I am finding conflicting information.
2 1/4 v 2 3/8 

Which is it. If it is 2 1/4 where can I buy one?

Thanks

Hi all:

I need to replace a power cord.  I've removed the 4 long bolts that pass thru the housing.  I think next step is to remove the collar on the shaft with no wheel in the pic.  The collars have large flats so easy to grab.  The nut on the side to be removed was right handed, but the collar may be on a different thread.

Q1: Should I expect the collar to be right or left handed?

Q2: Any advice on separating the shell?  It looks like a central cylinder with a hemisphere on each end, but it is tightly sealed.

       

Thanks
D

Hi,
I have a carpeted hardwood bedroom floor.  I want to strip off some or all of the carpet.  
Before I dive in to the project, I would like to know what to expect in the area of refinishing.
Can anyone suggest a reliable resource that I could look over to prepare myself for refinishing, etc.

Thanks,
Mark

Non VOC

I have a couple of Ridge Carbide saw blades i bought from Holbren some years ago. One of them is (over) due to be sharpened so i though I'd send it to them. I just found out they were bought out and moved to Kansas. Has anyone dealt with the "new" company....Ridge is my favorite saw blade right now and i would hate to see it go the way so many buyouts do (downhill, big time). I did wind up sending my beloved TS2000 to them to be sharpened; I hope I don't regret it.

Question: I am making a 32x60 dinette table for some newlyweds. The top is 1 in thick furniture grade white pine. Would you put breadboard edges on either end? Or would you leave it end grain showing with strong backs underneath?

Looking for some older Veritas O1 Chisels. I'm only looking for 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4". Let me know if you have any you would like to part with. I've got a Veritas Medium Shoulder plane that I would be willing to trade for our I can pay with $ as well. Thanks.

If you've been frustrated by the poor quality of today's hardwood plywood, you're not alone.  I got so disappointed with it that 15 years ago I decided to make my own for important projects.  As it turns out, it's not that hard, although I will say a good bandsaw and especially a drum sander make it a lot easier.  So here's a quick tour of how to add veneer to a substrate.  In this case, I'm using Baltic birch because the edges will be left unfinished, but I typically use Sande Ply or poplar plywood for lesser projects and BB only for high end work.  I really like MDF for non-structural work, too. 

Of course, the most important thing is the veneer.  I've shown how I slice veneer before, but here are a couple of photos from the recent dining room table job to show the process.  I'm using a 5 HP bandsaw now, but I used to slice veneer on my 1.5 HP 14" Delta, a lot slower of course, and only after careful setup, but it can be done, and I cut a lot of veneer with it.  Regardless of the saw, it needs to cut straight and parallel with the fence, and you need some sort of tall featherboard to hold the stock against the fence.  The one I use is a copy from John Lanciani's design.  It works great and has the added and too me critical feature of keeping my hands away from the blade.  



For most interior work I slice the veneer to about 0.010" and then drum sand it to 0.065", which usually takes about 3 passes/side.  That gives me slices that are dead smooth on both sides.  Some folks don't sand at all until after the veneer is glued down, but I prefer to have it flat and smooth so I can decide the best layout of how to use the veneer.  





OK, you have a bunch of veneer, now what?  In most cases you now have to seam them into a panel wide enough for the panel you want to veneer.  To do that you need to get the edges of the adjacent slices to fit together really, really well.  Surprisingly, if you joint the board really well before slicing the veneer, the slices often will fit together really well.  If not, I start by ganging them all together with a backer on the outboard side and run them over my jointer.  That usually does it, but sometimes I have to joint one or two of them separately, too.  With really cantankerous veneer, I have resorted to sanding the edges between cauls.  Whatever it takes, those joints have to be really good or you'll see it after it's glued down.  Shop sawn veneer handles more like lumber than commercially sliced veneer, one of the reasons I prefer to make my own.  It's also thicker and more durable than commercial veneer, and there are no crepe checks in it.  

For the simple project I'm working on now, I started with a 10/4 piece of hard maple left over from the dining table project and sliced 12 pieces from it, then ran it through the drum sander.  I seamed 5 of them to make a panel using small pieces of veneer tape top, middle, and bottom of each joint.  I used to add a piece of veneer tape the full length of the seam but found it's unnecessary if the veneer is nice and flat.  I just add a few pieces of blue tape and make sure to handle the panel very carefully.  Removing the veneer tape after the panel is pressed is a bit of a pain, and sometimes leaves a shadow which is hard to get rid of, so that's why I try to minimize how much I use.  But I still use it because it pulls the joints together when you iron it on.  And that's reason enough to use it the full length of a seam if you're having trouble getting a tight joint.  



The hard work is done now.  All that's left is to glue it to the substrate.  The panel I'm making is 32 x 32" so I made the veneer panels 32-1/4 x 32-1/4. It's hard to see in the photo but I used a slip match pattern for the panels.  I think it gives a more modern look than book matching, and this panel is for a mid century modern piece.    

My veneering setup is pretty simple.  I use a shop made vacuum bag; 30 mil vinyl and a Gast vacuum pump with no controls.  It just runs continuously for the 2 hours it takes for the glue to set up enough that I can remove the panel.  



Below the work is a 3/4" platen.  On top of that I place a piece of window screen, and sometimes a piece of 4 or 6 mil plastic sheeting on top of that, under the bottom layer of veneer.  Today I forgot the plastic.  It's unnecessary if you are careful applying the glue.  OK, the bottom sheet of veneer is placed good face down on the window screen/plastic.  The substrate is placed beside it.  Next I apply Titebond II with a plastic Bondo spreader into which I cut 1/8" deep slits about 1/8 apart using a pull saw.  This gives a nice spread with TB II and also epoxy.  I used to use Plastic Resin Glue and Unibond 800 but found that TB II works just as well for interior applications.  It's cheap and readily available, so that's what I now use. 



I pour some glue directly onto the plywood and spread it uniformly with the spreader.  You want a wet coat, but not a thick one.  And if you've never used veneer, never, under almost all circumstances, apply glue to the veneer.  It will curl up almost immediately.  I pull excess glue off the substrate onto a scrap board or plastic container.  



With the glue spread, I pick up the substrate and place it glue side down onto the veneer.  Then I spread glue on the top surface of the substate and slide the top sheet of veneer in place.  I make sure to check that the veneer on both the top and bottom overhang the substrate uniformly and then add blue tape in the four corners to hold everything in place.  Then I place another layer of window screen on top of the assembly and then slide all of it, including the lower platen, into the vacuum bag.  I have found no benefit of using a top platen as long as the veneer doesn't overhang the substrate more than 1/8" or so. I roll the open end of the bag around a piece of wood and turn on the pump.  It's large enough to pull a vacuum in just a few seconds, after which I clamp another piece wood to the first one to minimize leakage.  



I get about 20" Hg with this setup, which is less than what many claim, but I've never had a bonding issue even with curved work so clearly it's enough.  



After 2 hours or so the glue is setup enough to remove the piece from the vacuum bag.  When it comes out of the bag I remove the blue tape from both sides and then stand up the piece so that air can circulate uniformly on both sides to dry.  After 24 hours, it's ready to use.  You can see the slip matched pattern in this photo. 



That's it.  It's a simple process that is easily done by anyone who wants to use something better than commercial hardwood plywood for furniture and cabinet projects.  You might want to give it try. 

John

I need to anchor some base cabinets and shelves in drywall. The studs are metal, so I can’t screw into them. The anchors won’t be weight bearing. This may be obvious, but …. I put the cabinets in place, get them level, and the drill a hole through to the drywall. I then remove the cabinets, re-drill for the anchors. Put the cabinets back and screw them in.

Am I missing something? Is there an easier way to do it without moving the cabinets once they e been positioned and leveled?

Initially I thought u could get a mini split for about $10k. Then the cost crept up to $20k. But, for about $25-30k, I can get central air I stlled and not have those boxes hanging on my wall. The installer said the central air would cost a bit more to run, but probably just a few hundred $ a year.

What do I do?