I built a 12 by 16 storage shed. It was planned to only be for storage.

Construction consisted of concrete piers 6” off ground, treated 2x10 I then decided to insulate and put treated ply on top. I walked it up an sealed it in. I used as storage for two years.

Inside perfectly dry

I wired and insulated walls and ceiling and finished inside with vinyl flooring and added mini split. I put a chest deep freeze in it and just storage.

Now I get water under deep freezer and it feels damp inside.

Any suggestions?

After two bicykle accidents and some hand injuries I finished my firt saw for 5 months.

Sash or Tenon Saw
350mm (about a food) long
80 mm (about 3 1/4 ") deep
11 TPI croscut

I was reliefed when I found the saw sawing straight and fast fresh from the file.

Cheers
Pedder





More pictures on the blog.

Cheers
Pedder

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/zip/d/s...70774.html


"This jointer is very heavy, works well, just needs the blade sharpened.

Model 37-220 6" Jointer, probably from 1975. We have the manual on pdf."

This is a question about hardwood flooring in a large master bath.  

We have a 40-year old colonial with a large master suite.  I am finally redoing the bathroom.  Originally it had a useless large whirlpool tub and a small 30x36 shower.  I have reconfigured it to a larger 78x48 shower and no tub.  (I added a nice tub to the guest bath remodel a couple years ago, so we see a tub in the master as unneeded and intrusive in what will be a very nice "sanctuary" area.)

Hopefully my sketchup model (jpg attached) is helpful.  See notes and status below.

So, while hardwood floors are not recommended for bathrooms in any literature I have read, I believe this is a much lower risk bathroom for hardwood.  There is almost no moisture from the shower as the ceilling is so high and the room so large it is dissipated quickly.  The only real sources for standing water or anything like that are the shower door and the vanity area.  

We have considered tile, vinyl, carpet (the room was carpeted when we bought it), and combinations thereof.  Definte no on vinyl no matter how good the simulation of wood is.  No on carpet except perhaps in the closets.  Tile in the toilet room is likely and perhaps around the edge of the shower as shown, but not definte for either spot.  

In particular we have looked at so-called waterproof hardwood, but my supervisor does not like any of the finishes.  She is looking for something in the light gray area and that is hard to find.  Also, I don't like most of the samples we have seen as they are not substantial enough IMHO. A few are very nice, but color selection is limited and not acceptable so far.  

To me, installing an unfinished high-end maple or white pine floor with a suitable stain, and then sealing the whole surface with a good quality water poly in 2-4 coats would be a very reasonable hedge against water damage.  I also much prefer a 3/4" wood floor (over 3/4" plywood subfloor).  We can control the whole process and find the best stain, or even a dye perhaps.  (Making sample boards is something I do routinely.)

Certainly nothing is truly waterproof but I am wondering what this community thinks about this idea?  Please be candid.  Are there any showstoppers in your mind(s)?  What else might you suggest?  Have any of you used hardwood in your bath or kitchen and how has it held up?  

Thank you for your input as always.

-------------

A couple of notes on the diagram:  the shower will be square and not angled as shown.  The old tub took up 72x72 corner in lower left by corner windows.  The room has a 12' cathedral ceiling peaking at walk-in closet wall containing door on lower right.  In other words, that wall is 12' high and the exterior wall un the foreground with the window is 8' high.  Ceiling fan to be added in center of large "sanctuary" space opposite vanities.

Current project status - all permits passed for enclosure.  I have hung the sheetrock, mudded, taped, and primed walls.  Ceiling painted.  Using Schluter system for shower.

Attached Files

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I recently purchased an 8X20 shipping container and I want to cut openings for a door and three or four windows. I do not have a cutting torch (wouldn't know how to use it anyway). I don't know what gauge the steel is on the container. Is it possible to cut those openings with an angle grinder and an appropriate cutting disc?
Thanks much.

I have been a lurker on this forum for a long time, and really enjoy reading the Q&A, seeing pics of other shops and beautiful projects. In the spirit of Derek's post a few weeks back about the lessening of activity, I thought it would be good to share my latest project with you all.  Lately, I have been more interested in adding technical/technology into projects. Some simple, like an led light strip in the armrest of a gaming table. Others a bit more complex, like a recent door project. 

This client has an early 1900's bungalow that has been very well looked after. The front door situation, however, was behind the times. It had two side windows, not glass, but plexiglass, so no insulation whatsoever. As we are in Houston, this is not ideal. The door was a solid painted rectangle. For the homeowner, way too boring.

After some consultation, he decided on a modern look with 5 horizontal windows evenly spaced on the door. He opted to go with black paint outside, and white inside to match the interior trim. I prefer to build exterior doors with mahogany to deal with the fairly extreme heat and humidity we have here, so painting over it was a little heartbreaking, but we know the beauty that lies underneath.

The glass has a film applied that switches from transparent to opaque using a remote. This could also be wired to a smart switch to set it on a schedule, but he wanted to do it manually. There are 5 separate panels for the door glass, all wired together through a channel on the hinge side with the wires concealed with trim. The wiring passes through a hinge, into the framing, and connects with the side window panels to make it all switchable with the remote.

Below is a link to a little video of the end result. Happy to dig into the build details if anyone out there is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/yZW2PqZv1Lg

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/o...97700.html


Awesome deal for the restorer!
Must take both!

I have a vintage Delta 14” bandsaw in parts nearly complete except for the motor I believe.

6 inch vintage Delta jointer with no motor comes with a nice old stand was working fine.

moving cannot take this with me again!!

This is going to a woodworker machinist person. I hope not a junk scrapper, please.
If you want this, let me know what a jointer or does just so I know it’s not going to the metal junk pile!

I'm finally getting around to trying to fix a table top that had water damage (my bride put some jugs of water on top to prep before a hurricane, and they leaked).

Question is, has anyone put a wiping cut (50-50 oilbased poly and MS) over a nitro finish?  I'm thinking of evening out the flaked portions of the  nitro with acetone, and then hiting it with 400 grit (or OOOO steel wool) to rough it up, then wiping on the cut poly.  Any advice is welcome.

You'll have to watch the the whole thing to see how Lego is used.  A smaller operation than I would have thought.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6BAXmR2REg

Making a 22.5 x 12.5in serving tray out of American Smoke Tree burl and Alumilite Deep pour resin.