Grab a sharp scratch awl and use the tip to contact the broken screw out by the threads. Try to back out the screw. If the threads are not deformed, it should come out. If that doesn't work, do the same thing with a sharp center punch and a small hammer to tap it counterclockwise.

Well, good prices mean different things to different folks. Anyway, Frank Miller lumber in Union City IN (a little WNW of Dayton, maybe 35 miles or so)) has it in S&B for $5.05 $3.37), #1 common for $3.45 ($2.30). The paranthetical price is if you are set up as a business there....which amounts to telling them you're a business and the set up up in their system. The first price is the off the rack price to anyone walking in. If you have a friend or someone that's already a business, you 're ready to go.

I have not, but most of the waterborne finishes can be sprayed with the proper thinning. I wouldn't thin it more than the manufacturer allows, you might screw up their chemistry.

Also a good price on compact router kit ($135). Gets good reviews.

Amazon

I wish! Loveland is a great town...

RonL said:

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I have cut dovetail with a Japanese saw before but I am taking a class in a month and would like to use a western style saw. Probably has to do with the romance of it. Anyway I have pretty much decided on buying a Lie Nielson saw, but has anyone got any ideas on straight or tapered? I know tapered was kind of the old tradition but that's it. Any input would be appreciated.

RonL

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Up here in north Idaho/eastern Washington, typical 4/4 black walnut goes for a bit over $7/bf, retail - higher for greater thickness. Not sure how that compares to English walnut, though, but I can't imagine it would be any cheaper....

I tried one after asking around. I liked it enough that I bought 3 more for the shop (one for each of the turners in the family).

Be sure to get the high-impact version. Your link seems to be to the right one. When you eventually replace the transparent part (CA glue doesn't come off and they do get scratched up), be sure to get the high-impact replacement then, too.

Also, Windex is not a good cleanser for it. The Windex gets in behind the clear plastic in the mount at the bottom and takes a long time to evaporate. The clear part of my first one cracked (embrittled from the ammonia is my guess) after a lot of Windex cleanings.

The Uvex shield is very adjustable and seems to be less prone to fogging for many of us. Mine is set up for maximum distance away from the face for prescription eye glass clearance. That seems to help with the fogging as well.

The rest of the family seem to find them comfortable as well.

I have that problem but its the bottom pulley.

....and it sheared the key, pulley turned slightly.....and magled the key in the slot....so you cant get the pulley off. Used a puller...its on there.

So I need to bust the pulley off, and replace.

Its been 2 years and I keep hearing, its coming on a boat. I am starting to get to the point where they need to go take one off a shop floor machine..... I guess I could get any replacement pulley....I mean its not rocket science. But it works so I wont upset that house of cards.

The noise is annoying.

Thanks Arlin, great video.

Mel