horsepower required to run a DC impeller you can’t really use a universal motor.

With the availability of variable frequency drives these days, why could you not design a DC that used 5hp 3 phase motor, and rather than run it at 3450 RPM run it faster and get more static pressure?

Duke

Wife is doing a project with an old claw foot tub. She stripped the outside, but there was surface rust. I picked up Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer- it is oil based. Can we apply a basic exterior “latex” paint over it?
It will be left outside once it is painted

My house is modular.  7 years old.  2 boxes, the back half and front half.  The marriage wall runs lengthwise down the middle of the house.  I was doing the last of the plumbing on the new main line for the sprinkler and happened to notice the siding on the front of the house was spaced off the foundation.  The sheathing hangs down about 3" from the bottom of the bottom plate on the wall.  At first I thought the sheathing was pulling away from the wall.  I can fit my fingers in the gap between the sheathing and the foundation.  I can feel and see that the bottom plate overhangs, the sheathing is still tight to it. It seems to be a fairly consistent gap along the front of the house.  The front porch is tight to the front of the house and it is lined up with the foundation along the front edge.  My presumption is if the front of the house had moved at all, it would have pushed the porch forward as well, or be bowed in because the porch isn't moving.  The treated sill plate has not moved.  The edge is still lined up with the foundation. At the moment I am assuming that the front box was just placed poorly, or the foundation was built 3/4" too small, or something like that.   Should I be concerned enough to go under the house and check things out? There's no evidence inside the house that the boxes are separating - no cracked drywall, no doors that stick, etc.

Lie-Nielsen Dowel Plate - used to precision standardize size when making hardwood dowels - imperial fractional sizes - 1/8, 3/16,  1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8. 5 degree clearance angle, still in factory sealed package, L-N price $100 + sh
selkl for $35 conus shpping included.

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THE FLOWER OF LIFE

Hello once again everyone I had some time to work  and have made some good progress on this project. I'm over half way around carving flowers on the inside rim and have six of the flowers on the outside carved. I have other photos of the start of this project if anyone want's to see them let me know.

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