This is a very rare one....a J.D. Darlington DT saw with a "nosed handle"..very seldom seen in any brand. Ten inch long blade, Made by Harvey Peace, Brooklyn N.Y. sometime between 1865/75..Excellent condition for being ~175 years old. Just a light touch up with a file will put it sharp and ready to go back to work..Selling for $50.00 plus actual priority shipping to your specific zip code. Personal check or USPS money order...I don't use PP anymore.  USA sale only {sorry} PM me. Thanks for looking.

I have a 28-200 Rockwell  band saw that I bought new in 1979 with 6" riser block in good condition. It has a 1/2hp motor. I am considering switching the motor out for a 1 1/2hp for better re-saw abilities. I saw a new Vevar 1 1/5 HP motor on Ebay for $161.
Has anyone else done this and any thoughts?

Rockler Magnetic Jointer Jig
Still in plastic in original box
I got rid of the jointer before I ever used it
45 bucks at Rockler or Amazon
How about $25 and $8 for shipping
I will handle paypal fees
CONUS only

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Also, what should it include?

Shelves/cabinets for finishes and tools
Air line for sprayers
Utility sink to wash out brushes
A table with a lazy susan
A few movable light sources

Anything else?

Hardly used
Pm-v11 blade
Box and all the paper work
$325

Pm for pics, I can’t get them to load

I just recently upgraded my table saw from a powermatic 66 to a new sawstop professional cabinet saw 3hp and now just purchased the 4” sawstop overarm dust collector.  My question is what is the best way to hook both of these up to my dust collector?  Do I do them separately to my dust collector that has two dust imports on it?  Or do I tie the overarm dust hose into my cabinet saw and if so is it best to use a “Y” or a “T”?  Was curious about the best way for air flow.  Running a 2hp mobile dust collector.

I am looking to upgrade my old 2hp dust collector and I am mostly using it for my new sawstop 3 hp professional saw and the overarm 4” dust collector.  I know each require 400 cfm minimum.  What do I gain by going for 2hp and 1200 cfm vs 1 1.2hp and 11oo cfm and save $100? my shop is mobile in my garage and I have not piped any dust collector ducting in it and really dont plan to as I like the mobility the mobile dust collector gives me.  I am curious if it’s worth it to get the 2hp and spend the extra moolah.  
thanks in advance!

   
   
   

I have a pile of 80-year-old walnut boards. Also shown is a closeup of the “wormy” surface. I’m hoping to sell these locally, saying they might be good for making an antique-looking farm table. I’m fairly sure the cause is NOT powder post beetles, as there was no brown frass when I picked up the pile. These boards have been in my shed forever in northern Illinois where it gets below zero in winter. Wouldn’t that temp kill whatever it is?  
My question is, might these be sellable, or would any knowledgeable woodworker run away as fast as possible?

I'm wanting to sell these 80-year-old boards locally. I might say they would make an antique-looking farm table. BUT ... look at the photos. They are "wormy."
I'm sure it is NOT powderpost beetles, as there was no brown frass when I moved the pile. And we live in northern Illinois where it gets below zero in winter.
My question is: Might these be useful boards, or would any self-respecting woodworker run away from them as fast as possible?
Did the photos load? they dont show in the preview.

Hi, I have an awkward space in my house where I need to frame an opening, like a door way but 11' wide. There is already a wing wall on one side so will be adding a 5" wide (just enough for casing) or so wing wall on the opposite side and a header that drops down from the ceiling about 12". I have pulled drywall and added blocking. need to make the header portion which will be like a 2x6 ladder, 11" wide total and thus 8" blocking in between. 

I don't have a framing nailer so usually use deck screws but need to try it out to see if it will split the blocking between the 2x6's. Don't know much about framing but it seems they nail like that all the time. I may also get some metal 90 deg brackets, only a $1.50 ea. Of course the ends of the 12' 2x6's will be well screwed into a stud on the walls but still want this rigid to avoid drywall joint cracking. 

Is predrill, screw good enough or should I add reinforcement of some kind?

Thanks

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