Got a new exterior door, steel.  Wife says it shall be made green.  Why shouldn't I use the Rustoleum rattle cans?  It'll be behind a storm door on a covered porch.

liquidation continues -
antique miter box/stand, VG condition
Langdon/Disston miter saw, fresh sharpen
Wentworth saw vise, VG/excellent condition

Sell the group for $100, local pickup southern Indiana near Louisville

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I flipped the pages of the shop tips in a magazine that belongs to my neighbor.

Published: mount the plane upside down in a vise , and use it to shape pen blanks with a bare hand to make pens.

Wow.....

Is this what happened when there were no more old tips left that could be recycled (for the third time)?

Simon

In-between the woodworking projects....I tend to use any "Downtime" to do a bit of "Upkeep"...case in point?    A $2 Garage Sale item..
   
Missing a few things...seems to be just a basic entry level Mitre Box...Owner said the saw is long gone ( couldn't sharpen it?)   Then have to carry this HEAVY thing to the Chevy..about 50 yards away...
   
Those Phillips headed bolts are connected to SQUARE nuts...
   
Red Tag Sale?

Took 2 work sessions in the shop...one to tear this all down...clean the rust off, free up any stuck parts...learn HOW the swing arm went back together....Paint all the bare metal BEFORE it had a chance to rust back up...
   
I had to remove the Red deck plates, to both clean and re-paint them, and...be able to remove the legs...
   

Plates and legs look a little better..
   
Dig around for a saw that will fit....a 4" X 24" saw did NOT...which left..
   

A Disston WS 5" x 28" Mitre Box saw...
So..for the "After"?
   
Millers Falls No 72c....

Not too bad? For $2?

Last one.

Freud dado blade set - SD208. Chipper has a minor flaw in the carbide. Sell for $40 plus shipping. (Last picture shows how it'll be shipped. It might cost a little bit more, but I will make sure it gets to you safely.)
           

Even more…


Micro-Jig splitter kits. Two unopened, one previously used. Sell for $40 plus shipping.
   

DeWalt blade stabilizer. Free, just pay shipping.
   

Various makes of block plane blades. Your choice, $5 each plus shipping. Take them all for $25 plus shipping.
           

DeWalt scroll saw chuck head. Nothing wrong with it, I upgraded to a Pegas chuck. Not really sure on this one; how's $15 plus shipping sound?
   

Homemade jointer knife-setting jig. At the time I had a small 4" jointer, and it worked quite well for that size. Probably work decently on a 6" too. (This was built from a Nick Engler concept. I'm sure it's still floating around on the innerweb somewhere.) The dials and magnet are HF cheapies, but they worked fine for this jig. $15 plus shipping.
       

Last night, the smoke detectors went off.  False alarm, just like two two months ago.  The detectors are not yet two years old; I replaced all of the original detectors at the same time since I didn't know how old they were (we bought the house in 2014.)

These are Kidde ionization detectors, Model i12010S.  There are 5 detectors and they are hard-wired and interconnected, I think.  The backup power battery in them is a sealed lithium battery not intended to be replaced.

Kidde's documentation on how these things work is slim; there's not much to go on in terms of troubleshooting.  A search on this issue after the last set of false alarms indicated that dust inside the collectors could cause a problem.  We live in a rural area and it's dusty, particularly with two years of drought going on.  I took all of the units down and blew compressed air through them.  Thought I had the problem solved, until last night.

These things only go off like this in the middle of the night; never in the daytime.

Does anybody have any experience with these things that might help me solve the problem?

I'm willing to throw these out and install new.  Are there any better quality units out there intended for DIY install?

Thanks in advance.

We built our house 20 years ago and they installed ridge vents. Since the beginning the second floor would get warm in the late afternoon early evening during the summer. Doing some research I realized it was from the attic insulation becoming superheated and radiating into the house. That research also said the attic should be close to the temperature outside if properly ventilated, mine has always been significantly hotter. Now 20 years later I had a roofing contractor out specifically to look at the wind damaged barn roof and he also surveyed my house roof. The house has three large dormers whose ridges are below the main house ridge. He is claiming the ventilation is shunting from these ridges to the main ridge and we are getting no circulation from the soffit vents. Some of his evidence is moss and fungus growing on the roof at the base of the dormer ridge vents. He claims getting rid of the ridge vents on the dormers will significantly improve the attic ventilation and keep it cooler. Dose this make sense or is he blowing smoke to get more work? He wants to replace the whole house roof not just fix the ridge vents since it has a couple lifted shingles.

Various odds-n-ends for sale to clear up some space.

Fletcher frame point setter. Great condition, just doesn't get enough use. Yours for $28 plus shipping.
   

Rockler bench cookie cones and risers (8 of each). Brand new from purchasing a set, just won't use these. Cones: $7 plus shipping. Risers: $15 plus shipping. Both for $20 plus shipping.
   

Various brands of 4" aluminum blast gates, 12 total. They've all been used and have silicone/caulking, etc., Will sell the whole lot for $85 plus shipping.
   

Millers Falls square, as found condition. $15 plus shipping.
           

Rockler drawer slide jig. Sell for $20 plus shipping.
   

Sharpening stone, very lightly used. $10 plus shipping.
           

I have been trying to use alcohol dye (aniline dye), but never succeed to paint the wood nicely with it. The problem is: when there is a spot where brushstrokes overlap, usually they will become visible as darker stripes. A frequent problem for example: You paint the sides, then you paint he top side, and tip off the egde from excess, but even if the dye is still wet on the sides and the surface there seems to be uniform, the outcome will be a stripe from tipping when the dye dries. So just one  little unwanted overlap, and the woodpiece is garbage. Something that is really annoying. And that's a pity, because I prefer alcohol  dyes to water dyes, the colors are more vibrant. But because of this problem I cannot use them at all. Any idea how to avoid this problem? See the photo as example attached.


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