Making a 12 ring, 360 segment diamond/ star pattern bowl from Black walnut, Maple and Granadillo

For Sale - Kreg K2000 kit complete with extra bit. Like new. $75 shipped conus.

         





Extras



Right angle clamp $20 plus postage. 2" clamp $10 plus postage.  Take both clamps $30 shipped.

   



Assorted screws $20 plus postage.

   



Cherry plugs $10 plus postage.

   



Take all the Extras $60 shipped.

Take the K2000 and all the Extras $135 shipped conus.


Prefer check or money order.



Thanks for shopping,



TAB

This is not a complaint or a question, just a bafflement.

I made a bed headboard out of very old wood, stuff in my shed, various species. Sanded it down to 160 and sprayed on Minwax Penetrating Seal. The reason a sprayer was used is that headboard design includes a fancy, carved upper front board from an upright piano. That panel has a very rough “patina” texture gained through a hundred years of age. 

I didn’t spray it on thickly, just a very light spray, over and over. Here’s the dilemma; the finish never dried!  (High humidity in northern Illinois.) Today, using mineral spirits, I rubbed all the sticky finish off.  Now I plan to paint it.

I want to make a wooden knife for the wife.  That means I have to figure out how to put a nice angle on the 'blade' section.  How would I taper from 1/8" thick at the top edge to the final thin angle at the cutting edge?    Not handle to tip, but the width of the blade.    It needs to be consistent and same on both sides of the blade.    AND...I have to leave enough without an angle for the layered handle.    From the front it's a steep triangle....Anyone think of a jig I could make to assure that both sides of the blade are the same angle?

I needed to rip a series of thin strips just over 1/4" thick. Using a push stick to feed the material wasn't an attractive option, and I came up with this push block. It rests on the rip fence, and the "blade" pivots up to allow the stock to pass under it and then drops down behind the material and provides a comfortable push block to feed the material past the sawblade and then can be slid back to await the next pass. I find it works so nicely that I use it even when ripping material wide enough that it could be fed without a push stick. A friend was in my shop recently and spotted it and  asked if it would be OK for him to take a picture of it. I told him "sure", but then offered to make one for him and he's since agreed that it's a lot more comfortable and safer than feeding material with a push stick. As it will allow material up to two inches high to be passed under the blade I can leave it on the fence where it's immediately available for use. And if the pivoting blade should get a bit too close to the sawblade and get trimmed, it's a simple matter to make a replacement.

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Wooden plow plane, see pics. Selling for a friend, don't know much about it. $100 net after shipping and Paypal fees OBO.

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Not mine,

Almost pooped myself when I saw this. Free Rikon Bandsaw

Bob10, this one looks to be in your penninsula region. I wish I had 1) the room, 2) the ok, 3) it weren't so danged hot today. I did send the link to a couple buddies who are HS shop teachers. I hope they get it.

Kevin

I was able to pick up this "vintage" morris chair from a neighbor who claimed the repair was out of their skill level. I have some thoughts about how best to make the repair, but I also wanted to see if I could determine it's style, vintage, and possible future worth to help determine the level of effort and how I repair the leg.

I've searched the internet ad nauseum to try to find a similar style but haven't found anything. A couple distinctive details on this particular chair I haven't seen online are 1) the seat and backrest are single removable pieces, i.e., the structure/frame and cushions are integral, not separate like most chairs; and 2) the elevation control is actually cut into the back legs vs having a metal hardware for the support rod to rest within. 

                       

A couple questions for the group: 

1) Does anyone know this particular style and/or age? I'm guessing it's either a department store version that was mass produced, or a one off homemade version. particularly with the dowel construction of the leg joints.
2) Based on a possibly unknown age, and the difficulty of replacing the front leg without taking the whole chair apart, I'm considering simply drilling through the dowel holes on the front leg, cutting off those dowels from the side piece and driving new dowels in once the leg is attached to the front board. Possibly plugging with a different wood as a design element, or trying to blend it in to be unseen. If I make it a design, I'd also mimic it on the other leg for symmetry. Thoughts?
3) Other advice on fixing the leg joint? I've already cleaned out the broken wood from the dowels.

Thanks
Kevin

With the chairs done, next on the agenda is an 8-seater dining table. One of the pleasures in being an amateur is that I get to enjoy the time between builds as much as the builds themselves. My question for all is "what do you do between builds, or in preparation for a new build?".

The table top is to be 68-70" long, 40" wide, and 1 1/4" thick (there will be a 1/4" bevel), in Rock Maple. The Rock Maple is to link with the chairs I built. The legs will be 3" cylinders in Jarrah, 30" high, with 3" Jarrah stretchers connecting. Think of this as a contemporary version of the existing 6-seater 250 year-old table we are replacing (which has 5" stretchers and 2 1/2" diameter legs) ...



But this post is not about design. That is for another time. This post is about prepping.

The Jarrah legs come in 3 1/2" posts, in around 80" lengths. They were cut down roughly, at this stage, with a chainsaw ...



There are 4 wide 10' long and 2" thick Rock Maple boards here. They will be cut down and re-sawn when ready to be used.



I spent most of the past weekend cleaning the workshop. It was covered in dust from the grinding, sanding, scraping, rasping and shaving that dominated my time over the past few months. The jointer-thickness/planer was cleaned, as was the slider, while the bandsaw was stripped, cleaned and a carbide Lenox Woodmaster CT 1" blade set up for resawing. All this wood is damned hard stuff. The dust extractor bins were emptied, and the ceiling filter cleaned.

There is some pleasure in making all good again, especially with a good coffee to sip, and great jazz to listen to on the workshop stereo.

While the machines are important, attention was given to the hand planes I will use. Especially the Veritas #7 Custom Jointer - as good as my Hammer A3-31 jointer is, all edges are finished with a hand plane for invisible joins.

Stripping down the #7, it was clear that it needed a good cleaning.



It's amazing to find this much cr@p under the frog ...



That warranted refreshing the underside of the chipbreaker. You can make out the silver line behind its leading edge ...



The blade was sharpened (30 degrees) and set up with the chipbreaker closed down - the last thing one wants when planing edges is any tearout ...



The chipbreaker received a clean microbevel of 75 degrees. The wooden angle behing provides a guide for freehanding this ...



Re-assembled and looking like new! Incidentally, the frog angle here is 40 degrees (that is about as low as one can go), hence how important it is to set the chipbreaker carefully as it would otherwise be a recipe for disaster.



Testing on a narrow board ...



The even, thin shavings let me know that it is good to go ...



I also took the time to make a side fence for the #7. I've never used one before on this plane, and was curious to find out how accurate (square) it could plane (it leaves a perfect edge). The metal bits come from a Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane ...



And then this was rinse and repeat for a #4 Veritas Custom Smoother ...



.. and a LN #3 ...



That was fun ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

The forum is incredibly slow. Is it like this generally? To get a little discussion/movement, here is an article I wrote a few years ago. It was brought to mind by a post on YouTube on the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane where the woodworker was demonstrating its use.

The standard knob for the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane is a tall affair. This is intended to be grasped when planing a rebate (picture on left), but some prefer to place a thumb on the plane body as the low centre of gravity affords more control (see picture on right) … 



I have taken this a step further and removed the knob altogether, as this provides less obstruction and a better position for the thumb …


Here is the plane rebating a panel minus the front knob …



Then I got to thinking that the thumb position could be made more comfortable and secure with a better knob. The design for one comes from a block plane …



















The main difference is that the new knob is set lower on the plane than the typical knob for a block plane …







Making one was essentially modifying a brass knob (purchased on Banggood) on my wood lathe. The brass shapes well with wood lathe chisels. 

Cut the base off the brass knob to lower it as much as possible. Lower is better.








Regards from Perth

Derek

October 2022.  http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeToo...eKnob.html