(Not exactly woodworking but related).  Over the years I have always wished for some way to join two metal pieces without resorting to screws or bolts or figuring out how to do the project with wood (for example, installing a small cleat on a tubular steel bar).  Mind you, I am no machinist!

HValley Tools, AKA MLCS, is advertising a small handheld welder for a reasonable price (currently on sale for $135):

https://www.hvalleytools.com/product/z52...er/welders

Does anyone have any experience with this device or something similar, or have any thoughts about how useful the tool might be for light welding?

Gary

I needed to make some off angle parts the other day.  That is not as easy with a RAS as it is with a CMS since the RAS only has detents at 90 and 45 degrees.  Yes, the angle gage I made helps for standard angles, but for other angles it's suck and seek.  That started me thinking about a better way.  Around the same time, I watched a YouTube guy demonstrate the Duby Sled.  Eureka, I can adapt that idea to the RAS.  And here it is:



It's just about exactly the size of two Duby sleds, side by side, 38" wide by 27" deep with 30" fences.  It uses the same pivot system concept that I use on my shooting boards, which keeps the edge of the fence exactly at the edge of the blade no matter the angle.  The miter table is held in place by a cleat on the bottom at the back that goes into the space normally occupied by the fence in the normal setup.  It slides in and out easily.     

You can cut any angle up to 50 degrees w/o moving the saw arm and the fences never need to be replaced because the saw always travels the same path. For 90 degree cuts, leave both fences in place.  Angled trim cuts also can be made with both fences in place by rotating one fence.  For angled cutoffs, however, one fence needs to be removed.  This is easily done by removing the holding knobs and lifting the fence off.  



The above photo also shows the stops behind both fences, which are used to calibrate the fences to exactly 0 degrees.  

There is an angle scale on both sides of the table for setting the fence at the correct angle.  I put lines on it for 4 sided (45 deg) to 20 sided (10 deg) frames, plus a couple of other angles.  



This has nothing to do with the miter table, but cut quality of this saw/blade is outstanding. 

 
The miter sled is going to make it much easier to produce high quality miter cuts for angles besides 45 degrees.  Not having to swivel the saw arm assures calibration remains unaffected.  Now I need to add a length stop system.  

John

Does anyone know the thread size & length of the bolt for DeWalt's belt clips? Trying to replace one but can't find any information on them.  I'll try to post a pic of what I'm talking about... 

[font="Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]I knew when I bought this machine that it was missing the power feed side housing cover (see Picture). The 1946 parts list shows it as HD-126 - the machine itself is, I believe, 1940. Appreciate any help you can offer. Best case is I find one that the owner wants to move along. 2nd best case I can find someone who is willing to loan me theirs as a pattern for casting.[/font]

[font="Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Thanks[/font]
[font="Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Rick[/font]

   

   

   
This should work!

Between the boat and the high-humidity of the Midwest, I have been battling some mildew showing up here and there. I am going to install a dehumidifier, but have a couple of questions.

1. I do not have a drain in the garage and I will need to run the discharge hose about 20-feet to drain to the outside. I assume I will need a dehumidifier with an internal pump to composite for the distance?

2. What is a good humidity % to shoot for with wood and projects being housed and built in the garage?

3. Any recommendations on the size of the dehumidifier, or stick with one rated for the square footage (approx 800).

Thank you!

I needed to mill a 1" roundover on some molding with a big old Makita plunge router dedicated to a R.T. station. One handy improvement it got years ago was replacing the aux. switch box with a 4" box extension. There's a switch on the front and a switch and a (split) duplex receptacle on the back. In addition to allowing me to use the vac without the router, it also lets me turn off the power to the router with 3 separate switches. To stay safe, I make a conscious effort to make sure all 3 are off before changing bits. I don't think I can accidently turn on all 3. What I can do is fight to get the right bit height when the plunge function is sticking. Then I turn on all 3 switches and it's loud! Much louder than normal. (Picture this) I jump back, drop to the floor, and crawl back and hit the main switch. When the noise stopped, I stood up to see a bunch of shinny sh** on the table. Seems the plunge function works well with a little vibration added. Note to self; engage the depth lock when you finally get the right bit height. I guess I can manage without template guides on this router.

I've got a couple of windows with some rot in the sash so I'm going to take a stab at making replacements. Looking for recommendations on wood species to use.

I am finishing up what I consider an odd sized table.  It is 5' x 5' out of 1 3/8" thick walnut.  Heavy top, so heavy that since I work by myself, I had to design a apparatus to move and flip the top over.

The schrinkulator calculates an 1" of movement if I put in the high value of 12% and the low value of 6".  I would think that would be the extremes or at least I hope so!

I was going to use figure eights to fasten the top to the apron but I am concern that figure eights would not handle that much possible movement.  Thoughts?

The base is 35" x 35" with 5" x 5" legs and 2" x 5" aprons.  I was only going to put the figure eights parallel to the grain.  Would it be a mistake not the attach the sides of the table to the base in some way?  Once again, there is a potential of a considerable amount of movement.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Toney

My cousin’s daughter used “Amish wood milk” to clean an antique oak coffee table.
The stuff turned the wood gray. A quick google says Wiid Milk is vegetable oil and vinegar. Another Google tells me distilled vinegar will stain oak gray.
I suspect the table did not have a substantial finish, allowing the vinegar to react with the wood.

So….. how to restore the typical antique look to the table?
I am thinking oxialic acid to reduce the gray, then golden oak stain and some sort of top coat. Arm-R-Seal?