This piece Is made from hard Maple first turned hollow on the lathe it finished at 8" x 18" then the pattern was hand drawn and hand carved. It was then colored with Acrylic Paint, Alcohol Inks and pyrography for texture, the final finish is satin lacquer.

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Once upon a time there was a company that offered a discount on Whiteside Router Bits to Woodnet members.  Don't know if they still do and I forgot the company name.  a little help please.  I think they also carried a line of powdered analine dyes but it might be another company I forgot.

I've always used Famowood in the little 6 oz cans.  I liked it because it dried quickly, didn't shrink, and was easy to sand. What I didn't like was how it hardened in the can as the acetone evaporated.  Aceton content may be why its a rarity and now its $12 for six oz.  What's a good substitute?  I don't like the grease pencils and not really fond of the oil-based putties.  I've got a few nail 'shiners' I need to fix and some gaps between joints I want to erase.  I want to be able to stain with water-base.

Just wondering if anyone has any good and less expensive alternates to Hardie plank.  I would start with a detached building that is 14' of block plus roof trusses and is 40' x 50'.  The quote I got for Hardie was about $28K and I figured there may be other alternates out there that are similar in style but less expensive.  Really didn't want wood or stucco and have vinyl now.  I assume there are some wood furring strips already attached to the block for attaching the vinyl.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/d...24907.html

oss HAS BEEN DELIVERED

Looking to get a bench top oscillating spindle sander a ride from Winston Salem, NC to Hampton Va. Will easily fit in a SUV. Fairly light weight. Sander can be disassembled from the shop built stand. Let me know if this fits your travel plans.

Thanks
Rick

I have had a lock miter router bit in a drawer for years and never used it.

Yesterday I had a box project that I decided to try it on.

The box would require the locking miter bit to cut end grain as the box is only 2.75 inches deep and about 12.75 inches long and just over 6 5/8 front to back.

I tried the bit on some scrap and it seems that holding a piece that’s 12.75 tall and 2.75 wide is going to be problematic when running the piece upright against the fence.
I couldn’t get it to feed smoothly.

Most of the videos I’ve seen on lock miter bits shows them cutting with the grain.

Is there some trick to getting these lock miter bits to cut end grain well, or am I just trying to use it wrong?

Thanks in advance
Duke

I have an exterior light that works based off of a light sensor (on at night, off during the day).  But recently I noticed that the light is on all the time.  My first thought was maybe the lens cover was just so dirty that it always thought it was dark, but after cleaning it that doesn't seem to be the case.  Just based on what the thing looks like, I think I know what part I need to replace it (but will verify once I take off the cover).  What I'm not sure of is what I need be be aware of/how I seal a plate that is outside (I've changed switches and outlets inside, but never outside). 

Based on the photos it appears the builder put something around the plate to keep water out, and it is obviously in pretty poor shape at this point.  What should I be using?  And is there anything else I need to be aware of?  I would imagine that any connections/wire nuts in the box you want higher in the box in case water leaks into it, then at least the water would be below the wires/connections.  Anything else?

   
   

Making a 9 x 16 inch charcuterie board from a black walnut cap left over from milling and Alumilite Deep pour resin.

WTB

Mortise and Tenon Mag. Issues 12-17.

Thanks, 

PM here or e-mail cpa@taxmancpa.com