Project is completed...now what.   Shop needs a good, thorough straightening up...tools to sharpen, tools to put away....and find out what is buried under the mess..

Maybe a week's worth of work?  

Meantime?    Will be watching/reading other people's Build Threads.....Get busy..

My new to me house front door and side lights need to be refinished. The bottom of door and side lights show considerable weathering.

I want to refinish without stripping. Any suggestions on a clear coat?

I live in central Louisiana, we see plenty of heat and humidity and yes, rain!

Greg

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resawed some 4/4 maple to use making drawers.  Some of the drawers are taller than the maple was wide so I will be gluing up to complete the job.  As the material is a nominal 3/8" I'll have some glue-up to do. Broke out the PC biscuit joiner, thinking I would use the small biscuits that use the 2" blade.  The blade wasn't in the case.  WTH, I'll just order a new one, can't be more than $8-10.  Wrong, OEM blade is $95.  The whole biscuit joining machine is $250. 

Started looking in all the places I'd be if I were a joiner blade.  Several drawers later, several toolboxes later, I finally found the missing blade on a pullout shelf of loose tools in a cabinet.  I was getting worried as there isn't a flat surface in my shop that isn't stacked with "stuff".  I just found $100.  Winner Winner. Chicken dinner.

I can't believe PC thinks $95 is a reasonable price for a blade in a $250 tool.  Its like building a car from scratch using parts from the dealer's parts counter.  If you have a 577 joiner, take the spare blade, put it in a safe deposit box and list it in your will.

I tore apart a non-functioning LG dehumidifier and kept the fan motor in hopes it might be adaptable to another unit that works fine except for the fan, which I cannot find a replacement for.  Make sense?  Anyway, the fan motor has 3 wires, red, yellow, and black, yellow and red on one side of the coil and black on the other.  All have continuity to the others.  

I'm wondering if one of the wires goes to a capacitor, which I foolishly didn't think about when I tore it apart and then disposed of.  Does anyone have insight into how these motors need to be wired?  The fan in the other dehumidifier is a simple 2 wire plus ground that even I can understand.  Thanks in advance.

Now that I think about it, the dehumidifier had a high/low feature so maybe it's a two-speed fan.  

John

I got this vise at an estate sale. I’m not even sure if it’s for woodworking but it’s made out of wood and looks like a leg vise.
I don’t have a leg vise and was thinking about getting one so was happy to get it.

There’s a spring on the backside that I thought would help with quickly adjusting the bottom rail. It wasn’t until I fit it to my bench that I realized the spring isn’t attached to anything. Even if it was attached it doesn’t look like it would operate properly. In the relaxed position it is pulling UP on the botttom rail with teeth. When stepping on the footpad it would press DOWN on that rail, which doesn’t do anything useful.

So does this look familiar to anyone. Is it a different type of vise? Were springs a common add-on to help with the bottom adjustment rail? Are there pieces missing? How is this supposed to work‽

Thank you

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Hi, refinishing a dining table second time. I refinished it once before and when I was stripping the original finish I noticed a sticky residue beneath finish which was not removed by the stripper. I later realized it was likely the manufacturers blotch control (subsequently removed by sanding before restaining) because when I tried to dye stain the bare wood with Transtint it blotched like crazy. I then used Charled Neil blotch control and that worked fairly well. 

So I currently had some 5 year old Charles Neil blotch control and it did not seem to go on smoothly - like it wanted to dry very fast. I went ahead with transtint stain (water) anyhow but the results are pretty bad. I think the product was too old. So Charles Neil is no longer with us and his product is not available. 

I saw some extensive testing by the Wood Whisperer on a DIY formula of glue and water based finish which seems to outperform all other methods. 

Just wondering if anyone has tried this. This table is a really nice vintage design but no idea why they would use a severely blotch prone wood. 
Also part of the problem is that I dont have any test scrap in the same species and I'm unable to identify the species. 

I could post a picture (currently stained but could sand it off), its a veneer and the unique property of this wood (for me) is that the grain is jet black and looks like oak grain. Also the wood color is very light, I would say blonde so staining is a must but the deep color change is a challenge. I have samples of several domestic hardwoods but none have black grain. In any case I could use one of the table leaves as a test board. 

Luckily the veneer is really thick on these vintage tables, about 1/8". Whenever I go to someone's house for dinner with a modern table the veneer is always shot - what a waste.

Thanks for any tips.

P.S. My finishing schedule was/is sand to 220, apply blotch control as directed, apply transtint in water (cannot use solvent based dye with the blotch control) and topcoat with NC lacquer.

Brand New in the box HK55 tracksaw. I got a special deal and bought an extra for a friend but he doesn't need it. Have receipt for proof of purchase, this is eligible for full warranty and recently purchased ~1 month ago.

Does NOT come with a track. This works with the any regular festool/Makita/Powertec track OR the special FSK tracks that allow keep the track attached to the saw. Variable depth of cut, but NOT a plunge cut saw. Comes with Systainer, new blade, cord, and manuals.

You can either have the one photographed or the one sealed in the original shipping container box, up to you. Both have never even been plugged in.

Retails for $499 without the track. $659 with a track. Rarely goes on sale, and then only to $449. Selling for $400 OBO.

Prefer local pickup in Seattle area. Could work out shipping with a Woodnetter, but haven't priced it out to know if it's worth doing. I'm out of town this week, but could ship next weekend.
 
   

   

Whiteside (6) and Amana (2) router bits for sale. Please see the first pix for details on bits.  There is over $300 worth of bits at retail.  Four are new.  Pick your favorites plus shipping or take the whole group for $65.  Payment by PayPal, check, or money order.  First "I'll take it" gets it.  Bits are listed and grouped in picture order.

Thanks for shopping.

Tom


   

   

   

   

   

   

I am thinking about getting a small drum sander for my basement shop - something like a 16-32 or 19-38.  I am not tied to any brand.  Any suggestions would be very helpful.  Thanks as always...FPT.

This 12in by 3in bowl features the Michigan State University spartan cut from Black Walnut inlayed in the bottom of a piece of Spalted Maple using the FoxAlien 4040 XE-PRO. 3 segmented maple rings with a Black Walnut rim make up the sides. The bowl is finished with Acrylic Enamel and polished with Ack's Woodpaste.