sawnuts said:

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I have a person who claims he had this wood shipped from Papua New Guinea (South Pacific) when he worked there as a missionary. I have no reason to doubt him.
The Narra he called rosewood and the other he called Toona?

I do not these are really mahogany or Rosewood but still they look intriguing.

I can get the mahogany for $5 a bd ft and the rosewood for $8 or $9. I have yet to figure out if he has wide boards available.

They seem to work well and I am wondering if anyone has experience with these woods and if the price seems fair. I use hand tools and these seem to plan up rather nicely.

Thanks
Mark

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Issue 178 from 2008 has one. Google shows a pdf link and also a link to buy the TV episode with plans and photos.

A case/stand combination. PDF found here

While anything is possible, it's probably just that you need to push harder. That's a big breaker, with an offset (and small, relatively speaking) handle, with a big spring inside, so it will take a lot to get it over center.

Even if the breaker is bad, you shouldn't need a new panel, though a new panel with main breaker may actually be cheaper to buy than just the breaker, and the QO series is about the most expensive of the snap-in type panels.

By the way, you are upsizing the conductors to the 15A breaker before swapping in a 20A, aren't you? If they aren't already 12 gauge copper, for the entire circuit, of course.

It sure does look like lignum. Weight is the final clue. If this mallet is heavier than hard maple, then it probably is LV. Good score.

Hard to tell, but citrus woods do spalt so she could be right. Still, what does it matter? I cannot even see it this is cookie - cross section - or what kind of cut. Is it dry? What does she mean by stabilizing the edge? Keeping the bark on?

I would get it air dry before applying any finish.

I don't remember clearly, but following the manual works: I think it's eccentric so turning it forces the gears to mesh more deeply.

Cool! Doesn''t look like half a day would be enough time.

I don't think there's a standard angle but your 22.5° doesn't sound appropriate. Figure out how wide the base of the cross buck needs to be (maybe 4" or 6" less that the width of the top) and the height to the underside of the top and work out the angles from that.

If you want help figuring the angles, drop me a PM with those numbers and I'll help you out.

Chemically tempered glass would do the trick if you can find a company who makes custom sizes. It's the stuff you see used in glass stair ways and similar applications. And there's always Lexan

John