Just to learn how, I decided to try threading on my 3 axis CNC. VCarve Pro has a toolpath for doing that, so why not? First, however, you need to have a threading bit. I bought this one:




It wasn't clear at first how to mill the threads so that the tip diameter of one thread would mesh with the root diameter of the other, allowing some slop factor. I think that would work had I milled the threads to give a land on them, like an acme thread, but I made V-shaped threads and for that to mesh I had to make the male thread one thread depth larger before cutting the thread. I'm going to cut some threads with lands on them to see if the logic is more straight forward. In any case, I was successful and the threads mate very smoothly.



The box is about 4" OD, with a UTS 1" thread I had to make the lid as two pieces, otherwise the threading bit won't cut deep enough. The thread wasn't cut quite completely on the threaded section, so it wouldn't fit down tight to the base, so I added the O-ring to take up the slack. Still learning.






Normally, the lid has a female thread and fits over the male thread of the box. To do that, however, a back cut needs to be made below the thread for clearance, again because the shape of the tool doesn't allow it thread to the bottom of the recess. I managed to figure that out, too, but I need a narrow T-shaped bit before making more.

And that kept my brain engaged for a couple of days.

John

I picked up a couple woodworking vices at an estate sale this summer.  Finally getting around to installing them.  Previously I've used 3/4" "pine" to line the jaws.  Do you use something like this or something harder, and is 3/4" a good thickness?  By the way, my vice does occasionally get use for things that aren't woodworking.

Got any thoughts?

I didn't do this one as a buildalong, but thought I'd share the finished project.

The knife is a nice little skinner.  Stainless Guard, with a Copper accent I shaped from a BarStock piece of copper.  The pins in the Highly Figured walnut scales are from round stock Nickel Silver.  I spent hours laying out and tooling the spine on this knife and tried a new technique for filling in the tooling.  I bought some metallic tint which I used on the epoxy I used on the scales and the copper accent and filled in the tooling accents on the spine then sanded it all smooth.  I sanded the scales to 1500 grit and they got seven coats of beeswax, after treatment with Watco Golden Oak Oil finish.  That Golden Oak really made the grain in the walnut pop.  First a look at the spine's details.


   


Then a peek at the grain pattern in the belly of the beast.


   


I made a sheath for practice as I am trying to learn to use my Cowboy 3200 sewing machine.  This thing can sew harness thickness leather.  Miss T can knock stuff out on it left and right, but she is a quilter and has a half dozen high end machines in her hobby shop... all top quality.  She answers my questions and shows me how to do "things" on my machine, bought to sew belts and holsters.  


I'm getting there.  This was tooled, dyed, antiqued, and waxed.  Came out pretty good for a leather rookie.



   


The knife itself?  Yup, Miss T said it's looking good, so I'm good.



   


Like many of us, I look at the completed projects and see the small issues.  I'm anal, a bit of a perfectionist.  But... it makes me strive to improve on the next project.  I guess that's not a bad thing, although it means I can't be satisfied in my work. LOL.

SOLD:These tool catalog reprints were published by the Midwest Tool Collectors Association. These are better than the originals: they are high quality reprints (and no moldy old book smells!). A treasure trove of old hand tool information with tons of pictures and information. This is one lot of 10 different catalogs. Includes catalogs for:

Sargent
Peck Stow and Wilcox
Stanley
E.C. Atkins
James Swan
Millers Falls
Otto Bergmann
and others

$50 including shipping. SOLD

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Hi there.  I'm in need of a miniature router plane, and was wondering which to get.  The Veritas looks good pricewise.  Any recommendations out there?
Tim

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/c...01929.html

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/c...02292.html

Rockwell Unidrill

Photos are from prior seller. I have removed the rust and cleaned up the drill and tested it to be working in good condition.

Wooden Planes in 19th Century America   by Kenneth Roberts   Volume II   Hardback with dust jacket  1983 edition.  Like new.  $40.00 plus shipping from 15559.  Accept paypal (preferred) check or money order.

     

[font="Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]I'm working on a small box and wanted to use a piece of resawn lumber to make a book matched panel for the lid. However, the stock needs to be under 1/4" thick. [/font]

I'm having a hard time holding it on the work bench. Specifically when I need to work across the grain to get it down to the proper thickness.

I imagine that I could geta piece of plywood and drive some brass flat head screws into the top and use them as planing stops. But other than that, I'm sort of stumped.

what's a good strategy for working with thin stock? I need to be able to hold it so I can traverse the grain with a jack plane so I can get it down in thickness pasts the marks left by resawing.

FS:  9" Woodcarvers Screw never used.  Sells for $90 currently at TFWW.   Selling for $50.00 plus shipping.  Payment by PayPal (preferred), check, or money order.  First "I'll take it" gets it.