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Epoxy clean up |
Posted by: plharrison - 11-27-2024, 10:40 AM - Forum: Woodworking
- Replies (2)
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Just finishing up my first epoxy river table. Not sure if I ever want to do another one! My question is how to final clean the top to prepare for the final finish of Rubio Monocoat. Obviously the "river" is down the center with walnut on the sides. I don't want to risk just wiping with water to avoid raising the grain of the adjacent wood. What should I use?
Thanks!
Paul
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Motor Bearing Removal on a Dewalt MBF |
Posted by: jteneyck - 11-26-2024, 02:47 PM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools
- Replies (2)
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My newly acquired MBF runs very quietly and smoothly, but when I turn it off it emits a strange sound. After 65 years it would be no surprise if one or both of the bearings needed to be replaced. I want to give my friend a saw that he won't have to do any special maintenance on for a long time, so I decided to change them. I've ordered them and hopefully they will arrive soon. In the meantime, I decided to go ahead and tackle the job of disassembling the motor and pulling the bearings.
I did this job on my GWI at least 20 years ago; long enough that I had forgotten the whole process, but not so long that I had forgotten that it was not fun. Hopefully, older and wiser would tip the scales in my favor this time. I started by cutting the power cord between the motor and arm so I could take it down to my shop to work on. Smart move based on what followed. I watched a YouTube video and read a review about getting the motor apart. Simple, remove the four long bolts that hold the end bells to the main body, tap the front bell loose, and the armature either magically comes out of the back bell (YouTube video doesn't show how he did it) or easily pulls out (written description). Not mine. I got the front bell part way off by tapping the side openings with a rubber mallet, but I had to heat it with a heat gun to get it off the rest of the way. The same strategy did not work for getting the bearing out of the back bell. So I made a little puller from a block of wood and some 3/8" rod, and it worked great.
![[Image: AP1GczOxI4Fq1KD9m8SAECcaCn_jvnYfZUAG4Bv2...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOxI4Fq1KD9m8SAECcaCn_jvnYfZUAG4Bv2-Ina07clebzISDFBNM_Y_Mpr_R8udxZhurW_moMxo4SysbZVoC9N0Ja_icdUNOC_4LkYXqRN7nbQWedQYJEMB4n6Zm7UlFIUi6pf81-CyfM9KvLKS0AYKg=w1565-h880-s-no?authuser=1)
![[Image: AP1GczNFqzVerUIuWmvxjwsX3XK1b-dzc7JCHFjz...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNFqzVerUIuWmvxjwsX3XK1b-dzc7JCHFjzC1YK7l62TacIeYOplhs7BE8_-L7b_OyhRFF8JigDAvckl0poxYjf-WcoMIGMYJ_nKG5L0BM8ocqmvBwL6LUFRhrbMRXMfmarp7G0OlLLkElnOYOZCweT3A=w1565-h880-s-no?authuser=1)
OK, now for the bearings. There's a spring clip in front of the front bearing, so I removed that. The I installed a bearing puller against the back of the fan, with the bearing puller's flat face against the fan and snugged up tight to the flange. The fan is made of aluminum, so you don't want to apply force very far from the arbor or you risk bending or breaking it. Using a typical gear puller would be a really bad idea. Why do you have to pull the fan and bearing together? Because there's not enough room behind the bearing to get a gear puller on it, as you can see in the photo above.
![[Image: AP1GczP6TkoHMBm2cFLtWc4-lxthnVpCQ9Nvb-1f...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP6TkoHMBm2cFLtWc4-lxthnVpCQ9Nvb-1fGUYcSJ8ZTa9G3uzTRcTX8YYJqjt5LYrR-y99aW-6KYvJdPKAwg-Jqy3urPGTeRcPxo6H-YGrqxy1bcFooDgTohDG7FT7c4zej7xG-nsAoB03C4Tn2mkwoQ=w495-h880-s-no?authuser=1)
It didn't take a lot of force to get the fan and bearing off.
![[Image: AP1GczNUrea3XQ41-dn0wzJZnXlHdQTehCSgcCgQ...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNUrea3XQ41-dn0wzJZnXlHdQTehCSgcCgQAWoBScbT-DwNAnlOGBlp-y-GvsThrb9D16ZFvLB3TlxrOHvcIssF4UuxOVzVPkdUDanftc0FnPmP_Aat_az6AdvU6VFlRQahS1cDOAhJI1HPQXFC8n_FGQ=w495-h880-s-no?authuser=1)
OK, now for the rear bearing. Since there's nothing behind it was easy to install the bearing puller. But this bearing was well bonded to the shaft. It gave a resounding pop when it finally let loose. And as you can see, the OD of the press screw is larger than the ID of the bearing. I solved that problem by repeatedly stacking #6 nuts under the screw as I pressed the bearing out.
![[Image: AP1GczOrjwMcM-RxuwpsA5ZsPxamqIOHp_fLcRkz...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOrjwMcM-RxuwpsA5ZsPxamqIOHp_fLcRkzujUVQCzwLErfvRCtmVRZJ82mUhjV_Zo9bKup-f7IZ7nNir6VjR34JNPSFLREtTI_R8TBedXC9P4PxqAXeAJyQFioOzPcmZUo2uE0hRBVVVVgx9TAGqd1-Q=w1565-h880-s-no?authuser=1)
![[Image: AP1GczPeFLZCnCUR_ZJHQkFlyB92MDN2lS58I9ie...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPeFLZCnCUR_ZJHQkFlyB92MDN2lS58I9ieNgKNDZjjrf36DichvhV1AvrohCrv8m0O7xqXsYCctUrp2ziVw5sCSUcgRPGNpVWBxR8RjhAZp1OdGqY004OHDXd2eSw5r0H2_HyiEOzx-XixWH4Usfp3iQ=w1565-h880-s-no?authuser=1)
With that done, I blew 65 years of dust out of the motor windings. Everything looks really good and ready to rebuild. I'll add that part of the story after the bearings arrive.
Oh, you might wonder if the bearings were bad. The front bearing seems absolutely fine to me, but the rear one definitely feels gritty when you rotate it, so I'm assuming that one was the source of the noise. And even though the front bearing looked good, as long as I have it apart, I might better replace it, too.
John
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Smoke Tree and resin vase |
Posted by: mtrainer90 - 11-26-2024, 11:16 AM - Forum: Woodturning
- Replies (1)
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American Smoke Tree and Alumilite: Deep pour resin with Black Diamond Pigments: Imperial Purple Haze and Black Onyx. Finished with Mylands Sanding Sealer, Ack's Woodpaste & Polish before being coated with Acrylic enamel. The vase is 8in tall and 8in at its widest with a 3.5in opening.
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Tablesaw sliding table DRO? |
Posted by: JDuke - 11-25-2024, 01:34 PM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools
- No Replies
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I have the Wiley DRO on my Sawstop fence and really like it.
I’m thinking it would be nice to have a DRO on the sliding table fence or similar on my incra miter fence.
I know I would have to calibrate it every time I set it up, but with a set of digital calipers that’s not a problem.
I’m just wondering if anyone has tried this and how they made it work.
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