So most of the interior wood trim (base boards door ways etc) has oil based paint on it.

Is there a paint that makes repainting easier now? Really dont want to use oil based again. Quick drying easy clean up would be great

Or am I dreaming?

Nova live center system—$ 50 ——- craft supply apprentice collet system—7 piece set—-$ 50 or both for $90——pick up magnolia,de or pay shipplng—- pictures sent upon receiving your email address

I have a barely-used Leigh Frame Mortise and Tenon Jig with all the templates.  I had all the solid carbide spiral bits, but I can't find them right now.  The standard 5/16" solid carbide spiral bit is there (in the router).

All other parts/accessories are there, including the manual.  (The extra templates and spiral bits were add-on accessories in addition to the basic jig).

$600 for the jig and templates.  $700 with the Dewalt 621 Plunge router attached.  Prefer not to ship, probably looking at +$100 to ship.

Meet/pickup in the SW Metro Atlanta area.

Clamps have been sold.

Is it more fun when you start a piece and your gouge goes from "Chunka Chunka Chunka" to "Ssssssss" or when you put on the first coat of sealer / finish and you get the first glimpse of what everybody else will see in the grain?

Its a tie for me. Getting down to round makes all the work to that point worth it but seeing the grain pop out is why I'm there at all.

How about you?

Older style no.71 router plane has natural wood handles, overall good finish on plane, only issue is blade adjustment is missing, stud cracked off in plane body. Has one cutter. $50 plus shipping.
No.66 beading tool, has no blades or guides on it?? The finish on tool in good condition. $25 plus shipng

For Sale are two hand vises. One is a Millers Falls with two handles (which are seldom seen together) and tools as pictured. The other is a Rollis with tools as pictured.  All the tool handles are rosewood are in great condition.  The handles operate as they should.  I would like $55.00+ shipping for the Millers Falls vise and for the Rollis vise.  You can pay by check (has to clear) or money order.  Email if you have questions.  I live in  Michigan 48114.



    



    



    



    

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I salvaged a few outdoor sitting benches. They have aluminum frames and are pretty cheaply made. Do they use red cedar on these dept store benches. Just wondering it looks like pine but after cutting it up I got the "cedar itches"

I have a problem with painting enamel on wood. When I apply the first coat, it flares nicely, but when I apply the second, it does not. I do wait 24 hours between the coats as the manufacturer suggests. But yet when I apply the second coat, the brushmarks remain after drying. This problem appears almost every time I use enamel paints, regardless of brands. When I apply them to porous surface, they flare, but when I apply them to metal or a first layer, so something that is not porous, the brushmarks remain. Can you suggest something to improve this? Maybe spraying something between coats?

The paint in question is not available in the US. I am abroad, this is a local brand here, but it I guess it is similar to this one:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown...latex-base

I am using matte version of the paricular brand here. The chemical content is alkyd resin, the solvent is mineral spirits. I have the same problem when using varnishes here, where the solvent is mineral spirits. This problem does not occur, when I use water based version of enamel paint. That one flares, no brushmarks, no bubbles. But those are not very thick. Solvent based enamels leave a thicker film, it is less time to apply the finish if you use those. 

Here are the photos:

The solvent based enamel 1. coat
https://i.ibb.co/fF27xwW/enamel-1.jpg

The solvent based enamel 2.  coat
https://i.ibb.co/6RpTbbY/enamel-2.jpg

Water based enamel:
https://i.ibb.co/WytT8L1/enamel-water.jpg

Now that I have cut in the line that will feed the sprinkler system I ordered a vacuum breaker.  It includes unions.  However, my original plan was to buy 3 identical unions.  I would put 1 on each side of the vacuum breaker but reverse them. I could then remove the vacuum breaker and use each half of the 3rd to blow the line out, cap the line, etc.  am I over thinking this?  Is there a reason the vacuum breaker can't stay on in the winter so long as the line is drained?