For the current model? That stinks. I still have my tp1300 but I don't use it much cause knives are pricey and not readily available anymore. Been a good planer thouh.

Arlin

I'm not familiar with that specific product, but I feel sure that it will be as durable as any clear coat you could put over it. I suggest that another coat of clear varnish like polyurethane would not accomplish more than another coat of the same paint.

I may be mistaken but that's my two cents.

All the best

Doug

Hammers.......Third from the left is a saddle-maker's hammer..It has a hollow handle containing six split needles for stitching saddles and harnesses. The ball peen hammer on the left is inscribed "from George to Elisa, Class of 1903"...... it's apparently shop made, and the machine work is beautiful...

Stain and finish as you do everywhere else. I never spent as much time sanding the underside/inside as I did the parts that show, but for sure finish it.

I stock up on driver bits when they are on sale. Often dewalt ones which aren't bad. The worst I have bought were ryobi and the seccond worst have been the pricey milwaukee ones they are especially disappointing regular or impact versions. I have kobalt ones from lowes and they are towards the lower end.


The best out there imo are apex bits. They are aircraft tools and been around a long time and their bits fit the screws very well. As for the quick change part most are all the same.


FYI ace hardware has some of their dewalt driver bits and drill bits for 9.99 this weekend including the 90* driver. I picked up a couple of the 90* units as they are over twice that price at depot. I rarely buy anything from ace but every so often there is something in their flier that's a good deal.

Ah Derek, you outdid yourself! I like the addition of the nylon guide screws and will apply that to my miter boxes. Everything on the box and saw is simply great, but I do have to add one bit of criticism, and that is this: Please clock the split nuts and the project will go from great to perfect!

Those look like European Hinges. Their are many manufactures, styles and offsets. Lowes and Home Depot sell some inexpensive ones.

Great work. That top one is extra funky.

I think you just answered your own question. If your shed site is downhill of drainage, putting it on a wood skid is asking for trouble-----if the ground doesn't shift, the wood will eventually rot. Besides, if you plan on storing anything liquid, like paint, or gas powered garden tools---hence oil and gas, a wooden floor is a very bad idea, as it will absorb all that stuff and look like a mess---if not a fire hazard.

I wouldn't hesitate doing a concrete slab and if water could be a problem, you could always lay in a length of french drain between the hill and the slab, parallel to the flow.

Digging down and installing forms is a snap. If the site is close enough a concrete truck with a chute extension could reach it----you're lucky---otherwise, a couple of friends with wheelbarrows helping you for a couple of hours of good cardio-vascular exercise would do the trick. I also installed "J" bolts (locations marked on the forms) so it was pretty easy to set your sill plate. As my slab sat slightly above grade, after I remove the forms, it was very easy to form for a ramp----small enough to use bags of readi-mix.

Where ya been, Fr. Peter. Good to have you back!