Now that BC in CT has sold his, I also have a few for sale. Here's a second chance for anyone who missed those: 


NOVA Chuck accessories for sale; 


50mm (approx 2") chuck jaws. Used good condition.  $35 plus shipping.

130mm (just over 5") chuck jaws. Excellent condition (if used, can't tell)  $65 plus shipping. 

2 Woodworm Screw Chucks (fits in chuck). Almost new, (if used, can't tell)  $15 each plus shipping.


Note shipping all three costs barely more than shipping one.  Guestimate $8-12. 

These fit all Nova Chucks.
Adapter used for Nova Infinity Chuck. If you have an Infinity, I have jaws and chuck for those.  

All offers cheerfully considered.  Payment by Zelle or PayPal (Most credit/debit cards can be used through PayPal)

Contact PM or e-mail  cpa@taxmancpa.com. Pics available on request.  

Thanks for looking!!!

Folks, 

I haven't been able to find a specific answer to a hopefully simple question.

If an hour meter on a lawn mower reads 396.1 and underneath the readout it says "hours 1/10", does this mean it has 396.1 hours or 3961 hours?

Thanks,
Mark

I replaced my heat pump a year ago with a Trane system.

Cooling and heating is good now (had some problems along the way) but one of the thermostats has started "drifting" and is not tracking actual temperature compared to a standard...sometimes as much as +/- 5 degrees.  I initially tried using the "calibrate" function but it does not help.  Unfortunately the temperature reading is just not repeatable.

Thermostat is a Trane XL824.  I am trying to get the system provider/installer to supply me with a replacement so that I can swap it out myself.

In the event they won't swap one with me I'd like to just buy a CHEAP thermostat and wire it in while I am trying to get a warranty replacement from Trane.

What do you recommend?

(IMHO the Trane transmitter is overpiced for the system in use..  Cost ~ $350.)

Building a dining table out of spalted maple for LOML. She's in love with the spalted look and wants a clear non-yellowing finish that is durable for every day use. We're easy on our furniture and don't have to be concerned with kids/pets, etc. That said we'd like a durable, easy to maintain finish.

Fortunately there's no rush to complete the project so I have plenty of time for drying and curing. Will have to apply with a brush. Shop temp is low 70's with humidity 45-50%. The maple has been in my shop for 6 years.

The Minwax Oil Modified WB poly sounds good but some say it turns amber so that is a no-no. There are several General Finishes WB polys--but not sure which would be the best for a dining table. Curious which you all prefer?

Thanks,  Gary

I am going to install a handrail on a set of stairs.  I can either use wedge anchors (like below) or threaded rod with epoxy. Is either method better?
Thanks.

   

My nephew has wired up circuits to his garage sub-panel. Now he needs to get power there without trenching due to trees. I'm familiar with main service drops from the pole to the main breaker/panel as well as temp services for job sites but have always gone underground to sheds and garages. I have a spool of "direct bury" that would satisfy the current requirements but I'm not sure if it could also be rated for overhead; I have many other conductors/cables that he's welcome to if it'll pass code. Also not sure if he needs a grounding conductor all the way back to the main panel (vs. a separate grounding rod at the garage). 

Next is the connection(s) at the mast/structure. Typically the neutral is used for securing then all the conductors are spliced with a drip loop at the weatherhead. If he needs a ground, can I assume it's o.k. to use it for securing purposes? 

So what are the wire designations required or allowed (ie. SER, SEU, THHN, THHW) for these three parts of the run?
Main panel, out and up house to Weatherhead:
Weatherhead to Weatherhead; (This is overhead, so how high and what designations are allowed?)
Weatherhead to sub-panel:

Thanks

Kitchen table, solid maple, 35+ year old Ethan Allen, back when they made pretty solid stuff.  I'm assuming a nitro lacquer finish.  Wife left leaking gallon jug of water on table, I have streaks and areas of lifted finish (larger cracks that chipped) in maybe 15% of the top.  Table is about 6 feet long, 38" wide.  I know I could strip the entire top and refinish, but is it possible to do a "french polish-type" of repair to the lacquer using a rag pad and Lacquer Thinner?  The luthiers talk about this technique but on a much, much smaller scale.

Any observations or advice is appreciated.

I have posted pictures many times on this forum.  Although it's cumbersome, I've been able to make it work.  I know about all the size limitations and such, unless they have changed in the past 24 hours.

Last night, I attempted to upload a picture from my computer.  I got this response when I went to add an attachment:

403 ERROR
The request could not be satisfied.

Making a flower peddle shaped end grain bowl from a red cedar cut off.

I have the following NOVA Chuck accessories up for sale, everything is new and unused.

2 sets of 50mm, chuck jaws JS50N.  $35 each set plus shipping.

2 Woodworm Screw Chucks No. 10006. $15 each plus shipping.