[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Turning a 14 inch Curly maple, Padauk, & Wenge bowl I have named the "Racer Bowl" since it reminds me of the racing stripe on an old car or motorcycle.[/font]

Kind of a woodworking tool. Thinking about getting a hose reel for the woodworking shop to install over the workbench and use for various portable power tools around the shop. Found this VEVOR on Amazon. Gets high marks and has 12 gauge wire. 

Any comments on dos and don'ts? Anyone have a favorite?

Doug

20+ years ago I built the Traditional European workbench featured in Woodsmith #50. Served me well but is now pretty tired. Top has split, the quick release face vise has failed and I find the handle on the tail vise getting in the way at that end. I have quite a bit of lumber squirreled away for the undercarriage but will probably have to purchase the material for the top.

I'm thinking about a Roubo style bench because I like the idea of the front legs being inline with the front edge of the top. I will probably opt for a face vise on the front left (I've acquired a Record quick-release model) and am thinking of using a wagon vise from  Hovarter on the right end. I've spoken with Len Horarter (the inventor) a couple of times, nice guy, very customer oriented and this vise seems to be somewhat unique and easy to install.

This original bench had a tray on the back of the top, which I've rarely ever used. The bench top in total is 27" wide by about 5 1/2' long, plenty large enough for my purposes. I do not do any exoitic woodworking, i.e. I'm looking for a practical and functional bench. For dovetails a separate Moxon vise will work.

Things to think about:

1) Size of the top - On my original bench I used a lot of reclaimed material for the top; good at the time, not-so-good in the long run. I made the aprons to the spec of 3 1/2" thick (including the section for the traditional dogs) and the rest of the top right at 2" or so. Should I go with a thick 4" top all the way or just on the aprons?

2) Material - My present bench is made entirely of hardwoods. In Chris Schwartz's book on workbenches, he recommends Southern Yellow Pine as well as other species. Any ideas?

3) Dogs - The traditional retangular, angled, through-the-top dogs in the past were pretty much the standard. Now it seems that round dogs like the ones sold by Lee Valley are popular. Some are through dogs (penetrate the top) and others only protrude a couple of inches and stop. Same thing on the slide unit for the Wagon Vise. I've thought about reusing the original dog unit from my old vise, just to save material and time. What say you?

Would appreciate your opinions and thoughts on these items as well as any others you might consider important.

Doug

Application rate is 2 oz per gallon for northern lawns an 1 oz per gallon for southern lawns.  Why the difference?  My lawn in NC is tall fescue - would 2 oz per gallon be a problem?  1 oz per gallon doesn't seem like much?

Rick

Like new

Panel saw

Bad axe Premium D8 Panel Saw- 24R6 Large
Filling: Rip-Cut
Pitch: 6 ppi
Fasteners: Brass Slotted
Species: Walnut
Size: Large
$300


SOLD

I have a Bailey #3 type 11 flat bottom plane for sale. The sides have been precision ground square to the bottom, and the bottom has also been precision ground and is flat within .001.The japanning for the most part is in excellent condition. it was a little dull and some missing at the toe and heel. I touched it up with a coat of paint. The top of the blade has also been precision touched up so no lapping is necessary. I also sharpened it. The tote is stained cherry and the knob is walnut. The knob and tote were made by me. Yes I am prejudice but this is one of the nicest little plane to come along in quit a while.

Asking $110 shipped conus.

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

I am working on a walnut project.  I want to dye or stain the lighter areas to reduce the contracts with the darker areas - I am not trying to match just want to get the lighter areas a little darker and I need to fill some holes, cracks, etc.  I need a filler that will take the dye/stain.  I will be using Watco Danish Oil and poly to finish it after everything is filled and dyed.  The Watco will make things a little browner, but it doesn't really darken the lighter areas that much.  Suggestions?  DAP has a wood filler that matches Walnut surprisingly well but you can't really dye it and it doesn't take the oil, so it always looks lighter than the rest of the wood.

Did woodnet change how their counting users browsing, the numbers are an order of magnitude higher then a couple of weeks ago.

I have a husqvarna pressure washer that I picked up on clearance from Lowes a few years back its model 020711 which is a 2.5gpm 3100 psi model.

I started it up yesterday and the motor runs fine, but it wont pump water, I’d like to replace the pump with a Cat brand pump, I know I would need to keep similar pump ratings, and match the shaft size, but if I do that, will the bolt pattern line up?

Nobody local carry’s the pumps, and I’d like to know before I order it.  

Or if I can find a measured drawing of the Cat pump, I could measure my bolt pattern.

Thanks 
Duke

Even with a 10% discount...
   
That Stanley 2-3/8" iron was $12..but..
   
Was $90 + tax!  Union No. 41...from BEFORE Stanley ground off the "UNION" labels...

Has both 5/16" cutters.

Asking price was $100....got the 20% off Offer cut to 10%...
A bit of chipping at the base of the knob...otherwise it is in fine shape..


Was that kind of a day, yesterday..
   
And..OUCH!
   
Could have gotten a wooden Match set...
   
But, went with the Union #41 instead...

Simple rule:  IF a tool is in one of these..
   
And they have to come and unlock the doors...$$$....a very late model Stanley #4-1/2 (post WW2 era) was $125+tax?
Saws?
   
There was a saw hanging just above this one...
   
Road Trip was a bit expensive....