1) would have to look that one up. Don't remember. Are you wanting to bottom feed the panel. If you are using aluminum it's way easier than wrestling the bends in the wire to top feed it.

2) never seen a low height requirement. Many of the commercial panels I put in will have the bottom of the can 8" to 10" off the floor to keep the top of the panel under the ceiling height.


I am liking the GE panels for home and shop. Copper buss, neutral bars on both sides or can be split to be a neutral and ground bar. They use a thick breaker not the thin ones. Very similar breaker to other brands. 200 amp panel kit can be had for around $100 with 20 or so breakers.

I haven't used the Q much as we use siemens and eaton for commercial. I prefer the siemens as the panel kits for some of the eatons are a pita.
Honestly all the panels will work fine and last a long time. Just different quirks to all of them.


You will be running 4 wires and a ground from the panel to a ground rod. But you already knew that since you know you don't need a bonded panel. Some panels only have a neutral bar and you have to buy your own ground bar. Bonding is done with a goofy screw that comes with the panel. I tossed a bunch out of my tool box cause we never bond panels as they are fed off a 800 amp disconnect outside. (Heavy person too 4 or 5 man job to mount or skytrack)

New Foreman? I need a new drill for my old DB55 pneumatic and they discontinued it and have no stock now that the new Foreman is out.

I do really like Kreg though. I have a TON of their pocket screws.

Delta- 15-7/8" x 15-3/4"

I would think you could just drill the fence rail to match the mounting holes of you table, if the fence kit didn't match up already. I have a kreg fence kit on mine and I believe it had multiple holes to match it to existing table.

Bob

In my area, they are made from PT pine.
YMMV.

Turning club tonight and the challenge was to bring something with a cover. The first two shots were from last night and fairly early in the turning. I took the picture just in case something happened...well I probably jinxed myself. I was 99% done, everything was done including applying the finish except for making the base and you can see I didn't have much left to do of that. My last step was taping it to the bowl plate and removing the tail stock for access. Where I %^&*ed up was not turning the speed down. I pulled the TS out of the way and everything was good, for about .02 seconds and while I was lowering the TS to the ground the lathe started vibrating wildly and I could hear the tape flapping. I got the lathe turned off and started searching for the shrapnel .
I'm pretty bummed out I didn't think to turn the speed down.

Bob

I've had similar results with the same cutter. Although my delta probably spins a little faster and I probably turned it up a bit with the VFD. Did you slow your feed at all?

Whitewash was always just lime and water. I don't think you want to use that.

If you Google "whitewash recipes" they list ones for various applications.

By the way, traditional white wash was used in until the early 1900s to paint roofs on factories in the summer. It kept the roof much cooler and it washed away by the next year so that it would not create issues with re-coating the roof.

How'd you turn that cutting board flat on the lathe?



Nice work!

Great job! I liked the article as well.

I took a chair class at Roy's.

I had a great time.

Roy is energetic and fun to be around.

I'd like to take the bench class, but my schedule has been full lately.

Thanks for posting the pics.